To Vauban's masterpiece - France again - this time Alsace - CycleBlaze

August 8, 2022

To Vauban's masterpiece

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Woke up in the night to the sweet smell of pains au raisins - was I dreaming of breakfast? Was I still hungry after the not very satisying dinner at Le Maharaja yesterday? No, I wasn't dreaming, it seems that the pastry for the breakfast table is baked at three in the morning and I was getting an elusive foretaste.

I suspected today's flat ride might not be too interesting, but I wanted to visit Neuf Brisach, a fortified town designed by Lous XIV's military architect, Vauban. Built in 1699, today the fortifications are regarded as an architectural masterpiece unique in Europe and have been awarded UNESCO World Heritage status. 

Arial view of Neuf Brisach's layout
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The planned route going was not only uninteresting, the beginning on what seemed like more than three kilometers was unpleasant with cars passing too fast and too close. However, it was marked with green in Komoot as a recommended bicycle route.

After three kilometers we turned left, rode through an underpass and the busy road was behind us.
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When we got to Neuf Brisach we designed a new and eight kilometers longer route back which was much more satisfactory, but still not fascinating. I'm not complaining, we enjoyed our ride, it's just that some rides are better.

Nice but not exciting
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The crops are only surviving where there is irrigation.
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Karen PoretAh, lovely irrigation! Trying to time it when it hits the roadways to cool you off is a real ( ha) fun game!
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9 months ago
We got sprinkled a couple of times, too. I saw an incredible rainbow when riding through. It would have been enough water to ruin my camera, though.
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Karen PoretA direct hit, that is for certain! Our experiences trying to “hit the sprinklers” was from fields far away and too far between our routes.
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9 months ago


Once there I circled around on my bike and tried to capture some impressions of the fortifications while Janos flew his drone.

We entered the town through the Colmar Gate/Porte de Colmar
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The German garrison's Officers Club and mess were accommodated in the Colmar Gate after 1870.
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Another view within the gate
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The main square with a giant pencil in the middle. I don't know if it has any particular significance or is just public art.
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The Colmar Gate
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Enormous fortifications
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The elephant is also public art
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Corner stone
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Caserne Suzzoni: Barracks were almost unknown in France before Louis XIV's reign. Soldiers were quartered with inhabitants. Vauban had barracks built to spare the population this discomfort.
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My photo of the caserne Suzonni is from the other end.
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About a third of the return trip was a shady path along the Canal de Colmar. After that is was hot roads with not much traffic through small towns.

Again many signposted bicycle paths
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Charmaine RuppoltLove the bicycle signs! They should have these everywhere!
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1 year ago

I stopped for a picture of a yew hedge with a few berries on it. In front of the house where I grew we had a yew hedge with plenty of those sticky red berries, they kind of fascinated us kids. I remember messing around with them. I now read in Wikepedia: Most parts of the plant are poisonous, with toxins that can be absorbed through inhalation and through the skin; consumption of even a small amount of the foliage can result in death. I survived.

I don't see berries on yew trees very often.
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We were back in Colmar around one, it was a warm day but not stifling. A quick visit to the supermarket across from our hotel and we were supplied for lunch.

Good light at this time of day for getting a picture of our hotel's hanging sign
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Another great day. Two more to go before we climb back into the car for the ride home.

Today's ride: 43 km (27 miles)
Total: 431 km (268 miles)

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