To Saint-Jean-De-Luz: Cruising the Atlantic - Mar y Tierra Around Spain - CycleBlaze

October 8, 2023

To Saint-Jean-De-Luz: Cruising the Atlantic

Today we get to ride the Atlantic coast through the French Pays Basque on our last day in France. First we'll have a better look at the neighborhood church - the Cathedrale Sainte-Marie de Bayonne, another Gothic wonder. The church stands on the Pilgrimage Way of Santiago de Compostela. I think we'll cross the Way of St. James a few times over the next week. Perhaps someday we'll follow the Camino all the way.

The Cathedrale Sainte-Marie de Bayonne, built from the 13th to the 17th century
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Sunday Mass is in progress. It's wonderful to hear the organ and voices ringing through the church.
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I made a hurried dash from the train station across the Pont Saint-Esprit yesterday to make the hotel deadline. It's nice to come back and appreciate this handsome bridge over the Adour River.
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In Bayonne
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The ride out of town is on a chill bike path that runs along the Adour River to the Atlantic. From there the path continues by the ocean. We'll be on it all day along with lots of other people enjoying the beautiful weather on a Sunday.

Quite a contrast between the pink Pont Henri Grenet, built in 1993, and the 1849 Pont Saint-Esprit
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The harbor in Bayonne
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Another productive bike shop stop, at Bicicletta in Anglet. I pick up a bell for my handlebar and Barry finds another spare rack screw since he has used all the extras that he found in Montpellier.
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Steve Miller/GrampiesBut did he find some sort of attachment device to convince your bags to stay with your bikes?
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7 months ago
Janice BranhamTo Steve Miller/GrampiesHe did tighten up the straps, they seem more secure. On the other hand, when I got to the hotel last night I realized that in my haste to get there from the train, I hadn't attached either of the hooks for my bags to the rack. Living a charmed life here.
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7 months ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Janice BranhamOh my gosh. We cannot take much more of the drama of the fleeing panniers.
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7 months ago
Janice BranhamTo Steve Miller/GrampiesIndeed. I will have to work on my pannier security for all our sakes.
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7 months ago
First sighting of the ocean, at Plage de Marinella in Anglet, on a perfect beach day
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The scent of beach roses wafts up around us. The Biarritz lighthouse is in the distance.
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The second waterfront carousel we passed today
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Really enjoying this path
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In Biarritz
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Rachael AndersonI love this place!
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7 months ago
Janice BranhamWe really enjoyed riding through here, and lunch by the water
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7 months ago
Natural arch
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Lunch at Carlos Cafe in Biarritz. I had a good Caesar salad, something surprisingly hard to find in the last few restaurants we have been to. Barry enjoyed the charcuterie board on his quest to try all the meat.
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There are some big vertical curves in the terrain on the second half of the ride. I'm relieved that Barry got his rear brake working; it's essential here on the steep downhills. Thanks to Scott Anderson for suggesting we take two days to ride from Bayonne to San Sebastian. It's a good call; there's plenty of adventure on our 22 miler today.

A switchback-y ride back up to the bike path was the price for a detour to ride this quiet stretch by the waterfront. Worth it.
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On the way out of Biarritz, we pass la Dame de la Mer... the Lady of the Sea.
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Glorious
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We both had to walk this one while the ebikers zipped past. If I lived here, an ebike would be next on my N+1 bike list.
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Steve Miller/GrampiesWe nearly ran our ebike batteries to zero today. Over 900 metres of climbing, and we did end up walking some.
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7 months ago
Janice BranhamTo Steve Miller/GrampiesOy, that's a lot of up. It can't be any fun to push an ebike up the hill..
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7 months ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Janice BranhamYou are right there, especially when fully loaded. There is a walk assist feature which gives a small push , but even so...
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7 months ago
Appreciating the separated bike paths
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Barry says there were a few topless sunbathers here. I wasn't watching that closely.
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Riding into the historic center of Saint-Jean-de-Luz
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There's a big crowd at the beach for the air show, watching a helicopter drop a passenger on to the ship.
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Took awhile to work our way through the mob
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In Ciboure, a neighborhood just across the Nivelle river from Saint-Jean-de-Luz we have to scale a mammoth hill to our lodging at Hotel Agur Deneri. Barry manages it all the way in the saddle; it's a long push for me. 

Respect
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Some spectators are near the hotel for a good view of the air show.
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This one was bearing down straight in our direction before it banked away
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Our little room has the only balcony on this side, with a wonderful view of the shore and the town.
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Rachael AndersonI really don’t like staying at the top of the town! But you get great views.
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7 months ago
Really an A+ balcony, right up there with the Hotel Katarina back in Rovinj on the Adriatic
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On the way to dinner we walk by traditional half-timbered Basque-style houses. I found three restaurants nearby marked as open on Google but we strike out on the first two. At least there's an entertaining scene on the way to #3 by a neighborhood bar.

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Ciboure harbor
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Kids chasing balls and giggling by the local bar. Behind them three guys are playing some kind of racquet ball. One of the balls came zinging by and took out a beer.
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Success on the third restaurant, it's open!
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Looks like a good place for fish.
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Grilled sardines, a new thing for both of us. Once you get past the dissection, they are very tasty.
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Grilled hake served Basque-style with tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, potatoes and pickled onions, really good.
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Rachael AndersonThat looks great!
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7 months ago
Couldn't decide between the chocolate cake and the apple tarte, both yummy
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All in all this was a wonderful day - beautiful riding, a pleasant city to land in and a great meal at the end.

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Today: 22 miles, 1423' o4ascent

For the tour: 284 miles, 11952' ascent

Today's ride: 22 miles (35 km)
Total: 285 miles (459 km)

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Rachael AndersonYippee! You had a great day!
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7 months ago