Hotel Neuhausl in Wildmoos to Werfen, Austria (Aug. 8, 2022) - CentralEurope - CycleBlaze

August 8, 2022

Hotel Neuhausl in Wildmoos to Werfen, Austria (Aug. 8, 2022)

Our route: 

Hotel Neuhausl to Werfen
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We had the good, the bad and the ugly today.

The good (and it was very good): we finally merged onto the Tauernradweg, also known as Eurovelo 7, also known as the Alpe Adria Route, also known as CAAR.  This is the cycle route that connects Salzburg with Grado in Southern Italy by climbing the Alps in Austria and then dropping down into the Fruili region in Italy. When I did my research on climbing over the alps it looked like the most logical choice (other alternatives were Brenner Pass and Fernpass. I haven’t done these other routes and would be curious to hear from someone that has in order to compare.)

Also good: Signage on Tauernradeg was excellent; our only navigation glitch was the result of a user error (Jill). Suddenly there were many cyclists that were touring. About 90 percent had Ortlieb packs, the other 7 percent were Vaude and then 3 percent were whatever. Hardly anyone here looks like they just threw something together on their bike and took off. 

Also good: It was perfect cycling weather: cool with only a little breeze.

Jill happy to have found the Alpe Adria and looking good sporting her new pink jersey.
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Also really good: we stopped in the town of Golling to see the Golling Wasserfall;  it was a great use of 5 euros each.  After a short 10 minute hike to the waterfall you can go on another 20 minutes of stiff uphill to see the waterfall from different angles and some additional great vistas of the gorge.  The falls were impressive and it was a good break. The hike was enough of a hike that I was glad I brought my light hikers rather than my Keen sandals. 

Excuse me. We're going where and we're going to climb what?!!
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Someone put a whole lot of effort into building the infrastructure to visit this wasserfall.
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Also really good: we are staying in Werfen at this little inn called Der Burgblick that looks out across the valley at Hohenwerfen (castle). It is just the kind of place you imagine you want to stay while in Austria. The room is tiny - but nice  -and the view out the window is amazing. We are here two nights because we are planning to go to the Ice Caves tomorrow. Funnily enough, this is the coolest place we have stayed so far and it is about half the cost of what we have been paying elsewhere. You just never know. A number of films have used this castle as a backdrop, including the Sound of Music. (do, re, me scene), Where Eagles Dare (1968 film with Clint Eastwood) and the Man in the High Castle. 

(An alternate point of view from Dave: Although I completely agree with Jill that Der Burblick is by far the best value in a hotel we've enjoyed so far, my vote for the coolest hotel to date is the Neuhausl. The rooms are spacious, the staff welcoming, the wellness floor is complete and the food there was excellent. Granted, although it cost almost twice as much as Der Burblick, I think I would have loved to stay there a couple of nights, if for no other reason than to chill out. As Jill says, you just never know what you're going to get--cue Forrest Gump.)

The castle view from our balcony.
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The bad:  we had a 15oo foot stiff descent to start the day on some super squirmy steep roads which was unpleasant for me.  

Also bad: about an hour into the ride Dave zipped past a right turn that put us onto a busy highway with no shoulder. We had to turn around and scooch across the highway to get back. I was afraid to mount up because I couldn’t see the traffic behind me so wound up walking (uphill) to get back with a bunch of traffic having to go around me. 

And now the ugly:  Dave had a fall about 15 k from Werfen. We had just turned onto the highway (159) and suddenly there was traffic and he lost focus, bumped into a curb and did kind of a slow motion fall onto his side.  He banged his elbow, hip and his back, the latter being the  most bothersome.  We don’t think it’s too big of a deal, but he winces every time he moves, and it may mean I do the Ice Caves by myself and give him a day to hang out.  We shall see.  The bummer is that our little inn does not serve dinner so we have to ride our bikes into town (down and up a 400 foot descent).  (And for those of you who think I am not being a nurturing spouse:  I did offer to ride into town on my own and pick up some take-out and bring it back!) So, we are just evaluating and seeing how it goes. I’m relieved we don’t have to ride tomorrow.

What I learned today:(1) I need to figure out how to use the walk function on my e-bike. (2)  a lot of things suddenly don’t matter when your spouse hurts! (I knew that already, but it is a good reminder).

Today's ride: 35 km (22 miles)
Total: 228 km (142 miles)

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Scott AndersonI’m so sorry to hear about Dave’s fall. Hopefully it won’t amount to more than some temporary aches and pains.
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1 month ago
Tricia GrahamYou ask about those passes. The Alps Adria is absolutely fantastic and well signed all the way to Grado no really difficult parts and lots and lots of interest. Fern Pass too difficult unless you are a mountain biker but you can get a shuttle over the really bad part. The Rosienhein Pass that links the Inn Radweg we found really and it links to the fantastic Adige Valley and its amazing Radweg
If Komoot is giving you a track that looks suitable for goats only change the function to road cycling
Hope Dave is recovering
Keep save
Tricia
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1 month ago
Elizabeth SchleuningJill and Dave—loving your blog. So informative. Great photos. Mark and I are both reading it with envy. I hope Dave is OK after his fall. And so nice to learn without doing it the hard way about Kamoot etc…Miss you guys!
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1 month ago
Keith ClassenWe have been over the Brenner Pass three times - once going south and twice going north. Based on our research we took the train to and from Innsbruck and Brenner to avoid the busy roads. Going south from Brenner its mostly an easy downhill ride on a great bike path to Bolzano. Going north from Bolzano involves some climbing of course but nothing too challenging on regular bikes.
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1 month ago
Mike AylingHi Jill
The problem with the child bride scenario is that that eventually the superman on the front of the tandem runs into a wall of kriptonite and looses strength and some balance. Keep an eye on him!

Mike (1942) and Mary (1948)
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1 month ago
Stuart GarrettDave,
Hope you are recovering OK.
Stu
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1 month ago