June 23, 2005
Day 37: Ohio Pass to Kebler Pass
It rained most of last night, but it started clearing up in the morning. I stayed snug in my sleeping bag waiting for the pitter-patter of raindrops on my tent fly to finish. When I figured the rain had mostly stopped, I ventured out and took a look at the sky. Some blue. Not bad. I had some cheese and grapes and cookies and waited to see how the day would be. Then, all of a sudden, it cleared off.
The climb up Ohio Pass wasn't bad at all - especially since the road wound through a stunning aspen forest. White trunks - fresh green leaves - and a deep blue sky. The West Elk Mountains were visible in every clearing.
I stopped early and often to look at Ohio Falls as it cascaded off the sheer cliffs on the other side of the valley. The reason there were only a couple of cars all morning was because the road was still closed by snowdrifts at the pass. It made for some heavy slogging coming down. It's one thing if the snow is packed, but these drifts were soft and deep and wet. Sometimes the snow was up to my knees.
When I finally came out in the meadows at Kebler Pass, Sandra and James did a double-take. They were camping right where the road was closed and were amazed that I made it over the top. Sandra made me a cup of coffee and we sat and visited for a while. They are from Sherman, Texas - but love coming up to the Colorado Rockies every year. We went up to Lake Irwin and explored along the trail to the falls - then found a primo spot alongside the road to Crested Butte to watch the annual "No Chain" bike races. The riders obviously didn't have matching lycra outfits.
The weather was getting ugly. We went into town and had a pizza, and it really started raining. When I got back to the meadows, I set up my tent in the rain, climbed in, and read. A little before sunset - it cleared off again. I walked up to the old Irwin cemetery at the pass - Mary, aged 18, had died on July 31, 1880. Cold and misty. The setting sun's golden sunbeams. A lonely grave on the continental divide.
Today's ride: 6 miles (10 km)
Total: 1,837 miles (2,956 km)
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