Today's breakfast arrangement was a bit different than what I have seen before. Already in the fridge yesterday were three slices of cheese, four slices of ham, milk, yogourt, instant coffee, and some tea bags. This morning along came the owner shortly before 8 am to drop off two fresh and still warm Portuguese rolls, and a still warm sweet croissant.
I ate til I was full, gathered the rest, packed the bike, then rolled back down to the Sabor Ecopista. I saw the primary school again and when I saw a worker coming from the nearby seniors' residence I asked if the school was still operational - with a sad face she said it was but there were only two students. She pointed to the seniors' residence and said they are all who are in town now. My heart broke a bit.
Though I started out a bit morose, as I cycled the greenway I was continually amazed by its beauty. Some sections were packed dirt, a few spots had soft sand, but most of it was either chipped limestone or packed sand. The route climbed a bit around a big mountain and as it did there were spectacular views down into valleys below. The old rail line cut through sandy berms, craggy rocky cuts and through groves of huge pine trees. Interestingly, many of the pine trees' sap was being harvested into plastic bags that were affixed to the trunks of the trees. Apparently the sap is medicinal.
Setting out this morning it looked like everyone in the air wanted to catch a glimpse of the region's beauty. -- Carviçais, Portugal
A closer view of the flowering shrub that I showed in a photo yesterday. The colour is simply brilliant in the morning sunshine. -- Carviçais, Portugal
Curve after curve along the Linha do Sabor had yet another stunning view of rock cuts, groves of trees or views into valleys of olives, almonds, and cherries. -- Along the Linha do Sabor, Portugal
Dotted along the route every few kilometres were the former whistle stop train stations. I'm not sure if people actually lived in the areas around them or if this was for dropping off and picking up workers in the fields or iron mines. Either way they were small but quite attractive though in various stages of decay or maintained for their historical significance.
These tiny little stations dotted the route along the Linha do Sabor. They were usually split into three sections, one of which had a fireplace/chimney, and the other for maybe an office and a waiting room? -- Souto da Velha, Portugal
Curve after curve along the Linha do Sabor had yet another stunning view of rock cuts, groves of trees or views into valleys of olives, almonds, and cherries. -- Along the Linha do Sabor, Portugal
In these groves of pines there were quite a few of these thick plastic bags affixed to the threes where there were grooves cut into the bark so the thick gooys sap could be gathered, apparently for medicine. -- Along the Linha do Sabor, Portugal
Curve after curve along the Linha do Sabor had yet another stunning view of rock cuts, groves of trees or views into valleys of olives, almonds, and cherries. -- Along the Linha do Sabor, Portugal
Kelly IniguezThis is the first dirt road that I've noticed on your route. Have there been others? What made the decision to take this one. It looks like good quality riding. Reply to this comment 11 months ago
Brent IrvineTo Kelly IniguezThis is the Linha do Sabor ecopista/greenway. It is a former railbed that winds its way from Duas Igrejas to Pocinho though about a third of it is not rideable in the centre portion, yet. A friend of mine told me about this route so it is the big reason I came specifically here to cycle. It was fabulous. Reply to this comment 11 months ago
Brent IrvineTo Brent IrvineI took a few other dirt roads kind of on a whim and I have not regretted it. This being said, if there had been any rain I would have avoided them - not wanting to be covered with wet sand or mud. Reply to this comment 11 months ago
Curve after curve along the Linha do Sabor had yet another stunning view of rock cuts, groves of trees or views into valleys of olives, almonds, and cherries. -- Along the Linha do Sabor, Portugal
Curve after curve along the Linha do Sabor had yet another stunning view of rock cuts, groves of trees or views into valleys of olives, almonds, and cherries. -- Along the Linha do Sabor, Portugal
From the back of that one mountain for another 26 km to the end of the Sabor line the route was a non-stop coasting downhill ride. No pedal stroke at all, though I kept shifting positions to rest my arms or sit down muscles.
All told this was so beautiful that sometimes I wanted to literally laugh, and sometimes almost cry due to the sheer beauty of it all. Non stop incredible beauty. Gradually the route went through some slightly larger towns to some fairly large ones and the terrain went from less cultivated to more groves of cherry, olive, almond and grape. Eventually more terraced hills were present, too.
Of course, as I approached the end of the Sabor at Pocinho, it meant I was approaching the Douro valley. Sure enough, as soon as I saw the river, right away there were two river cruise ships chugging along. Doing it the easy way!
Approaching the western terminus of the Sabor I met up with other modes of transportation - namely water and road. Those small cruise ships carry passengers along the river to experience the beauty of the Douro valley. In the distance is Pocinho where the Sabor ends and the still-existing rail line from Porto carries passengers along the Douro. -- Pocinho, Portugal
A closer view of one of the tourist ships that ply the Douro from my vantage point of the Sabor ecopista - an amazing route that has held me spellbound for its entirety. -- Pocinho, Portugal
Looking back along my Sabor ecopista as I am about to reach its end. What a beautiful rail trip it must have been in its day. I can only imagine, and I hope that some day it is restored so people can explore this amazing part of Portugal. -- Along the Linha do Sabor, Portugal
I was able to coast right to the end of the rideable ecopista which ended at a the bridge across the Douro which the train used to arrive to the Pocinho train station. This station is still in use, but for the trains between Pocinho and Porto. Under the deck for the train is a closed vehicular and pedestrian section. It was fenced off to prevent any further crossings though my GPS routing did not know this, and I found that the fences set up to bar access to the bridge had been cut so I am sure some people still cross this way either to save time or if they are dreaming of how it once must have been to cross on this very attractive steel bridge.
The end of the rideable Sabor greenway. In front of my bike is the bridge that used to carry the train across the Douro and into Pocinho station. Under the rail deck is a currently-unused road for vehicles and walkways for pedestrians. The fence is peeled back a bit where I'm sure some people slip through to imagine the joy of how it must once have been to cross here. -- Pocinho, Portugal
This is one of the little Sabor engines that used to make that 26 km climb (and descent) and travel all the way to Duas Igrejas along what would have been a beautiful rail line. -- Pocinho, Portugal
I knew I had a bit of a climb ahead so I rolled around the town a wee bit but then headed south toward my destination. Let's just say that some of that glorious downhill that I had enjoyed earlier on had a piper to be paid. There was a non-stop climb for the 11 km to Foz Côa. Fortunately this did not come as a surprise as I knew it was there. And the views of the terraces below and across the valley were breathtakingly beautiful.
After coasting for 26 km and dreaming all things railway, once I reached Pocinho, it was time to put my mind (and legs and lungs and arms and sit muscles and brain) back into serisous climbing mode. There was an eleven kilometre climb from Pocinho to my accommodation. -- Pocinho, Portugal
After all that climbing I was finally here. But rather than flop onto a bed and have a much-needed nap, I headed into town for lunch. -- Vila Nova da Foz Côa, Portugal
Just as I was getting pooped I had arrived to my lodging for the night. I was able to check in but decided to keep all of my gear for the time being and head into the old town to O Gato for some fish, potatoes and Sumol. I told the owner that I was a repeat customer and he seemed quite pleased that I had returned.
All fed up, I wound though the old streets of the centre and stopped at an old-style grocery store to pick up some pear juice and a Milka (surprise!). As I came out of the store there I noticed a couple getting off of their road bikes and sitting at a cafe across the street. I chatted with them a bit. They are from the UK, agree that Brexit was more than most Brits expected, and are enjoying spending half of their year in Portugal (retired). They are staying in Marialva which I remember seeing in some youtube videos.
The restaurant formerly known as O Gato is still here. Though with a new name (I forget at the moment but will hopefully remember to update this blog) the owner is the same. -- Vila Nova da Foz Côa, Portugal
Now fed up (this goes many years back to Mr T), warm and a bit tired, I decided it was time to come back to my lodging, store the bike downstairs and come up to my room for a rest. A walk can be done later on, but this cyclist needed a nap.
Now that it is evening time, the wind has come up, the air feels fresher and the light looks really warm and evening-glowish. Possibly time for some APs.
From the balcony of the lodging down into the valley through which I climbed this afternoon. Note the almond trees everywhere. -- Vila Nova da Foz Côa, Portugal
This region is known for its groves of almonds. They have this green fuzz on them and qre quite pretty on the trees. They won't be ripe until June. -- Vila Nova da Foz Côa, Portugal
The back yard of the lodging including the grown in amphitheatre. And the terraced hills looking in the background. I have to climb them there hills tomorrow. -- Vila Nova da Foz Côa, Portugal
The place I am staying is at the edge of town so I took an evening stroll to seek out some APs along the stone walled roads. -- Vila Nova da Foz Côa, Portugal
From my walk I could peer through the almond groves and across the fields to town where I had had my lunch earlier in the day. -- Vila Nova da Foz Côa, Portugal
From my walk I could peer through the almond groves and across the fields to town where I had had my lunch earlier in the day. -- Vila Nova da Foz Côa, Portugal
I turned around at the old abandoned hotel build. This has been sitting here for years untouched. I'm not sure if they ran out of money or if something else happened. -- Vila Nova da Foz Côa, Portugal
