Tuesday morning we left our big cushy room in Prague for the bus ride to Krakow. It rained a bit off and on, good timing coming on a travel day. We drove through the Moravian countryside, stopping in the town of Stramberk. After lunch we walked up the steep streets to the ruins of the 14th century castle. I appreciate how the tour planners have built some time into a long drive for a break and some exercise.
Forming up at the Hotel Metamorphis for the trip to Poland
As in Prague, we're staying close to the historic center of Krakow at the Hotel Wielopole, right on the tram route. We meet the group for dinner in Old Town and a walk around the market square.
First look at the Gothic towers of St. Mary's Basilica in Old Town Krakow
Wednesday morning we meet Anna, our guide in Krakow, for a walk to the Market Square and Wawel Castle. She spends some time talking about how she and her family and friends were affected by the Russian invasion of Ukraine in February of 2022. Poland also shares a border with Russia and there was much fear that they would be next, spurring people to fill their gas tanks, hoard cash and pack their go bags. After awhile that energy shifted to welcoming refugees from Ukraine and helping them find housing and jobs.
Anna with our group in the park that encircles the old city
The colors of "The Island" by Krakow artist Kinga Nowak, were inspired by the stained glass of windows of the catherdral. Very fun to walk through here.
Back in the Market Square at Saint Mary's Basilica we learn about the trumpeters who have played a bugle call from the tower here every hour of every day for hundreds of years. They play the same call in four directions. Legend has it that during a Tartar invasion of Poland, the trumpeter was shot in the throat by an arrow, cutting the music short. This is supposedly the reasons why the trumpeters stop the call abruptly before the end.
This is the best angle to see and hear the bugler at the top of every hour. You can barely see the bell of the bugle in the top arched window. That Tartar must have been quite a shot from the ground.
Our open time Wednesday afternoon is short, and we have all day free tomorrow for a ride, so the priority errand after our morning tour is to ship the Bike Fridays ahead to Montpellier for our ride into Spain. The Mail Boxes store is 3 kilometers from our hotel, but tram #24 takes us practically door to door.
Agnieszka at Mail Boxes Etc. remembered me from my emails as soon as I told her our folding bikes were in the suitcases. She made sure they were carefully boxed up for the trip to Montpellier France, where they should be by Monday, a week before we get there. The cost for both - $168 with insurance, is not much more than we would have paid to fly with them to France.
After the bikes are sent on their way we have time to walk around Kazimierz, the center of Krakow's Jewish community before the Holocaust. A monument here memorializes the 65 thousand Jewish citizens from Krakow who were killed by the Nazis. Many of Krakow's Jews were forced into the ghetto across the river in Podgorze, the site of one of Oskar Schindler's factories. Only a few hundred Jews live in Kazimierz now, but the neighborhood has experienced a rejuvenation since Schindler's List was released in 1993.
Monument to the Jewish people from Krakow who were killed in the Holocaust
Our day ends with a wonderful concert of Frederick Chopin's piano music played by Pawel Kubica. Chopin is beloved in Poland for his music inspired by the dances and traditions of this country.
Kubica leads off with the Ballade in A-flat Major, a beautiful composition that I attempted, but never mastered, as a music major at the University of Kansas in the late 70s. His performance reminds me how this piece made it clear that I was not destined for a career as a pianist. So many notes.
After 5 days off the bike, we can't wait to get back in the saddle tomorrow!
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Ginny and Pete DarbySpectacular commentary and photo documentation of our visit to Krakow. I never seem to organize my notes and pictures. Thank you, Jan! I relived the visit as I read your blog. Reply to this comment 7 months ago
Janice BranhamTo Ginny and Pete DarbyThanks so much for your comments! It's an effort to keep up with the journal every day but we really enjoy the memories. Reply to this comment 7 months ago
