The weather is fine again today, probably the last of a string of perfect cycling days that greeted our arrival. Tomorrow looks like rain, so we may sit it out and explore the city on foot. Today though, we ride.
There are endless riding opportunities here, with bike routes radiating out in all directions and branching along every river, stream and canal that you cross. If you don’t get tired of utterly flat riding on tame bike paths, you could use Antwerp as a quite lengthy base for a cycling holiday. And if you wanted to stretch your horizon you could easily hop a train to somewhere further afield and bike home again.
Today’s loop heads south up the left bank of the Scheldt, the broad, slow moving river that splits the city. First though we take a detour north for a couple of miles to see the Havenhuis (the Port House), the striking new building for the Port Authority opened for business just five years ago. And, since we’re in Antwerp, there are other can’t-miss reasons to stop along the way. It takes us the better part of an hour to complete the short five mile loop that brings us back to the Kennedy Tunnel for the crossing to the left bank of the Scheldt.
Saint James Church, begun in 1491. Before then it was a chapel on the route to Compostela. It is the burial site for Peter Paul Rubens, the Flemish painter.
The Mexico bridges, a pair of rolling lift bridges crossing a channel in the north port area. The right bridge carries trams, and the left motor vehicles.
The Port House is a dazzling, extravagant construction. Reading up on it, I was surprised to learn of what a significant port Antwerp is. It is Europe's second largest shipping port by traffic, handling 26% of Europe's container shipping.
It’s fascinating to look up at the gigantic diamond-shaped structure crowning the Port House. It’s various surfaces reflect the sky, the sea, the cobblestones below, and whatever riff-raff is passing by.
The flags of the Port House. The one on the left honors Antwerp Pride Week, which is occurring now. There are Pride banners and colors everywhere you look about town now.
Finally we make our way back to the Kennedy Tunnel, and queue up behind the eight other bikers already waiting. Once again we consider but reject the urge to save time by trotting down the stairs.
Once on the left bank we follow the Scheldt upriver to its first bridge, about eight miles further inland. We pass through a few small towns but for most of the way we’re riding up on top of the dike about 20 feet above the river and the polder on the other side the dike protects from flooding. It’s a delightful trail, and heavily trafficked by cyclists and walkers out enjoying the holiday weekend. As we bike further away from the city the blend of traffic changes and eventually becomes primarily more serious bikers, helmeted, sporting colorful cycling clothing, and moving at a brisk clip.
Looking across the Scheldt to the more industrial right bank. We’re standing above a gate, presumably here to release water from the river into the polder to control flooding. We crossed these regularly as we continued upriver.
We’re riding as far upriver as the first bridge, but shorter loops are possible by crossing on one of the ferries. I understand that bicycles ride free, but I’m not certain on that.
On the dike. This is an interesting section, with cobblestones bordered by narrow paved strips - too narrow to pass someone, so you intermittently have to hop onto the cobbles to pass a slower walker or rider.
At Temse we come to the bridge and finally cross over the Scheldt. Once across, we reverse direction and follow the Scheldt up its right bank until its confluence with the Rupel.
This monumental statue at the entrance to the Temse Bridge looks like the perfect spot for GBO’s look at Belgium. He decides to hop up for a closer, more intimate look.
Scott AndersonTo Jen RahnIt’s not the foot he’s noticing. He’s got a bit of a boob fixation unfortunately. It’s all that time he spent hanging around Ron, I imagine. Reply to this comment 2 years ago
Leaving the Scheldt we bike east for several miles along the left bank of the Rupel, another appealing cycling route. Here and there the banks are lined with cargo ships queued up at loading docks. At one point we cross a bridge atop the gate controlling inflow from a smaller stream merging in. I stop at the top to take an upstream photograph, when suddenly an alarm bell sounds. Startled, I hurriedly move on thinking the bridge is about to open, wondering if Rachael and I are about to be separated by it. I move off to the other side, stop again to wait for Rachael, but then the alarm sounds again. I look up and see a man up in the control tower, gesturing to me to keep moving ASAP. Apparently there is to be no loitering atop the bridge.
After about eight miles we cross the Dyle River on a stylish and congested blue bicycle bridge, and then continue upriver, now along the Nete - the river we also biked along on our first outing from Antwerp. A few more miles we come to Duffel, cross the Nete, and bike back to Antwerp along the F1 bike highway.
A second blue bicycle bridge, with the same structure as the one we just crossed over the Dyle. This one crosses the Nete, but we turn right here staying on this side of the river for a few miles more.
Entering Antwerp, along the rail line leading to the central station. This last half mile is quite striking. Notice the ornamental drainage downspouts from the elevated rail platform. Each column has a distinct pattern.
Yesterday evening’s crowds were intense, so we get an earlier start this evening hoping to beat the rush to the restaurants. We at least manage to get seated this time, but our meal at this tourist-oriented spot on the edge of the Grote Markt is unexceptional. The Sunday night crowd is thinned out considerably from last night’s madhouse, but it’s still dense enough - and every central square and plaza is either blanketed in ad hoc booths or throbbing with mass events. We’ve since learned that this is a triple holiday weekend. It’s Pride Week, and the second Mother’s Day of the year, and Ascension Sunday. We look forward to a quieter pace tomorrow, and moving on to smaller towns beyond that.
Rich FrasierOh memories! When you were cycling along the Nete, you were in my old stomping grounds. I worked for 3 years in Sint-Katelijne-Waver and used to ride along the Nete during my lunch hours for training. Thanks for turning over some neurons that haven’t been touched since 1999! Reply to this comment 2 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Rich FrasierYou lived near Duffel! You really have gotten around. What a perfect spot for a lunchtime ride. Reply to this comment 2 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Rachel and Patrick HugensOh, I wish we’d known! We could just as easily have biked there and sent some pics back from his home. Reply to this comment 2 years ago
