Day 124 - towards the 300's - Unfinished Business

September 2, 2023

Day 124 - towards the 300's

And so another pinch and a punch goes by as I wake in another grotty room. I turn on a tap to fill the mandi bucket and nothing comes out. I'm directed to an unoccupied room that has a half-full mandi bucket. I take a photo of the mirror in my room so I know how I look on September 1, 2023. Actually, I wanted to photograph the red stuff on the wall and the fact that someone paid 65,000 rp for something.

Why don't they just advertise: "we employ no cleaning or maintenance staff in order to bring you the lowest prices. That's just the beginning".

I ate goregan I bought yesterday, a few bananas with several slices of stale bread, and a mango for breakfast. I then went through the usual routine of changing into greasy clothes and my most faithful shoes, putting on sunscreen, checking that I had everything, tossing down another tea and coffee, both laced with sugar, and wheeling out the door. I thanked the bloke as I left; I'm not sure what for but he did find water so I could wash and flush a turd. It was 8 am.

I saw four new mosques in the first 7 km. As usual, people had partly blocked the road as they pointed nets at drivers for donations. At any time, there must be thousands of people doing this in Indonesia.

Collecting money for a new mosque. People of all ages do this.

The breakdown of the costs of a new mosque (I assume).

Also, in those first seven km, I saw a tiny piece of forest, while 12 trucks loaded with palm fruits passed. Five trucks carrying new motorcycles were sitting outside one warung.

Epiphytes on a palm tree - in response to Florence's comment. I suspect that a lot of critters inhabit these trees. They're just not orangutans, tigers or gibbons.

There's a town after 48 km that was smaller than I envisaged and I passed straight through. I stopped at a warung for tea and coffee and was enjoying a decent break before a bloke moved in wanting to film me. He was right in my face as I tried to do the blog. He sits near me replaying a video of me at high volume - over and over. He offered a cigarette. I let him know via Google Translator that it's the most stupid thing you can do. You know what's tough about cycling here? As I rode off he called out "no smoking, good". He got my message.

Just after my stop I noticed a couple of roadkill that I photographed "blind" it was so bright.

Out of focus but look at that tail. In Australia, Rattus rattus; here?

The other thing that happened just after my break was 5 km of harder cycling. If only I'd known, I would have got it out of the way before stopping. Anyway, I got through it with some radical cycling. I absolutely flogged it downhill in the hope of minimising the uphill. On a couple of occasions I hit 60 kmh and slipped past braking trucks. With that out of the way, I made excellent time on some easier stuff that took me into a town. I did stop for a few photos.

The mud gives it away: this is the machine of a palm fruit harvester.

Throughout Indonesia I have seen gardens like these - shaped shrubs and a scatter of bougainvillea.

Danger zone. I assume it refers to the road. Why the English?

At one point I came up behind several stationary trucks. One lane was closed for roadworks but there were no road scholars there. It would have been chaos without the voluntary traffic wardens. Heres one having a break.

It was around this point that my odometer ticked over 65 km for the day. I gave a little punch of the air because under 400 km remained.

This was my sight on most of the pinches. These were Devil's Pinches.

I think that they perfected the arrangement of items and the colours of this roadside installation.

I wonder how this tribe would go, slowing traffic and expecting donations?

As I rode into Belilas, I felt a hunger coming on but remained patient. After 42 places offering Masakan Padang, I spotted a place doing mie goreng. I jumped on it. I had a little trouble getting across the point that I wanted another plate, but that issue resolved quickly.

It was 2 when I got going, giving ample time to add another 40 km for 120 by 4. Alas, I stopped after 500 m when I saw rambutans for sale. It hurt the pocket - I paid 20,000 rp for a kg, but look, they're rambutans.

I was determined to knock over a quick 40 km but felt strangely flat. I was well fed and hydrated, the terrain was easier but I was struggling. There was a good reason - my rear tyre was soft. Now things were tricky, because I needed shade, somewhere vaguely comfortable and where I wouldn't attract an audience. I found a deserted recreation area with a pond, something I needed for the slowest of leaks. Unfortunately, I never did find the cause.

I felt very good when I finally got going and stopped only for photographs, including this fellow, traveling on foot. We exchanged photos.

He's a hiker, an adventurer, a trail traveler, bound for Aceh

I had a break in Pematang Reba both to hydrate and to investigate accommodation. I decided to go another 24 km, even though it meant turning onto a side road. Thus, I turned left at a roundabout, fought my way through a political rally and then crept up a long hill.

Things that swim feature prominently in Indonesian roundabouts.

There are millions of palm seedlings scattered through the landscape.

Eventually, I reached a substantial river.

In Australia, it would say something like River Murray. I'm not expecting that here but I would like something.

I like the back-lit razor wire. Didn't it occur to anyone that removing the vegetation might prolong the life of the wire?

The smallest I have seen. I want one for Christmas.

Soon after the river I turned off to Kempang Harum where I easily found Hotel Simpang Raya. The entry is attractive, the lobby too, but with every step the place declines a few notches.

I walked down the road confident of finding a good meal somewhere. I chose a roadside warung, where three young fellows worked hard to feed a steady clientele. I has a very good nasi goreng and then a plate of vegetables - yes, really, in a broth. I had at least three mugs of tea and figured the bill to be about 45,000 rp. But they asked for 13,000. Apparently, someone had paid for my first course and tea. I gave them 50,000 and let them sort it out.

I took the odd photo on my return walk.

One of the few places you will find a "No Smoking" sign.

I returned to tackle the blog and rambutans. I succeeded.

Today's ride: 123 km (76 miles)
Total: 9,166 km (5,692 miles)

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Graham SmithIan you are zooming along now. Almost a sprint to the finish as you roll through Riau. It won’t be long before you are feasting on Singapore Noodles.
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8 months ago

Florence SofieldYay Ian the end is in sight and Cora is about to leave for Singapore!
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8 months ago

Ian WallisTo Florence SofieldThanks Florence, I much appreciate the encouragement. It's been a hard ride in the tropics. Ian
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8 months ago

Jackie LaycockSo close! you must be nearly able to taste it.
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8 months ago

Ian DouglasType your comment here
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7 months ago