Nájera

May 27, 2022

A far more enjoyable ride today compared to yesterday. The first thirty odd kilometers on the Camino and the last section on the N-120. A motorway split off from the N-120 after Santo Domingo de la Calzada which meant all traffic diverted off it leaving it practically to ourselves. The surface of the Camino was also a lot smoother today than yesterday and the headwind was much lighter. Add in no long climbs and the result was a pretty easy day's riding.

Much of the way from Burgos has been on the Eurovelo One which turns southwards at that city towards the south of Spain befoire looping up the Portuguese coast.

After a few villages we arrived in the town of Belorado which had a few things of interest - a church with a twelth century statue of a seated Santa Maria and some great street art.

The interior of the Iglesia de Santa Maria.

We crossed into La Rioja today. This is Spain's premier wine country and it immediately became clear that it makes sure to profit from being known as that. Wine tours and tasting here aren't run by charitable organizations but, suckers as we are for things to do with wine, we are ready, within reason, for what they might throw at us.

The first bodega we spotted after crossing into La Rioja.

Nájera used to be an important city, formally a bishopric and capital of the Kingdom of Navarre, now it is simply a small town on the Ruta Frances. It's name is apparently a corruption of the Moorish word Naxara, meaning "town between the rocks" and was the location of the legendary three day struggle between Roland, one of Charlemagne's nobles, and the Islamic giant Ferragut.

Recent signs of buildings built into the cliffs as we entered the town.

We are spending the night at the municipal albergue. It is run by volunteers and has a good reputation. We arrived at about one thirty and there was already a long queue waiting to gain admission (we were thirteenth in the queue). The two volunteer hostaleros on duty this week are from Brazil and the Bronx. The guy from the Bronx's parents are from Puerto Rico and he was quite interesting to chat to. He had also cycled the Camino and was in Sevilla during this year's Semana Santa that we were so there were a few common threads on which we could connect.

The queue demarcated by the pilgrims' shoes. A neat and efficient way to control order.

Needless to say, all forty beds, in a single large dormitory, are occupied for the night. It has a good kitchen and a large common area with more seating outside so it doesn't feel cramped. There will no doubt be a few snorers so I am not expecting a quiet night.

Tomorrow we have a very short day because (I think) I have organized a tasting at a bodega about fifteen kilometers from here. Not much riding can be safely done after that.

Today's ride: 54 km (34 miles)
Total: 2,168 km (1,346 miles)

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