Alozaina to Ronda

November 3, 2023

Howling winds rattled the window shutters of our room last night. Patrick, owner of the B&B, says this is the first time they've had such strong winds this season, and it's expected to continue today. Oh, goody. That'll be fun as we get into the higher elevations on the way to Ronda.

Let's put that off a bit longer with a little ride around Alozaina to see what we missed last night in the dark. It's a pretty town, one of eight white hill towns that guard the Sierra de las Nieves.

Another look in the daylight at the welcome gate, built in the 1950s to celebrate the city's Arab heritage

There are signs all over the village of Maria Sagredo, known as the heroine of Alozaina for her brave fight to repel a Moorish attack in 1570. According to the legend, a band of 600 Moors from Ronda rode in and attempted to take the town. Most of the people of Alozaina were out in the fields working on the harvest and only seven men, women and children were left to defend the village.

The women disguised themselves as men to fool the attackers. They fought back three assaults but there were casualties. When Maria Sagredo, a teenager, saw her father wounded, she put on a cape and helmet and joined the fight to defend the fortress.

With a crossbow and arrows, Maria killed a Moor and wounded others at the gate. Then she threw beehives at the enemy who were trying to climb the ladder and they fled. Meanwhile, the villagers in the fields returned when they heard the bells and sounds of battle. Seeing the resistance put up by the town, the invaders retreated and Alozaina was saved.

Above an arch that leads to the high point of the town, the city's coat of arms depicts Maria Sagredo throwing honeycombs at the Moorish invaders.

If I had known the story at the time, I would have attempted a better picture.

Another version of the emblem, from the web

An enticing street leads us to Maria Segredo Park

Beautiful doors and tilework on this immaculate whitewashed street

Looking out over the village from the park. It's a little breezy but not too wild up here, yet.

Santa Ana Parish Church stands on the plaza at Maria Segreda Park. It was built in the 18th century on the site of the original church that dated back to 1505.

This woman lit up the beautiful altar just as we stepped into the church.

Next to the church, the House of the Brotherhood of Veracruz and Santa Cruz of Jorox

Homes with a view over the Sierra de las Nieves

Goodness, it's going on 11 and we have a date with some long hills. Better get cracking. We retrieve our bags from the hotel where they waited during our little jaunt up and down the village streets, and take our leave of lovely Alozaina.

Right off the bat, a notice to motorists that there are cyclists on the A-366. The indication of 41 km going up squares with our GPS route. Here goes.

No flats to warm up on here. A seven mile climb starts from the town.

The breeze is picking up as we look back at the landscape

I like wind less than hills. So far the hills are blocking much of the wind, but you never know when you come around a curve if it's going to find you through a valley.

A good gust awaits us around the bend here

We stop to add a layer as the clouds gather and the breeze picks up. Then the sun comes out again, the next hill blocks the wind and I'm sweating. If you don't like the weather, wait five minutes.

Stopping to look back on our progress so far

Welcome to Yunquera, another of the eight pueblos blanco around the Sierra de las Nieges.

I originally booked a room in Yunquera, then decided it was too much to add on this hill to yesterday's route. Feeling good now about backing up yesterday's stop to Alozaina. We'll see how we feel about it later after we get through today's ride.

It's now 12:30, we are not yet done with this climb, and a longer one awaits us after this one. This is not a day for a leisurely lunch stop so we'll hit the gas station to boost our snack supply and keep going.

Fall colors have arrived in the mountains.

A bit over a mile later we reach the top of the first climb and coast four miles down to El Burgo. It's cloudy again and a light rain is starting to fall. Barry stops to dig out his tights and I pull on another layer. We dig down to summon our militant optimism for the second climb - eight miles this time, and steeper. I don't see any more towns on the map between here and Ronda, 16 miles away.

Shortly after we get started up the hill the sun comes out again, then more sprinkles. We continue through constantly changing conditions - sun and calm, clouds and wind, sun and rain, it's wild. A cold wind blasts around the curves more often now.

No actual snow, thank goodness, just a sign of the possibility

Still more beauty to distract from the work

An hour in and about halfway up the climb, the wind is no longer intermittent. We're riding head on into a gale that stops us in our tracks and we both have to walk. My walking speed is only a little slower than the 3 mph I was doing on the bike. I don't remember ever riding in a wind this strong. At least it's not raining.

There aren't many pictures of the rest of the ride from either of us; we're just focused on getting through the endless wind. The eight mile climb up takes us over two hours in all, then there's a long cold drop to Ronda. Some groups of riders pass us coming from the other direction, many of them talking and laughing. I wonder at how much fun they are having, then realize they have a good stiff tailwind.

Quick pick while rolling of some goats that just crossed ahead of us, then disappeared in the brush

At the second summit, no long celebratory stop here.

Almost to Ronda, ruins of a Roman aqueduct

It's a little shocking to be back in traffic for the last mile to our apartment in the old section of Ronda. We make a quick stop at the grocery store and a kebab joint for dinner then retreat for the night.

There are more hilly rides ahead, but I don't see anything like what we encountered today. As tough as it was, I'm glad we started from Alozaina and took the time to explore it in the sunshine.

We figured on warmer weather when we planned to finish the tour in southern Spain, but didn't take the elevation into acount. So there's a lesson for the future. I can't complain about the weather; we've been very lucky overall.

We'll give the bikes a rest tomorrow and see the sights of Ronda. Glad to have three nights here.

Heart

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Today: 29 miles, 4141 feet of ascent

For the tour: 760 miles, 50,020 feet of ascent

Today's ride: 29 miles (47 km)
Total: 770 miles (1,239 km)

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Comment on this entry	Comment	2

Keith AdamsA day of Type 2 Fun. Endure it now, savor later when you're comfortably ensconced in a cozy chair with a blanket, good book, and glass of wine back home this winter.
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6 months ago

Janice BranhamTo Keith AdamsI agree Keith, it's a solid Type 2 fun memory. At the time it had me questioning the whole enterprise, but it's satisfying to have endured, and every ride since has been Type 1.
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5 months ago