Dax to Bayonne

October 3, 2023

cooler days

With showers forecasted for the morning we went to bed last night thinking that there may be the possibility of a rain delay for today`s ride or the chance of substituting a train to get to Bayonne. It was dry when we got up and we quickly left by 9 am with the plan to pick up some breakfast and lunch on route. A local patisserie provided everything that we needed.

Our ride out of town on this grey day was on a mix of streets and dedicated bike paths. It was so grey that Scott did not take his camera out for at least the first 2o kilometres! Leaving the town limits, we transitioned to a nice divided highway that was lined with plane trees. We continued to ride highways and avoid the EV3 cycle route but we knew that by doing so we would connect to the larger D817 highway for a short stint in order to get across the L`Adour river. This was a bit of a concern. In the end, although D817 is a larger road it provided a good shoulder. We were over the bridge and back off the highway before we really encountered any traffic.

The D6 I believe, great asphalt and amazing trees.

After the first 25 kilometres of road riding we reached the quiet, flat, single lane paved road beside the L`Adour river. It was very nice but the downside was that it was very rural and we had yet to have our coffee stop! We carried on and getting closer to Bayonne a headwind picked up, putting a strain on the pedal pushing. As Bayonne is a big centre, we needed to negotiate a few busy urban streets before finding ourselves on the north bank across from Bayonne`s center. For the ever briefest period we had a rain shower - more like a cooling mist and then it was over. We were glad that we took a chance on the showers not materializing! Funny that we did not pass a single cafe from Dax to Bayonne and upon reaching Bayonne we finally found a restaurant for our much needed coffee stop.

The highway bridge crossing over the L`Adour River.

We joined the EV3 for part of the ride to Bayonne. Looking at the map, It is an impressive cycle route starting in northern France and going as far south as the border with Spain and likely beyond that. This map shows that some parts are still being developed.

Joining the EV3 route beside the L`Adour there was a nice picnic area for cyclists and others.

Along the way we passed these beauties. They are the Blonde d'Aquitaine, a French breed of beef cattle.

Purple morning glory or is there a fancier name? It looks nice.

Crossing the bridge into Bayonne`s centre. The left side was for cyclists and the right for pedestrians.

Nice pedestrian area. Our hotel was just up this street.

Just after 2 pm we went to our hotel that fortunately offered a 1 pm check in time. It was in a great location right in the busy pedestrian part of town. Pat went to check in with our host and asked him about the prearranged ¨no problem¨ bike storage. This caused a major concern as there was very limited space in the hallway and there were already three BIG electric bikes there. With no other solution provided we shifted things around and found space for our très petit vendredi vélos.

Bike storage at the Hotel des Arceaux. Not pretty, but it eventually fit six bikes. Fortunately in the morning we all left at the same time!

Our rooms were on the top floor. Carrying our panniers and climbing the four levels our legs let us know they had already completed sufficient work for the day. We quickly showered and went out to explore Bayonne. It was a very pretty town that had many tall narrow buildings that provided a really nice look. The streets were pedestrian friendly and full of shops that might not only attract tourists, but have many specialty food shops providing coffee, pasta, smoked fish, poultry, ham, wine and cheeses. Just a great mix! We wished that at home such high quality foods were available to us in such close proximity. And of course to top it all off, there was the magnificent Cathédrale Sainte-Marie de Bayonne with its twin spires. We found Bayonne to be a great place to spend the afternoon.

Looking across the L`Adour river to the north side.

We crossed back to the north side of L`Adour in search of a bit of late afternoon sun to enjoy an afternoon refreshment. We settled on a nice restaurant with outdoor seating right beside the river but the sun only teased us and a brisk wind from the west made it impossible to linger. It was at least ten or more degrees cooler today. Back at our hotel and getting ready to head out for dinner and the evening, it was the first time we put on long pants and sweaters!

Tomorrow`s ride we will begin to approach the Pyrenees as we make our way to Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry. We are bit anxious as the elevation graphs show a bit more climbing than we have been doing so far. An early start is planned.

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Today's ride: 55 km (34 miles)
Total: 404 km (251 miles)

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Scott AndersonThanks! We’ve never stayed in Bayonne but I’ve long wondered. On the list.
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7 months ago