Day 78 - I discover my whereabouts and then pedal across Lombok - Unfinished Business

July 17, 2023

Day 78 - I discover my whereabouts and then pedal across Lombok

My internal compass was spot on last night with one exception - Opandi and Uma's house was very close to the water. This explains the wildlife. After breakfast part 1, it was a 50 m walk to watch the sunrise.

I'm in a fishing village across the water from the ferry wharf.

The light was good for a few photos.

Uma got the day's supply of little fish - free to villagers, apparently.

Opandi was keen to show me some big trees that grew nearby. They were well worth seeing.

On our return, we visited a water supply that flows from the mountains and offers clean water. Don't ask me why the outlet is in the sea. I'm sure there's a sensible answer - continuous flow?

Every so often in life, there's someone who can make you feel hopeless. It's a pleasure because you can appreciate a skill that you don't possess. Opandi asked if I would like some young coconut. I expected a shop!

Some say that people over 50 should not climb ladders. Opandi is 28.

How do you transport them? Obviously, use a sharp stone to make a small incision, peel a strip of skin and tie them together.

It was time to return for breakfast part 2.

We bade farewell and I was on my way soon after 9, feeling that I had already made the most of a day. How lucky was I yesterday? Magic!

I wound through the convoluted lanes of the village and turned left for Mataram on the other side of Lombok. Gunung Rinjani accompanied me, but every so often ducked into cloud.

I found myself on a busy road but rather enjoyed it; there was so much to see.

Rather modest compared with the Christian cemeteries in Timor Leste, West Timor and Flores.

Unfortunately, some things don't change!

Vegetables in front, the scourge of Indonesia, Nicotiana tabacum, behind.

Gorgeous; toss it in the ute and take it home!

The first durian - I smelt them before I saw them.

I couldn't resist - 40,000 rp, more than yesterday's ferry ticket but still less than an Australian coffee. And, the durian belch has remarkable staying power.

That's a high school not a primary school. Indonesia leads the way in "ride to school".

It was busy. I even saw a big exercise with the cops getting people riding without a helmet. But it's a complicated law. Police don't have to wear helmets. I gather that it's optional for women in Islamic dress.

So, how do you cycle in this traffic that includes a lot of trucks, but mainly motorcycles? First, to understand my description you need to know that Indonesians, like the British, Australians and a bunch of others, drive on the left.

The first thing is to forget anything behind. Throw away your mirror! You can take off without looking! Listening to music would be fine, perhaps sensible. Your responsibility is in front. Someone coming from the left on a motorcycle will just continue, if going in your direction. If turning right, they will essentially do a u-turn, putting them in your firing line. All is good; they will likely keep on your left. Vehicles coming in from the right will spear in a diagonal into your lane. Likewise, oncoming vehicles making a left turn will come in a diagonal towards you. Just maintain your speed; they will go in front or behind you. Oncoming vehicles will overtake others but you will have space. Be consistent. You can veer to the right to dodge the pothole in front. Those behind will adjust. Try not to stop. Indicators mean nothing much of the time. They're best ignored.

I would trust an Indonesian to miss me, long before I'd trust the average Australian driver, who sees nothing but large square boxes with four wheels. Indonesians see a myriad of things on the road. They seem to have a huge respect for animals on the road - chooks, goats, cows, dogs. Yesterday I saw a cat cross a busy road. Having said all of that, I would not start my Asian cycle touring on the road across Lombok.

I finished my day in Mataram, a city of immediate appeal. My accommodation is impeccable, absurdly cheap and you won't find a better host than Alil.

I ducked out for dinner, a band blasted R&R in the street, the fruit stalls captured the eye and I found the perfect warung on the footpath.

What a fine day! 78 km on day 78, 800 m of climbing with a glide down in the last 30 km. I was in Mataram by 2.30 after four hours of cycling, all in the heat. It felt as though I cheated.

Today's ride: 78 km (48 miles)
Total: 5,996 km (3,724 miles)

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Graham SmithAnother day, another island.
It seems like only yesterday you were on a different island.
You are archipedaling the archipelago at an eruptive pace.
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9 months ago

Ian WallisTo Graham SmithWell done, Graham!
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9 months ago