September 5, 2023
September 5th
Danan
Like someone who's been involved in serious violence and doesn't quite know what day it is, the weather in Taiwan seems punch-drunk and unsure what to do. A typhoon recently battered the island, especially in the South and East, but it's since veered off northwards and there's just a residual breeze. It's overcast and maybe today the sun will shine, or then again it could rain some more. It's all up in the air.
One thing for sure is the typhoon has cooled things down nicely and as it's been a month since I went for a spin and my cabin fever needs breaking, I fish out a track pump to get my tyres hard, only to get frustrated the thing won't oblige and after trying in vain with a regular Zefal pump, I give up and pop round to the scooter repair shop and use the air hose. A sign posted to the pillar where the hose is mounted says Fuck The Government.
The narrow, rock-hard Brooks seat that was recently fitted on the bike has since been swapped for a 'Flyer Special' that has springs and, more importanly, is wider and supple. It certainly feels a lot better.
My goal is a pretty humble one - Danan - and the initial route takes me past what you might refer to as ribbon development, but which looks more like a rag. The 114 takes me past roller doors coated in grime and buildings that need decarbonising and after 10 minutes I get to a squat apartment building that's aged prematurely. I took a snap of it not too long ago - at least of one of its rear windows - and this time I include most of the building's north elevation; its distressed cream-coloured paintwork having intrigued Andy Peat. It's a bit disappointing to see the sun-facing front of the building has been tiled not too long ago.
A minute after turning left off the 114, there are five wooden stools stacked outside a building that looks like it's a place people eat in, but i culd be wrong. At least I'd like to think so. A small dog tied to a post barks at me when I stop to take a snap of them, so I opt to keep going and descend down a lane and find myself heading into countryside. An old house that looks empty deserves a closer look and once in its front yard I notice a nice metal mailbox and take a snap of it.
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The farmland is hemmed in by roads that are out of sight and it's quiet here. The route takes me to a shallow river, then follows it downstream. There's a whiff of effluent coming from where it cascades down small wiers.
Once at the main road at the end, I head along for a few minutes with cars, then make a right and wind through a small industrial area, with steel-sheeted factories producing who knows what. A few people zip by on scooters, likely on their way to work or home or the shops, seemingly eager to be anywhere but here.
A scrap metal yard looks like it might have an old window grill, so I decide to take a quick look inside. Who I guess is the owner is sat on a low stool eating from a cardboard lunchbox. He's a man of few words, none of which are in English, and he gestures for me to go to the office, where a women in her 40s does understand me, but she says they don't have such things and is clearly finding it hard to understand why I would want one. She calls me teacher, but would likely say weirdo if her vocabulary was better.
Once in Danan, I make my way through its traditional market and pop into the charity shop and find a new, turquoise XL shirt made of cotton with a label that includes the word Italy, but which no doubt was made in China. It's only NT$50 - less than US$2 - so I buy it and cruise around the corner to Louisa Coffee. It's gone 12:30 and I order a toasted tuna sandwich. I've brought along a novel and that gets read for 20 minutes or so.
Last time I cycled back along a completely different route, one which was hectic, but today I keep it simple and retrace my tracks, back though the edge of the market, which is a bit dead at this time. No doubt all the action takes place in the morning.
The nearby park triggers a flashback to lockdown, as I used to get my coffee to go and sit on a bench among the trees and drink it. There are a few men here today, as usual, looking like they have too much time on their hands. There are no women around.
In the end I decide to keep to the main road instead of veering back through the industrial area. It's a tight and busy road that makes for stressful riding, but it only lasts for about 10 minutes, then I get to the river and ride past small fields and rows of long polytunnels before making my way up the lane that slopes just enough to make it feel like a proper workout.
The wooden stools are still stacked there, but the small, yapping dog has gone, so I take a snap which doesn't look like it'll make the cover of National Geographic. At least it records the spots of rain that have begun to fall - something which actually began a few minutes ago. It's not serious and doesn't look like it's going to become so. Besides, sweat has already dampened my top and in another 15 minutes I'll be back home.
Today's ride: 22 km (14 miles)
Total: 3,210 km (1,993 miles)
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