June 25, 2025
To Sainte-Marie de Campan
Col de La Hourquette d'Ancizan
Today was a big day, one filled with joy, grit, sweat and more joy.
The day started with sunshine and blue skies, and predictions for a return to temperatures in the low 90s. I wanted to get an early start but was constrained a bit by the 8 am breakfast and 8:30 check-out times at the hotel. It was just past nine when I rolled through the hotel gate and into Arreau center where I was further delayed by meeting two amazing women cyclists – Claire and Bella.
Claire is a Brit in the final stages of a solo tour from Mongolia to London and was spending a couple of days cycling in the Pyrenees with Bella, an Australian now living in Lourdes. They had met several years ago when Claire was touring Australia. We three hit it off famously, exchanging contact info and selfies. They were off to climb Col d’Aspin on the way to Lourdes so I left them at the bike café with hopes that we might stay in touch. And then I immediately got turned around and fumbled my way out of town.
Just getting to the start of the La Hourquette d'Ancizan took some work and after the climb through Ancizan I found myself taking a rest stop before the climb even began!! The official climb started with a 10% bang and then eased to an average grade of 8-9% the next few kilometers, winding up through the woods on a small, almost single-lane road. The shade was welcome, as was the lack of traffic – more bikes than cars, and even fewer motorcycles. Everyone it seemed was over on Col d’Aspin with Claire and Bella.
I took several breaks, longer and more frequent as I neared the summit. My legs were fine but my breathing was not giving me enough energy – Age? Heat? Lingering effects of broken rib/pneumonia? Likely each played a role. But I kept pedaling, very thankful I’d taken the decision to ride unloaded.
I was just over a kilometer from the top when David passed me in his van and pulled over. He’d been tied up with a client earlier that morning and we'd agreed to meet on the road so I could pay him, something which he preferred done in person. He is a very affable fellow, offering to give me and Vivien George a lift to the top in the van. Of course I declined, and he was quite willing to wait for me – no matter how long it took. As I crested the col, there he was, with his camera pointed my way to document my arrival at the summit. I’d made it!
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The summit opens up onto an expanse of high, lush meadows encircled by peaks – it had me spinning and catching what little breath I had left. I lingered there a long while, chatting up David, watching a team of young hot shots spurt to the summit, offering to take photos of other solo riders. But mostly I just sat and took it all in, marveling at where I was and pondering the steps in life that had brought me to such a magnificent place. Climbing up mountains under one’s own power is not easy, for anyone – chapeau to all who have ever done so.
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Clouds were rolling in and Sophia, a solo rider from Freiberg remarked that storms were predicted for the afternoon. Time to head down. The road from the summit wound down through the open meadows where livestock roam free. Most CBers passing through here have encountered cows, horses, donkeys and even a sheep drive during their descent. I was really looking forward to some livestock face time but they were all lolling about in the meadows, leaving me only a poop splattered road as consolation.
About 2 miles from the top, the descent is interrupted by half-mile climb before continuing its long descent through mostly woodlands to Payolle. It’d started raining just as I was entering the wooded section, a light but pelting rain. I’d packed only my Houdini jacket but it did the trick as the rain was short-lived and the sun was out by the time I reached Payolle.
The German rider Sophia had passed me on the way down but I caught her in Payolle where the Hourquette D113 road joins D918 as the latter climbs up to Col d’Aspin. We were both in need of water – she because she was headed up Col d’Aspin, and me because I get nervous when my water gets low. Finding nothing open, Sophia suggested we check the nearby campground. Good call – there was a water spigot just waiting for us. We filled our bottles and headed our separate ways.
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The final downhill miles to Sainte-Marie de Campan on D918 were a delight. I pulled into the small village at just after 2 pm, too late for a restaurant meal and too early for my 4 pm check-in. However, the restaurant directed me to a pizza place around the corner. Veggie pizza and Schwepps - just the ticket for this tired and hungry soul.
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Today's ride: 22 miles (35 km)
Total: 948 miles (1,526 km)
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And you are getting closer to my favourite, Col d’Aubisque. I hope you get to ride it!
2 days ago
On your concern about effort and breathing while climbing, check out the effects of altitude on effort. I was told that above 1000 meters there's about a 5% reduction in the power you can generate, due to the thinner oxygen. At 2000 meters, it's 15%. That's a significant impact on performance.
Every body is different, but mine is very responsive to changes in altitude. In a bad way. My heart rate goes up and I feel like I can't catch my breath. My legs generally feel OK, but I can't generate the power I normally can near sea level. Maybe you were feeling something like that.
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I did a double take on the photo of Bella, recognising her hair immediately. I watched an excellent YouTube trip report she did on her journey from Ireland to the Pyrenees some time ago. I found it when we were researching our ride to the Pyrenees. We did exchange a message and she was super helpful. She would be a great person to stay in contact with.
Excited that you're travelling on the French side of the Pyrenees, we loved our trip last year on the Spanish side, so keen to do this side too. As Jacquie has noted, the mountains do become addictive.
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