Donostia / San Sebastián to Saint-Jean-de-Luz - I'll get on back home one of these days - CycleBlaze

October 20, 2023

Donostia / San Sebastián to Saint-Jean-de-Luz

Adiós España Bonjour France

Leaving San Sebastián so quickly was a bit sad. With our short stay and the bad weather we felt that we really never had the chance to get a feel for the city. From what we did see though, it would be great place to spend more time. Maybe next time. Today we crossed the border - leaving Spain and returning to France. We have spent the last two weeks in Spain`s Basque country. The cycling has been very good and today`s last ride was no exception.

We left our hotel at 10:30 and after a quick stop at a couple of bakeries for lunch supplies we made our way to have one last look at Zurriola Beach before leaving  San Sebastián. We watched the surfers in the early morning  sun before making our way out of town. The weather was such a contrast from yesterday; the skies were clear, the wind had stopped and the air had only the slightest morning chill. Absolutely perfect for our ride north. 

Do you have any money, honey?
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Mid morning, mid October, Zurriola Beach. The sun is already getting warm.
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The surf looks big.
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Leaving town was on a mix of cycle paths and roads until we left San Sebastián and reached the outskirts of the town of Lezo. Here our route became a bit muddled. The plan provided a short section of highway riding in order to cross the Bidegorri River, which was firmly rejected! So we rerouted down a hill into the small town of Iztieta and from there crossed the river before heading up the hill to Lezo. It was the right call and we stopped for coffee before heading on. Being a bit confused with the slight reroute and trying to figure out how to get back on track we attracted several passersbys who offered their routing assistance. It was kind of funny because everyone had a different view as how to get to where we wanted to go - when we could  explain where we want to go!

Saturday morning rowing club in the Port of Pasaia. The port was small but striking with its the mix of industrial and residential areas.
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The Pasaia estuary.
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Leaving our coffee stop in Lezo and after a few confusing conversations with very helpful locals, we had no doubt as to where we we heading. It would be up a 450 metre climb to the top  Monte Jaizquíbel. (Jaizkebal). It is the western most mountain in the Pyrenees. Every summer, this mountain is the main challenge of the San Sebastián Classic. 

Lezo - Jaizkibal - Hondarribia - Irun. That is our route today!
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Scott AndersonGood for you! I wondered if you’d take the high route.
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6 months ago
Going up Jaizkibel. From this side, the road has a steady gradient of between 5-9 % and little traffic.
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Heading up into the coastal pine forest we found it strange that these mature pines had died.
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The Camino route also crosses this area.
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A good grade, nice pavement, no cars. And the weather was pretty good, too.
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There was just a small window between the trees providing our first view of the valley below.
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Popular with the roadies for sure! These guys are moving.
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A rare traffic jam in the other direction.
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The coast as we near the top looking south.
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Zoomed in a bit.
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...and a bit more. A very rugged coastline.
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Wide angle. It really is gorgeous and, as always, well worth the climb.
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Patrick O'HaraGlad you got great weather for this. It was pea soup when Susanna and I were here. Now, I'm envious to see what we missed.
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6 months ago
A bit more to go.
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A large group of mountain bikers were heading down just as we were arriving at the top.
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Looking back south at the coast of Northern Spain. Adiós España, it has been fun.
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Not a massive climb but a solid ride to the top of Jaizkibel. Our fitness has improved too!
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Anne MathersIt’s a beauty of a climb. A real classic! And you had splendid weather for it. We rode the opposite direction and took a ‘ferry’ to get across the river to San Sebastian.
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6 months ago

We sat in the grass not far from the top of the hill and had our lunch. Starting our downhill we were very surprised that just around the corner was an archeological site and parts of an old ruin now turned in to the most amazing look out. And most amazing of all was that there were just a hand full of people there, that all had arrived by car.

Our road and the view point stop.
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A green hillside.
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Looking north. In the distance is France.
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When we reached the top of the mountain there were many animals but this time they were all fenced in. I doubt that they appreciate their amazing views!
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A fine beast.
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Always a black sheep in the family.
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The cow family.
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The towns of Hondarria, Irun and Hendaye in the valley. It was a great downhill which is really a test for the roadies going up. Crossing the Bidasoa-Txingudi river, airport, train yards and a country border was a challenge to get through. Larrun is the large mountain in the background.
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Anne MathersIt’s crazy trying to find your way through there in a bicycle. Definitely a test for your navigation skills. Did you encounter the elevator along the bike path?
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6 months ago
Scott FenwickTo Anne MathersWe did not find an elevator. The Garmin route plan did most of the heavy lifting. In situations like this you place a lot of faith in the small map on the handle bars and stopping now again for a reality check. It all worked out quite well this time but is definitely a complex few kilometres.
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6 months ago
A closer look at the top of Larrun.
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These three peaks are known as Aiako Harria, located in the foothills of the Pyrenees, in part bordering Spain and France.
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A closer look at Aiako Harria. It is visable and easy to identify over a large area.
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Hendaye (France) in the foreground and Saint Jean de Luz is the next bay along.
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Hendaye is quite striking.
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Down we go.
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A really pretty ride with the trees in fall colours.
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ICYCLE. Some very nice bike lanes set up to get us through Irun and across the border into Hendaye.
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Scott AndersonHa, ha. I get it.
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6 months ago
Another beautiful day at Hendaye beach.
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Surfers loving it in the smallish waves working on their timing and balance. It is not that easy.
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I worked hard to get six people and their different pieces of sporting equipment in a single frame!
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Life is good - one.
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Life is good - two.
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Life is good - three!
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The coastal road from Hendaye to Saint Jean de Luz looked great on paper, and the views when we could stop and take a look, were great, but it was a busy, no shoulder road. The least enjoyable 10km of the day. It was a beautiful warm Saturday afternoon and we were told later - a school break, so lots of traffic. We survived and rolled into the main square in Saint Jean de Luz where we will be spending the next two nights. Our last day in Spain was a very memorable ride!

Stopping at the side of the road, I took this peak a boo look at the coast. I cannot resist a coastline.
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A lookout just before reaching Saint Jean de Luz in the background. Don't get too close to the edge!!
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Straight down to the sea. You can see our road in the top left.
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Wild rock layers right down to the sea below. This is super steep and no rail or even warning signs.
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Barry DevlinYes - those rock layers can get pretty wild!
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6 months ago
Fort de Socoa. Built from 1627 this fort was intended to protect the port of Socoa and the bay of Saint-Jean-de-Luz.
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A cycle lane just in time before reaching Saint Jean de Luz.
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The waterfront of Saint Jean de Luz. Our hotel was the last building on the left. This time of year, you may as well just stay right on the beach.
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The marina and main plaza in Saint Jean de Luz is where we stopped to celebrate this great day.
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Cheers!
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Today's ride: 48 km (30 miles)
Total: 959 km (596 miles)

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Rachael AndersonWhat a great day!
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6 months ago
Lyle McLeodBeautiful ride, well done! When we were here in May (riding from St JdL to San S) Jaizkibel was shrouded in clouds and thunderstorms were in the forecast. As a result we stuck to the lower inland valleys. We will have to come back and ride it again, and add in the costal route to Bilbao (that we also wimped out on!). Your days doing that looked beautiful too.
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6 months ago
Scott FenwickThanks Lyle. When planning to ride the North coast in late October I knew that we would have to get lucky with the weather. We really did hit the sun jackpot on the whole tour, and as you know, it is so much easier when the sun is shining. Thank you for following along.
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6 months ago