Hiking in Jasper: Old Fort Point

July 21, 2018

Back to back rest days!!

Still overcast and rainy today, though not as forbidding as yesterday was. We take our time getting started, walking downtown for breakfast and then coming back to check out the forecast and gauge whether it makes sense to fit a ride in. It doesn’t look that promising, really. It looks like a pretty broken day, with possible brief clearing periods interspersed with rain. What to do?

First, we stall for more time and look again at the plan for the rest of the tour. One thing that has been nagging at us is Ken and Judy’s opinion that we really should get to Revelstoke when we are cycling the Kootenay at the end of the tour. I had wondered about this myself in planning this tour, but didn’t want to set us up for too many long days carrying luggage. We stare at the maps some more and decide to make a change - we alter our three night reservation in Nakusp (where we planned to take two out and back day rides along Arrow Lake). Instead, we’ll embed an overnight to Revelstoke between nights at Nakusp. It will be back to back 65 mile days, but we can leave most of our luggage at the hotel in Nakusp and travel light.

With that momentous decision behind us, we return our attention to today. It’s still lightly misting, and the rest of the day looks wettish. We decide to take another day off the bikes and go for a local hike instead. There are many to chose from, but we decide to just drive to the nearest trailhead across the river and start walking. When we get there, we decide to take the loop to Old Fort Point.

We have a splendid hike, one that in its own way is as fine as the one to Kinney Lake two days back. It’s about a three mile loop to the wonderful viewpoint atop Old Fort Point and back. It climbs steeply at first up the cliff facing the river, starting with a long set of stairs; and from the top it circles gradually down the back side, first through a lovely stand of birches and then through pine/hemlock forest.

Returning to the starting point, and encouraged by the surprisingly improving weather, we take a second loop in the opposite direction, along the bank of the Athabasca River and the edge of Beauvert Lake. Altogether, we put in about six miles, with a fair amount of climbing and descent. At the end, my knees are bothering me a bit, but it’s not too bad. This is the second such hike I’ve taken in three days, and I’m feeling encouraged. I think my knees are benefiting from the regular exercise and the mix of walking and biking.

The hike offered some stellar scenery, even on an overcast, damp day. What impressed me especially though was the color and diversity - we were spotting new plants and micro-habitats all day long, it seemed; as well as loons, mergansers, warblers, and - ta da! - bighorn sheep. On the back side of the Old Fort Point loop it seemed like mushrooms were exploding out of the ground everywhere we looked.We’re quickly growing to love this region. It feels like a place we’d be happy to visit again and again.

So, no biking today - just your basic photo dump, to help us remember.

Baby animals are so endearing. This magpie is too young to fly well - note how short it’s tailfeathers are still. He’s getting the hang of it though - when he first tried to fly up to the top of this fence he crashed about halfway up; but the second time he barely made it.

The rocks facing the Athabaska below Old Fort Point are so striking - as they are so many places up here. It’s a geologist’s paradise.

Starting the steep climb up to Old Fort Point

The evergreen forests around Jasper are under severe attack by the mountain pine beetle. Besides being a tragedy for the forests, it’s a safety concern - the town is growing worried about the risk of wildfires.

The Athabasca River, and the beginning of the Icefield Parkway. It must be really amazing up here in a clearer day.

We were here too. This too is amazing - two photos of us in the same week that we both like.

Blanket flower is common here. The gaps are from dropped bracts - from the photos I’ve seen, the flowers must be complete when they first bloom. (Credit: Bill Shaneyfelt)

I’m not sure what this peak to the west is - Marmot Mountain?

Bighorn sheep, and dead victims of the mountain pine beetle

The wood lily is new to me. It reminds me of an avalanche lily. (Credit:Bill Shaneyfelt)

A glacial erratic (I think). This one is about six feet deep.

I don’t think I’ve ever hiked in a place with more prolific and diverse mushrooms.

Bill Shaneyfelt advises us that this is mountain death camas, and we should under no circumstances pop it into our mouth.

Like Bill, I did some time in my youth as an amateur mycologist, and could tell a bolete from an amanita from a russula. I’d harvest them and have them for dinner, which you’ll agree is a pretty bizarre practice for someone with no sense of smell or taste. Thankfully my son and I survived the phase.

I was intrigued by this formation - it looks like there are strips of wood woven into the rock.

Looking north across the Athabaska River. The town of Jasper is just out of the frame to the left.

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