Divundu to Kongola

June 11, 2022

Too scary for me

I knew when I left Divundu this morning, one of three things would happen as I approach Bwabwata National Park: 1) I will be stopped at the police checkpoint and told I am not allowed to cycle in it and be forced to get a ride 2) I will not be stopped and be allowed to cycle the 48 miles to the Omega police station where I will spend the night leaving me with and even longer day the next day at 83 miles/132km which is likely physically impossible for me especially with headwinds 3) I will decide I don't want to risk biking with elephants and lions and hitch my own ride all the way to Kongola.

Bwabwata is one of the few national parks they allow cyclists to cycle, but I heard they have cracked down in the last few weeks. In the last few days, I met cyclists coming the other direction. One was stopped, one was not.

I'm a scaredy cat and not one local has said it's a good idea to bike it by myself. However, I know there are some who have biked it. Then again, some of you may know my luck with animals....chased by a sea lion, charged by an elk, stung by a stingray, attacked by a monkey in Thailand, surprised a mountain lion biking in Yellowstone, and attacked by magpies in Australia. Probably don't want to add any African animal incidents....I may not fare as well.

I approached the police checkpoint and the lady clearly did not care. I asked her if it's safe and the reply was, "It's risky." Then she said I'd be okay during the day. Looks like I'm going with option 2. I biked about 10 miles where there were still lots of people around before passing the actual gate into the park. I rode a few more miles. There was barely any traffic and I was a bit scared. My head was on a swivel and I was fighting the dreaded headwind. I quickly realized this is not going to be any fun. Finally a truck came and two people from the UK gave me a ride to Kongola. A cyclist who had gotten a ride earlier, saw two cheetahs right next to the road! We saw nothing until near the end when we saw an elephant so technically, my ride was justified, ha ha.

The scenery was nothing stunning, but enough to hide the animals. Maybe without the added headwind I would have continued to risk it, but there was not point in being stressed the whole time.

The couple offered to drop me off at one of the lodges on a side highway down from Kongola, but I would have just had to backtrack the next day. Later I realized, that area was where another cyclist had stayed and saw tons of hippos. Darn it!

I got an adequate room. Very simple, not even a toilet seat on the toilet, but the bed was comfy. I rode my bike the 1.2 miles to a store and got a flat tire. I didn't have my repair kit with me. Pumped it up a bit, rode until it started to go too flat, then had to walk the rest of the way. Tons of broken glass on the shoulder.

No morning would be complete these days without sharing the road with cows

I mean, what could go wrong? (Let me tell you all the scenarios my brain imagined!)

I think the exclamation point really seals the deal

It's funny now until the actual fear kicks in...

One lone, completely wild elephant in the distance.

My saviours from the UK. Picked me in the park and dropped me off in Kongola. Was a nice ride visiting with them.

Cute, affordable room....I could it's so affordable they couldn't provide a toilet seat in ANY of the rooms.

Today's ride: 17 miles (27 km)
Total: 2,951 miles (4,749 km)

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