To Beaune

May 7, 2025

Today’s destination was Beaune, the birthplace of my cycling love affair. It was in 2009 that I took a three-day self-guided tour through the vineyards around Beaune that ignited my passion for cycle touring. This will be my fourth visit to this special city and the ride today was filled with memories, dreams and reflections – to quote from Carl Jung.

Early touring days around Beaune with my sisters Jeanie (l) and Ann (r). I think the helmet is a dead giveaway to the fact that I hadn't ridden a bike in almost 20 years.

The restaurant at L’Hôtel du Commerce was closed today so breakfast was cobbled together from the bakery (a quiche Lorraine tartlet) and the Tabac (double espresso). On the way back to my room I ran into the other hotel guests, a trio of gentlemen cycling across the width of France – their nine day trip from Brest to Sochaux was to raise money for firefighters.

I was on the road just a few minutes past ten. The sun was out and about, sometimes hiding among the clouds but generally bringing a nice warmth to a day that began in the mid-fifties. For the next ninety minutes I followed the Canal de Bourgogne, traveling the reverse of a route I’d last taken in 2022 with fellow Cycle Blazers Scott, Rachael, Suzanne and Janos. It was our first trip together and one that forged a strong and lasting friendship. Though today's route was not in my original plans, it seemed fitting that my journey to meet up again in Annecy would retrace a part of our first tour together.

The boys from Brest, cycling across France to raise funds for firefighters

Vivien George was ready to go as soon as i got this rooster off her handlebars (and added another to by inanimate avian collection)

I met André on my way out of town, thanking him once again for helping me check-in at the hotel

Starting the day on the Canal de Bourgogne cycleway - the canal itself is still underground

Spotted during a short detour into Vandenesse-en-Auxois. I wonder what book he's reading

Bike and barge just doesn't have as much appeal to me as bike and bike, or bike and hike

Cycling along the Canal de Bourgogne is definitely conducive to memories, dreams and reflections

The smoking chimney reveals today's weather - a little chilly and windy

After twelve miles I reached Le Pont d'Ouche, a memorable spot from one of the craziest days on my first solo tour. I was traveling from Beaune to Pouilly-en-Auxois on a route that took me up and over a somewhat notable hill. On that day in 2018, I followed D18 up the hill and down to Becoup where GoogleMaps routed me down a farm lane that progressively deteriorated until I came to a securely fastened barbwire gate. I had no choice but to go under the gate, across a cow field, and through a farm yard before I reached the Canal de Bourgogne at Le Pont d'Ouche. I caught my breath and eased my anxiety with a relaxing lunch at a lovely port-side bistro, a place where I was hoping to have lunch today. But the restaurant was closed.

All was not lost at Le Pont d'Ouche. I met Christine, a resident of the UK Lakes district who summers here on a barge with her husband and two black labs. After very nice chat, I commandeered one of the bistro’s table and chairs and enjoyed a light lunch in the sun – the remainder of my Beaufort cheese and a pain-au-raisin I’d picked up at the bakery that morning. I just hoped it was enough fuel to get me up that same hill, on pavement this time.

Christine, with Archie looking on from the deck of their barge Sassy

A better look at Archie, he deserves it!

A tough spot to leave, but it was time to tackle the climb

The climb was not too bad, almost 3.5 miles averaging over 5% - RWGPS indicated it topped out at 14% but I don’t recall anything that steep. I took at brief pause at Becoup, remembering the quizzical look on a workman’s face as I sped down the dirt lane.

There was no view at the top, just nice downhill that wasn’t overly steep. I turned off D18 toward Bouilland, a lovely little town near the historic cliffs of the Beaune region. I rolled through Savigny-lès-Beaune, one of the important wine communities of the Côte de Beaune and after a brief pass through some vineyards, I crossed the bridge over the autoroute and made my way to my hotel.

Nearing Becoup on a flattish section of the climb

We're in some pretty fancy wine country now, VG

Église Saint-Cassien de Savigny-lès-Beaune

I decided to splurge for dinner at La Table du Square, a highly-rated restaurant that earned a mention in the Michelin Guide app. When I searched for the location of the restaurant, it seemed oddly familiar. And then the memory neurons started firing I realized that La Table du Square was the site of our Cycle Blaze meet-up three years ago! How appropriate on a day of memories, dreams and reflections.

Susan stops on the way to dinner to take a photo of a nice looking bike in the window

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Today's ride: 28 miles (45 km)
Total: 213 miles (343 km)

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Tricia GrahamBurgandy is such a wonderful place to cycle in. I am do enjoying your journal as I relive our trip last year. You are done so well following your accident
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1 week ago

Rachael AndersonWhat a great day!
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1 week ago

Susan CarpenterTo Tricia GrahamThanks Tricia - Burgundy is one of my favorite areas of France. And I'm so happy that the cycling is going well
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1 week ago

Susan CarpenterTo Rachael AndersonIt was great - and full of great memories of our trip together.
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1 week ago