In Portoferraio: Western Elba

October 28, 2021

Rachael and I are enjoying our first cup of coffee when we look up and decide we should step on the balcony for a minute to watch developments. They’re worth stepping outside for.

Really, Napoleon had nothing to complain about here that I can see. If I were going to be exiled somewhere, Elba seems like it would be an excellent choice. In fact, how about right now? Somebody exile me, please!

The view east this morning. Low above our heads gulls are noisily swooping around and landing on the roof above.

The hike to Monte Enfola

We’re specializing again today. Rachael takes responsibility for the hiking department and I’ll rack up some biking miles for the team. We leave the building together and Rachael starts walking east toward the waterfront while I’m loading a few things under the cargo net. A minute later she’s back, still staring at her Garmin and getting oriented, and then we both head west instead.

Unsurprisingly, Rocky has found a very ambitious hike for her day’s outing - a thirteen mile out and back to Monte Enfola. About half of it is on paved streets and roads, but once she gets there the hike on conical Monte Enfola is a rough trail that switchbacks up to the summit and gives her great views of the coast. She has some navigational challenges there, comparing it to our experience on our hike from Cuneo but without the chestnuts, and doesn’t make it back to the room until nearly four - not that much earlier than my own return.

The walk to Monte Enfola, the conical shape straight ahead.

On Monte Enfola, looking back at the narrow isthmus she crossed getting here.

The slopes are covered with maquis, the same sort of scrub that you see all over Corsica. I’m sure it’s intensely colorful earlier in the year.

The view west, looking across the north end of the island. Here I think she’s looking across the Gulf of Procchio.

For another perspective on her hike, here’s a photo I took looking back from the opposite side of the Gulf of Procchio. Monte Enfola is the limpet-shaped lump at the end of that long peninsula, and Portoferraio where she began her hike is out of sight to the right.

The western end of Elba

Portoferraio is on the north side of the island, at roughly the midpoint. The island is large and its roads hilly and convoluted enough that it’s a respectable day’s ride looping it in either direction. Today I’m off to see the west end on a loop that promises to be one of the most challenging rides of the whole tour.

It takes about two miles to work my way out of Portoferraio and its outer neighborhoods. The road close in to town is busier than I’d expected, but traffic dies down quickly after that; and about five miles into the day it drops down to almost nothing. For the bulk of the ride I’m biking up slopes and along the stunning western coast of the island on virtually empty roads through a landscape that reminds me of nothing so much as northern Corsica.

My Garmin registers eight climbs ahead today, adding up to around 4,500 feet of climbing. The first one is fairly minor, rising 500’ over a low saddle before dropping down to the coast at the seaside resort village of Procchio. It’s enough of a climb though to cause me to shed my outer layer halfway to the summit and to reward me with a fine view across the Gulf of Procchio from the top.

The view west across the Gulf of Procchio.

In the short story of the day in a pattern that will be repeated several times, I lose everything gained so far by dropping down to the shoreline at Procchio. From there I stay at a relatively low elevation as the road skirts the wide bay, and then look up at Marciana perched 1,400’ above at the high point for the day.

With no disrespect to the majestic Ponderosa pines back home, I think the graceful umbrella pines of Italy are even more beautiful.

And looking up at Marciana. My route switchbacks it’s way up there before crossing over the saddle to its right.

Its a roughly four mile climb to Marciana, rising at a steady, manageable grade of around 8%. It’s a satisfying climb - I’m feeling strong, biking without the burden of panniers. I’ve been looking forward to seeing Marciana, which our host Alexandro said was extremely beautiful and maybe the best village on the island. First though I come to Poggio, a smaller village about a hundred feet below it.

I spent fifteen or twenty minutes poking around Poggio, a charming place that again reminds me of the villages in northern Corsica.

Not a difficult climb, but some work is required.

The view down from Poggio to Marciana Marina, the port town.

Leaving Poggio I begin to be concerned about the time. It’s after one, I’ve been averaging about seven miles an hour so far, and I’ve still got more than 25 miles to go. It’s starting to get dark by six, and I don’t want to get caught out on a lonely mountain road too late in the day. I bike through Marciana with hardly taking a glance, crest the summit shortly after, and then begin the long, gradual descent seaward down the western slope of the island. From there the road closely follows the shoreline, with striking views around every bend. Across the water is the hazy outline of northern Corsica. I understand that you can see south to Sardinia on a clear day also, but it is a bit too hazy for that today.

Patresi, with the outline of Corsica in the distance.

The empty road around the west end of the island is spectacular.

Chiessi has the look of a Greek white town.

The southern slopes of the island are drier, covered with prickly pear.

The outstanding ride continues until I more or less return to civilization at Marina di Campo, one of the larger settlements on the more sparsely populated southern coastline. With all but two of the eight climbs behind me I’m feeling good about myself and the time of the day when I summit what looks like the worst of the last two, an eight hundred foot climb over the high headland between Marina di Campo and Lacona. It’s a steady 9-10% ascent, and by the top it feels like it’s finally time to stop for a belated lunch. Sitting on a rock by the side of the road overlooking the southern coast I devour the hearty pile of cheese, figs, and hazelnuts I’d packed for myself this morning and consider whether it’s worth the work to find a spot for the camera for a self portrait before lazily concluding it’s not.

The view east along the southern coastline from the penultimate summit of the day.

The ride ends with one final surprise - it’s been saving the worst for last. I should have looked more closely at the ride profile and mentally prepared myself, but this final climb catches me by surprise, topping out with a full half mile at 14-16%. I seriously considered dismounting and pushing, but a half mile was farther than I wanted to walk so I kept going, and going, and going.

Over the top, the road drops down just as steeply off the north side. I get a few partial glimpses through the canopy to the peninsula off the end of Portoferraio, and finally there’s a wide enough opening for a good shot. It’s the only spot.

Portoferraio and it’s castle. In the distance is the mainland and the port town Piombino, or maybe San Vincenzo.

It takes us awhile to find an appealing restaurant for this evening - it looks like the town is starting to shut down a bit from the end of high season - but we do find one that works for us well enough to celebrate with a half bottle of Elba Rossi.

We’re nearing the end of the greater tour: five months, and 5,000 miles!

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Patrick O'HaraThat profile deserves a good meal. Really enjoyed today's adventure. Thanks for sharing.
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Patrick O'HaraPretty great day, alright. I’m so glad to have made it out to the west end. With another day of good weather I’d ride it again, but we’re really lucky to have seen as much of it as we have.
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2 years ago

Ride stats today: 44 miles, 4,500’; for the tour: 2,536 miles, 92,500‘

Today's ride: 44 miles (71 km)
Total: 2,536 miles (4,081 km)

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