In Jasper: Mount Edith Cavell

August 1, 2023

I know some of you will be made impatient by this post, wanting to see more of charming Levi and his minders now that you’ve gotten a glimpse. Sorry, but we’re going to revert to chronological time and keep things in sequence for the duration of the journal. Hopefully I won’t forget what’s happened in the days ahead by the time I finally get caught up, but that’s the risk we take. It just feels like the proper thing to do.

Mount Edith Cavell has a reputation as one of the premier destinations in Jasper National Park. It’s primarily a hiking and ogling destination, featuring if you hurry at least the chance to see what remains of the diminishing Angel Glacier and other ice hanging to the face of Mount Edith Cavell, the most prominent peak wholly contained in Alberta. And, if you put in the extra effort, there’s a longer, more strenuous hike high on the opposing ridge for spectacular views of the mountain, a flower-strewn alpine meadow, and the chance of a wildlife sighting or two.

Of course, like Mount Robson this means this is a destination that draws the crowds in. In order to not find ourselves spending all day walking in an unbroken procession and be able to enjoy some uncluttered views, we get an early start and are driving south along the parkway by about 8:30.

Getting a jump on the day. We’re lucky and conditions look favorable for a hike and enjoying the views.

It’s only about twenty miles to the parking lot and trailhead, but it’s a forty minute drive. Nearly all of the drive time gets consumed in the last eight miles after you leave 93A and drive the rest of the way up Mount Edith Cavell Road, a steep, narrow, winding two lane affair. It’s no place for a bicycle really, and as I’m driving I’m thinking back on the first time I was here 35 years ago, biking up with my ex-spouse. It was an over-the top challenging day, that began in Jasper and I think ended up with us wild-camping somewhere further south on the Parkway. When we got to the turnoff for Edith Cavell we ditched our panniers in the woods, biked up this steep and scary road, took the short hike in to Cavell Pond and back, and coasted back down. A very tough day, and when I think back on it now I’m in awe of my younger self (and of my partner at the time of course) and the fact that I had the enthusiasm and drive to take that much effort and go that far out of the way to see a feature I just read about in the guide book. I wouldn’t even be tempted, these days.

If I can find it, I’ll retrieve that unpublished journal from storage and stitch in the entry for that day just as a reminder of what it was actually like at the time. And I wonder if I don’t have a photo of Angel Glacier stashed away somewhere too.

Mount Edith Cavell, from the trailhead parking lot.

There are two hikes available from the parking lot. The shortest one, to an overlook of Angel Glacier and Cavell Pond beneath it, is quite short and very accessible. Paved most of the way, it is heavily used under fine conditions such as we have today. There are quite a few cars in the parking lot already when we arrive, but traffic on the trail is still quite light and unobtrusive. It really is a spectacular spot, though as with so many places like this now it is distressing to see such obvious evidence that the glaciers are receding.

Overlooking Mount Edith Cavell and Cavell Pond.

Angel Glacier, or what still remains of it. It was named for its shape, but the angel’s body has diminished enough that it’s looking more like a dove now.

We’re at the pond for quite awhile, marveling at the view and waiting for our chance to sit on a prominent rock and stage a selfie. Afterwards we take in the second, much more strenuous hike - a steady, at times steep ascent to a meadow high on the slope opposite the mountain. It isn’t a long hike - we’ll put in less than six miles overall - but it’s steep enough and such slow going that we’ve been out nearly four hours by the time we make it back to the car.

As we climb we gradually work our way out of the woods and into open meadows with broad, impressive views. As we walk we intermittently hear the sounds of cracking ice and falling material as pieces of ice break off and tumble down the mountain. At the top we’re above 7,000’, high enough up that we’re looking down on the base of Angel Glacier.

Looking across at Angel Glacier as we gain elevation.

Looking back down the valley we drove up from the parkway.

I’ve restrained myself and only included one lichen shot. Several others were in the competition but lost out.

We gradually gain a different perspective as we climb.

Another look at the ice at the edge of Cavell Pond.

Grass of Parnassus again. We saw this earlier on in the tour. You’d think I’d have remembered.

This was a touching scene. After these two made contact in the middle of the trail they leaped into each others arms, formed themselves into a ball, and rolled off into the flowers.

Theories on what that swirling track up the ice is?

I forget where this shot was taken, but it’s from Rachael’s phone. I really like that it gives a broader field of view on shots like this.

Mountain fireweed, one of the few plants that gets a grip on this shale.

These high meadows are supposed to be a riot of color, but maybe we’re not timing it right for the wildflower displays.

We turn back at 7,100’ at a junction in the trail, but with more interest and drive we could have continued climbing for perhaps another half mile to a local summit. Looking up at the stream of hikers slowly trudging upward, neither of us feels tempted. The views are fabulous enough right where we were.

The upper loop ends here, at the base for the final ascent to the summit. Should we continue up further?

Beginning the long descent. Good thing I brought a hiking pole, or I might still be up there.

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Lyle McLeodIt’s such a beautiful place and you’ve more than done it justice with your photos and descriptions.
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9 months ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesIt is such a shock to see how much glacier ice has been lost since we were first there 55 years ago.
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9 months ago

Scott AndersonTo Steve Miller/GrampiesDo you have a photo from back then? If so, send it my way and I’ll include it.
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9 months ago

Patrick O'HaraGreat job, guys.
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9 months ago

Janice BranhamReally enjoyed this post. It brought back memories of hiking Mount Edith Cavell with my parents and my daughters 35+ years ago - earlier in the season when the wildflowers were riotous. The girls were 6 and 8 at the time and they still remember it.
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9 months ago