To Saint-Germain-du-Bois

May 9, 2025

My day off in Beaune was not only for sightseeing but also to assess my general fitness - could I continue the journey by bike or should I choose the train option for part or all of the remaining miles. I was feeling good and so today I hopped on Vivien George and began the next stage in my journey to Annecy, located about 150 auto miles from Beaune, depending on your route.

Likewise, there are a number options for getting to Annecy by bike. The most well-traveled/logical cycle route would be to make my way to Chalon-sur-Saône and travel south on the Via Rhona before turning east to Annecy, at Macon for example. But I’d traveled that route in 2018, albeit in reverse, and wanted to forge new paths in France. So I planned a track that would take me southeast from Beaune and across the Rhone before turning south to Lagnieu and circling northeast to Annecy. Today’s destination was Saint-Germain-du-Bois, about 40 miles on small, flat roads of the Rhone valley.

The weather continued to be sunny but chilly – I was amazed looking back at pictures of our CB tour in mid-May, 2022 that we were dining outside in short sleeved shirts. But not this year, at least not yet. So I layered up and left Beaune, heading for the Rhone River. The landscape was indeed flat – fields of barley and maturing rapeseed interspersed with rows of emerging corn and beans. It was easy and care-free pedaling, one where the mind both wandered and stayed alert.

Aside from a few cows and horses, the biggest excitement was stumbling across the Château de Tourelles, a former winery estate dating from the 1600s. The property exchanged many hands over the years and in 1870 Louis Broussard, who was “possessed by the demon of construction,” began a 30 year renovation project with grand and eclectic designs such as installing a Donjon at the corner of the property. In 2020, the property was purchased by a Swede with plans for new renovations.

He was a little agitated, but stopped pacing and snorting long enough for a photo

A peak through the bushes at the turrets of the Château de Tourelles

The Donjon tower - it seemed to also be an apartment, which was confirmed when I found a little history of the Château

The day continued to warm as I passed through a series of small towns and hamlets on the way to the Rhone. Wildflowers were beginning to bloom in the roadside and I spotted my first poppy of the tour. I crossed the Rhone a little north of Écuelles and shortly thereafter found a sunny spot for my picnic lunch. I continued a short way east until crossing the Doubs turning south at Lays-sur-le-Doubs.

Sometimes a tractor passed me on the road, and there was a car or two as well

Trees became more plentiful and I neared the Rhone

Wildflowers in the national colors - France or USA

Crossing the Rhone River - well barricaded against jumpers and photographers

I thought I might have some company for lunch but the group turned north

By the time I got to Pierre-de-Bresse, I was feeling tired and craving something sweet, like a cookie. It wasn’t yet 2pm so I was somewhat hopeful I would find an open bakery. A kind man directed me to one around the corner, and when I found it closed he pointed me to another – apparently the first bakery was on his route to wherever. Alas, the second bakery was also closed. Disappointed, I popped a Clif gel cube in my mouth that gave me renewed energy for the final miles to Saint-Germain-du-Bois.

My heart sank when the second bakery was also closed

Sorry, the bakery was closed and there are no treats. I know you're as disappointed as me

Saint-Germain-du-Bois seems to have fully embraced the concept of Little Free Library

I had not done much advance booking on this trip, other than a little bit of research to identify potential stop-over towns. There were only two options Saint-Germain-du-Bois, the Logis Hostellerie Bressane and a chambre d’hôte. Logis Hotels are part of a group of hotels/restaurants in France and Europe that are independently owned. I’ve stayed in several over the past few years as they are often the only choice in sparsely populated areas, and where the restaurant is a real bonus.

Though generally good, I find the quality of the hotels and restaurants can vary. I wasn’t sure about the Hostellerie Bressane, but the online pictures swayed me. I hit the jackpot - it was my best stay of this tour for sure, and one of the best in a long time. The staff were friendly, helpful and attentive – not minding at all when I locked myself out of the room two times! The restaurant was excellent, fine dining enjoyed by a few guests and a roomful of local residents. Add in a garage for Vivien George and a nice modern room and I was very happy indeed. The perfect ending to a long day on the road.

Logis Hostellerie Bressane - one of my best stays in a long time

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Today's ride: 40 miles (64 km)
Total: 253 miles (407 km)

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Nancy GrahamI would say that a 40 mile day is indicative of you riding your tour ;’-). Nicely done, but keep it low key until you are sure of how the healing is progressing.
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