Day 126 - out of the undulations and into the 100's - Unfinished Business

September 3, 2023

Day 126 - out of the undulations and into the 100's

It was another of those days when I had trouble finding my way, lost some kms and some time but caught out the apps. I've left myself a tricky 140 km for tomorrow, but the going will be easier and, I think, more pleasant. The last 70 km certainly has been.

So, back to the start of the day, which seems a very long time ago. It started in my room with a pair of shorts that now stand up on their own! Unfortunately, after being faithful servants they tore in half when I put them on.

Breakfast was a substantial buffet that was always going to power me for a good distance. I took a bunch of photos on the way out of town - little things that amused my small mind, and a couple of interesting things.

I can well imagine the Indonesian Tupperware party.

Jim should be ashamed of himself, selling a whole lot of random junk and calling it "Jim's Honey". He's an insult to the world's apiarists.

An electric bus! Indonesia can surprise. I wonder about the source of the electricity.

Who is the special "forever" couple who adorn the rear of a tanker?

My navigational hero, who told me that Komoot was leading me astray.

I was finally getting out of town with an hour wasted along with the other costs associated with more time in the saddle.

And where did I get? To a road with the steepest undulations, the most broken tarmac and the most heavy vehicles for a few days.

I was passing through palm plantations where children aren't allowed to walk.

I stopped after 25 km to regroup, which I did in the shade of palms amidst a pile of garbage. This prompted me to ask Cora to try to get me an air ticket. She cheered me up with a photo of you know who.

Soon after resuming, I stopped for a couple of interesting roadkills.

A lesser coucal - one of the few roadkill birds I've seen in Indonesia. I'll remind you that coucals are interesting for having just one testicle.

A little later, I made an excellent decision about food, when I stopped and bought a bunch of various pancakes, most containing black sticky rice. These would keep me going and save me from Masakan Padang.

I finally felt as though I was on my way with a paltry 35 km to show for a lot of hard work. I soon doubled that, however, thanks to a better surface and the end of the undulations. I stopped for a very occasional photo before ducking into a plantation for lunch.

It had to be done. These tyres had been sitting here for ages.

New poles on solid concrete bases. Most of them are straight!

Abdul, I told you to leave that last layer of palm fruits off the truck.

I had lost hope of having a big day. Instead, I was determined to salvage enough kms to put Dumai in range tomorrow. This was always going to be difficult on a winding road, adjacent to a river and with several roundabouts.

Suddenly, everything turned for the better as I reached the outskirts of Siak Sri Indrapura. The town had fine gardens and civic buildings and was remarkably clean.

The skeleton of what looks to be an interesting building.

Pots of flowering bougainvillea lined the approach to the bridge over the Bengkalia.

The bridge, itself is a spectacle, but it still has that spoke shattering groove at each end.

I was enjoying some of the more pleasant cycling I've had in Indonesia. I might add that I could feel the temperature and humidity rise as I got into this moist terrain.

Don't be fooled. He's not doing a favour cutting the field of dreams, he's collecting forage.

There's always a new mosque even in this seemingly sparsely populated region.

I pushed on as the day lengthened, desperate for every km I could grab. But I wasn't going to forego the occasional photo.

An ancient sign, rusted and hidden behind a tree mentions that magic word for the first time - DUMAI.

I kept pushing as plantation workers pushed also. At some point, like yesterday, a vehicle came alongside and a woman offered me money. I pointed to my pocket.

Workers drag the fruits to the road using all possible means.

They're loaded by hand into a truck. This is seriously hard work.

I was absolutely sure that I'd be sleeping rough, so I made my second wise food decision of the day and bought a bunch of fritters and things, as well as a couple of kg of bananas.

I was running short of money and so made enquiries about ATMs. I also asked about possible hotels nearby. I got a yes and directions for both. On the way, I saw another confidence boosting sign.

I tried two ATMs and both failed to deliver.

One had no money while the other gave me this message.

I decided to try to find the guesthouse anyway and see if they would accept $US. The place had no sign but after more enquiries I found it. What's more, I had just enough rp to pay. I could even afford a bottle of juice. So, here I am in DAUL Homestay.

Let me leave you with a little photo essay on palm workers.

I have about 140 km to Dumai.

Today's ride: 138 km (86 miles)
Total: 9,425 km (5,853 miles)

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John GrantFingers crossed mate
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8 months ago

Ian DouglasLosing the highway driving through towns was an infuriating thing a few decades back, mostly bypassed now. It led me to invest in the UBD country towns street directories. On a bicycle it must be so deflating.
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8 months ago

Ian WallisTo John GrantJohn, thanks for your contributions along the way. There's no doubt that it's much easier to keep going with encouragement and amusing anecdotes from back home. Perhaps nothing will match reminiscing over a beer with people who - well - have followed the blog. Ian
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7 months ago

John GrantTo Ian WallisIan. I'm really looking forward to it. I've taken the day off work so I'm thinking see you in the arrivals hall.
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7 months ago