To/In Bourg-en-Bresse

May 10, 2025 to May 11, 2025

Today’s route continued my southward march, traveling through the Bresse region of France to Bourg-en-Bresse – a city that lives in Grampies train lore. Two features of today’s route caused some concern. At ~42 miles, it was the longest mileage day between Noyers and Annecy. And the entire route was essentially a straight shot south on two moderately-sized departmental roads, which usually have more traffic than I like. Adding to my joy was that southerly winds were predicted to increase as the day progressed. All told, this called for a hearty breakfast and an early start.

Breakfast at Hostellerie Bessane did not disappoint. The kind hostess who checked me in and served me dinner yesterday was ready to take my egg order for breakfast. A simple omelet was my request – what she served was one of those amazing omelets that the French just seem to know how to prepare. Add to that some muesli with yogurt and fresh blueberries and I was ready to tackle the roads of Bresse.

The first miles on D13 were calmer than I expected – most of the traffic was oncoming and as usual in France all the drivers were very respectful. I passed through Saint-Usuge but then lost my way in Louhans, a much bigger town than I expected. It seemed most everyone from the area was in town for Saturday morning shopping. I finally found my way and turned south on D996, a two-laner with cars speeding by in both directions. It was my hope that traffic would thin once we came to the autoroute, but my fears were that it would remain much the same for the next 30 miles to Bourg-en-Bresse.

There was some early traffic, but not bad

This farm building shows the patterned post-and-beam construction filled in with adobe bricks that is typical of of the Bresse region

Roosters have predominated my recent sightings of inanimate avians - something to do with France, I suppose

The legend of D'Artagnan known to many derives from the fictional work of Alexandre Dumas who wrote a series of books about the exploits of the count and the Three Musketeers. However, D’Artagnan was a real person, Charles de Batz de Castelmore, whose his wife Anne-Charlotte Boyer de Chanlecy was born in Sainte-Croix-en-Bresse. The town has really leaned into the D’Artagnan lore and I took a short break to wander through all the Musketeer displays, finding it a great antidote for my traffic anxiety.

Coming into Sainte-Croix-en-Brasse along the Solnan River

Eglise de l’Invention-de-la-Sainte-Croix

The legend of D'Artagnan in Sainte-Croix

The connection between D'Artagnan and Sainte--Croix is through his wife Anne-Charlotte Boyer de Chanlecy, was born and buried here

As I continued south, traffic thinned considerably and the land opened up a bit – a rolling landscape that stretched west to the Jura mountains. The wind picked up and I pushed on, ascending and descending small hills that were like shark’s teeth on my route map. Undulating but not fundulating.

In Marboz, I went into a small Tabac for a cold drink and came out not only with a Schweppes Argum but two four legged friends – an elderly black lab and a young Pit Bull type dog. I took my cold drink up to the church and enjoyed a picnic lunch in the shade of the trees.

Vivien George gets a photo-op in Varennes-Saint-Sauveur

Varennes-Saint-Sauveur - with another example of typical Bresse construction

I retreated to the shade of Église Saint-Martin for my picnic lunch in Marboz

War Memorial in Marboz, at the steps of Église Saint-Martin

When I left town, my new friend Frolie(?) was sunning in the streets of Marboz

Traffic picked up after Marboz and I made few stops over the last ten miles to Bourg-en-Bresse. I had a few navigation hiccups making my way through the city core and was pretty beat when I finally arrived at my hotel, located at the far end of the town by the train station. The area was lacking in open restaurants so I picked up a few items at the nearby market for a stay-home dinner.

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Sunday, May 11

As part of my “slow ride to Annecy” plan I had booked two nights in Bourg-en-Bresse thinking I might welcome another day off after two longish days on the road. In addition to exploring the town, there was a Royal Monastery nearby that seemed worth a visit. The reality was that I had no interest in visiting the town, which seemed a bit tired and dirty when I cycled through it yesterday. Instead, I spent the day doing some chores, catching up and lounging - a very good use of an off day.

Today's ride: 43 miles (69 km)
Total: 296 miles (476 km)

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