In Mâcon: the ride to Cluny

May 14, 2022

The bike trail between Mâcon and Cluny is excellent and well posted the entire way - one of the nicest we’ve ridden, if not quite as dramatic as some. It gets off to an awkward start though when we come to a short stretch that is controlled by swivel gates at each end to keep out those pesky motorized vehicles. It’s a tight fit for even our short Bike Fridays, and Rachael is temporarily trapped. After she escapes, she sees a sign posted by it that indicates it’s for walkers and wheel chairs and wonders if we don’t belong here.

She’s right, as we discover at the other end. Right next to the gate is a gap you can push your bike right through, which is much easier. If we’d been paying heed we’d have seen this too, as there’s a bicycle indicator directly above it.

Hmm. We’re off to a late start today, so maybe the morning coffee has worn off already.

Which reminds us that we’ve seen this before, on a bike path in Osaka fifteen years ago:

Rachael is stymied by this curious barrier on the cycle path along the Yoda. The small gate to the side is designed for bicycles to wheel through, but not for ones with low-slung panniers. After a few miles of stopping and lifting them over she tried this alternative, to no avail.

Rachael is feeling overdue for a day off the bike and had mapped out a hike she planned to take today while I went off to find a hill. I told her she should reconsider though and save the hike for another day because the bike path to Cluny has such a good reputation. Fortunately it lived up to it and we enjoyed a wonderful relaxed day. Not quite a rest day, but not far off either.

It’s obviously a popular ride, and we’re passing or being passed by bikers all day long - many of them loaded down for a tour, but also many families out for a Saturday day ride. It’s especially surprising how many youngsters we see along the trail today.

Leaving Mâcon we come across this interesting procession.

The bike path to Cluny is probably the best route north from Mâcon. It’s not our chosen route on this tour for no obvious reason, but we can at least enjoy it on a day ride.

The view west. A panoboard informs us that we’re looking at the Rock of Solutré. This looks like it would be a fine region for a series of day rides.

On the Voie Verte, a greenway that lives up to its name.

Looking up at the Berzé-le-Châtel castle, the largest fortress in southern Burgundy. Built between the 11th and 14th centuries, it looks well worth a detour if we come back this way.

Twelve miles into the ride we come to the feature I’ve been most interested in seeing: the Tunnel du Bois Clair. With its 1600 meter length it’s another giant among greenway tunnels, and just a smidgen longer than the one under Le Chat. What interests me the most about it though is that it’s kept closed for half the year to protect a colony of bats that hibernates there in the winter. It’s only been open for the season for a month.

It’s chilly, damp and dark in the tunnel, which drips a bit. It’s arrow straight and you can barely make out the light at the far end when you first enter. A great tunnel ride, but it’s especially welcome to come out into the sun at the other end. No bats today though that I could see.

Entering the Tunnel du Bois Clair. In spite of the sign, lights aren’t needed today at least. It’s adequately lit for the entire length.

In the Tunnel du Bois Clair. It’s hard to pick out in this photo, but the exit is visible as a pinprick of light a mile in the distance.

The ride has been very gentle up to this point, generally rising at such a modest grade that we hardly notice it. That changes as soon as we emerge from the other end of the tunnel though and are staring up a steep slope filled with bikers of all ages and skill levels careening down toward us. We hug the rail until they pass and then shift down and labor up. The next half mile is a challenging up and down affair but then the trail settles out for the last few miles into Cluny. Surprisingly we’re still seeing families with young children along this difficult stretch.

When we arrive in Cluny though we see why. A crowd of family cyclists are congregated along the path outside the train station. It looks like some sort of weekend challenge event is on, and folks are apparently waiting here for the train to arrive and take them back to their starting point. What a great family adventure!

It’s a bit of a challenge for us as well, as we run the gauntlet through this crowd and contend with future Tour de France participants swarming around us.

Cluny is an impressive place and immediately appealing. The streets are crowded when we arrive - the Saturday morning market is just breaking up - and everywhere we look is interesting. It’s obviously worth a much longer visit than the brief look we give it today. we didn’t even make it inside its most famous feature, the Benedictine abbey. If we make it back to Burgundy I’m sure we’d stay in Cluny a few nights and explore it when it’s less crowded.

As obviously attractive as Cluny itself is though, I imagine we’ll remember it best for an encounter we had with a couple from France who struck up a conversation with us while we were sitting on neighboring benches in the shade beneath the Notre Dame Church. I’d noticed the man, Eric, looking over his shoulder at our bikes from time to time and then turning to talk with his partner. As we stood up to leave, Delphina approached us with questions from her husband or boyfriend, who apparently doesn’t speak English. We enjoyed a delightful conversation as they asked about our bikes, our journey, and our lifestyle. They’re from Paris, and on hearing that we’ll be there in just a few weeks Delphina offered to be a resource when we arrive. She noted our phone number and the address to the blog, so perhaps we’ll hear back. In any case, today’s visit was a real highlight of an already fine day.

Saint Marcel’s Church, the oldest parish church in Cluny still standing. It dates from the 1100’s, although the bell tower was added in the 16th century.

The memorial commemorating the events of August 11th, 1944: the Battle of Bois Clair (the valley where the tunnel is located) between the Germans and Resistance fighters, and the subsequent bombing of Cluny.

The facade of 13th century Notre-Dame Church.

The modern stained glass windows in Notre Dame Church.

In Cluny, a town worth a much longer visit.

The ride back to Mâcon was as pleasant as the ride out; and once we were past those steep pitches on this side of the tunnel it was largely downhill. We were back at our room before four, and settled in to relax until dinner.

Video sound track: The Game of Love, by Santana

We already liked the Concorde Hotel, but they iced the deal when they asked if I’d like a cold drink after our hot ride.

We left for our seven o’clock reservation at the Maison de Bois a few minutes early so we could wander the streets on the way down. We arrived at just a few minutes past seven and were shown to a table on the plaza where we were among the first seated. Somehow though our overworked server kept missing our table and taking orders from other tables around us. At 7:35 we still hadn’t even been served water, but it was very pleasant sitting outside and enjoying the crowd. Finally we got her attention and placed our orders. I’m sure she realized her error because our meals came out quite quickly after that.

They don’t build post offices like this any more.

Flower Moon over Mâcon. A day early, but close enough.

Heart

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Ride stats today: 36 miles, 1,800’; for the tour: 1,784 miles, 90,500’

Today's ride: 36 miles (58 km)
Total: 1,784 miles (2,871 km)

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Suzanne GibsonLove that video with the kids passing on both sides and then cutting right in front of Scott!

Hey, why am I sitting in front of the screen and not packing?
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1 year ago

Scott AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonGood question! Don’t be late!
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1 year ago

Jacquie GaudetYour ride today makes me want to dig out my scrapbook of our 1992 ride. I know we went to Cluny and we camped in Macon—then took a slow train south to Avignon to escape the rain.
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1 year ago