Day 27: Burgos to Santo Domingo de la Calzada - Traversing the Iberian Peninsula from South to North - CycleBlaze

May 19, 2023

Day 27: Burgos to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

The weather report we received last night told us we would encounter rain today and that the wind would still be with us, but back down some in ferocity.  But when we double checked the weather in the morning before setting off, the rain had changed to a couple of showers between 11 and 12.  So, what did we do?  We packed the fender in a suitcase since we won't be needing it.

The ride out of Burgos began on a busy road for about 15 kilometers before we turned off onto a sweet country lane.  The wind hasn't been too bad (or maybe we are just becoming accustomed to it).  We stopped in a tiny village for coffee with some other riders.  It seemed a good idea to get something warm before continuing.  Oh wait!  It's sprinkling on us.  I guess a coffee will delay us a bit and the shower will pass.  After coffee, we set off again and as we began the first climb of the day, the shower increased.  So far, not bad.  It's been so darned cold, that I don't want to pull the camera out for any photos.  Our heads are down and turn those pedals is the name of the game.  I'd catch glimpses of the countryside and it was really beautiful and changing, but it was lightly raining and we just kept pushing forward. 

At the top of the first climb, I happened to look up and see this reservoir. It looked like it had a healthy amount of water in it.
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Another sighting of the reservoir before we begin the descent.
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The top of the climb - it's really cold, but not raining at the moment.
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Then came the descent which was cold and wet.  By the time we finished the descent, we were quite chilled and my backside was very wet.  And where was that fender we bought yesterday?  It sure wasn't keeping my backside dry!!

We came to the village of Pradoluengo and popped into the church since the door was open.  Simple and being cleaned by an elderly woman.  Chuck gave us a performance before we continued onward.

Church in Pradoluengo
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The center of the square outside the church that gave us shelter from the light rain.
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Onward we went cold and wet.  The light rain has subsided, but we're wet, the wind is mild, and it's cold.  Once the clouds lifted a bit, I ventured to take a couple of photos, especially when the terrain did amazing things.

The green of these fields caught our eye plus the contours of the land.
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The roads are getting dryer.
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This photo doesn't do the valley justice, but it was dramatic.
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Fresneda de la Sierra Tirón
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We're on the second climb of the day and it feels so good. Why? Because it's warming us up!
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The views get better as we go higher.
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That's the same village below - Fresneda.
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The top of the climb and the border where we are going into La Rioja region.
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A look at the road ahead - down.
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As we were flying down the descent, we stumbled across this church sitting on the side of the road.  Since the sky has turned more blue than black, we stopped for a look.

The entrance to Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Tresfuentes outside of Valgoñón. Of course it will be open tomorrow, not today.
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The bell tower.
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A tiny park is next to the church and it is sitting on top of an underground spring.

Fresh water! But who's been drinking water today? Too cold and too wet!
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A small cave where some of the underground spring water is coming from.
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We found our Paradore in Santo Domingo and showered quickly before finding some hot food.  Everyone was talking about how wet the day had been and how we had all hurried to get in.  

We had to go find the notorious cockerel and chicken since there is a myth about them in this town.  Once again we toured another cathedral in search of them.  We are on the Camino de Santiago now and there are pilgrims everywhere.

The story goes that a pilgrim who was with his family on the way to Santiago was unjustly accused of a robbery.  As a result, he was tried and hanged.  The parents, when they went to say goodby to the body of their son, realized that he was still alive.  So they appealed to the judge who was about to eat a roasted rooster and hen.  He was incredulous and said that the son was as dead as those birds, but at that very moment the birds revived and began to sing to demonstrate the innocence of the pilgrim boy.  

The cathedral has a chicken coop which is a beautiful gothic piece that always houses a cockerel and a hen in honor of the 'miracle'.  Sadly, it seems that I didn't take a photo of the chicken coop!

Saint Dominic's tomb in the cathedral - patron saint of Santo Domingo
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The bell tower.
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Town square in front of our hotel - view from the rooftop of the cathedral.
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In the far distance you will see San Lorenzo with its new coating of snow. We came from that direction and our second summit was at the village that supports the ski area for that mountain.
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Parador de Santo Domingo de la Calzada.
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Bill BogueWe stayed here on our Camino ride last year - nice place.
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11 months ago
Sanna PhinneyDid you see the cockerel and Jen in the cathedral?
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11 months ago
Interior view.
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An our main course - a leg of pork with a delicious mango sauce.
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More rain predicted for tomorrow!!  Fender will be installed!!

Day 27: Burgos to Santo Domingo de la Calzada
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Today's ride: 87 km (54 miles)
Total: 543 km (337 miles)

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