June 20, 2005
Day 34: Rio Grande Gorge to Great Sand Dunes
What an incredible sunrise! It was like being on an island in the sky high above the Rio Grande and Red River. What's even more incredible was that I was the only person there. The smell of pinyon and juniper and sagebrush and a soft, golden light to take the chill off the early morning air.
The wind came up just as I got on my bike. Fortunately it was only moderate, but it made for a brisk ride. I slogged on. At Cerro I stopped at the little post office to mail some maps back home. Then I got on the highway to Costilla. The traffic was light and the wind slackened. After a giant root beer and some cookies at Costilla, I crossed into Colorado.
By now, it was getting pretty hot. I stopped at San Luis for lunch, but had a bear of a time finding any park or public space with shade. Public areas are at a premium in the Southwest. No grass, no restrooms, no benches, no water fountains. It's part of the poverty of the rural Southwest.
After lunch, I stopped by the little library in town and got some e-mails and post cards written. When I stepped outside, there was a big storm brewing and a hefty southeast wind. So, I grabbed all my stuff as fast as I could and hopped on my bike. I had hoped to fly all the way to Fort Garland, but after five miles, the wind shifted to a gale-force side wind. Dust blowing across the road from nearby fields brought visibility down to zero. Gusts blew me across the highway and off the other shoulder. Not too safe. I decided to wait out the worst squall and only got damp - more wind than rain.
I had the most delicious chocolate shake imaginable at a little cafe in Blanca. Of course, chocolate is a mood-altering substance - especially if you're beat. The wind died down. I had an incredible evening ride up towards the Great Sand Dunes with the late sun peeking through to illuminate Blanca Peak in orange and red.
But the wind picked up again just before I got in. The last 5 miles were uphill into the wind. And I had already done nearly 100 miles. Ugggh! I decided to stay at the private campground just outside the park - food, showers, and tent sites protected by junipers. Good thing, too - the wind howled all night long.
Today's ride: 93 miles (150 km)
Total: 1,673 miles (2,692 km)
| Rate this entry's writing | Heart | 0 |
| Comment on this entry | Comment | 0 |