My final day of cycling in Slovenia was splendid - I really could not have wished for a better day. It started with perhaps the most amazing assortment breakfast items, each delivered to my table by Kora. In addition to the typical Slovenian breakfast items of breads/pastries/cereals/yogurts/meat/cheese and grilled vegetables, there was a caprese salad, an avocado salad, and pancakes if I wanted. To top it all off, Kora made me two sandwiches to go.
Well-fed and provisioned for the day, I set off for Maribor under deep blue skies and moderate temperatures. The first ten miles were easy and relaxed, cruising through the small towns and settlements of Mura River basin. Once again, there was little traffic in this sparsely populated region, even more so on this quiet Sunday morning.
The terrain became more varied after I crossed the Mura River and passed into the traditional region of Styria. It was pretty much perfect cycling - a rolling landscape under an azure sky decorated with show-stopping clouds. A large, three-towered church off in the distance inspired a detour into the town of Sveta Trojica v Slov. Goricah; however, access to the church was blocked and the town showed little signs of life. I had nearly the same experience when I reached the much larger town of Lenart, where the empty streets were more concerning as I was needing to refill my water bottles. I ventured off-course and followed a couple of day riders before stopping at what appeared to be a bar – a house with a porch where a group of men were sitting at tables drinking beer. Although such places had proved to be bars in other small towns, this was just some guys hanging out and enjoying a Sunday afternoon with adult beverages. However, one fellow spoke English and told me I would find something at the bus station. Faced with my quizzical stare, he directed me back to the main rotary and through a small alley where I indeed found not only the bus station but an assortment of cafés and food stands, including an ice cream shop. Not one to pass on an opportunity for ice cream on a hot afternoon, I enjoyed two scoops before embarking on the final stretch to Maribor.
I was flying, in most every sense of the word. It was cycling nirvana
Despite the presence of an imposing church and monastery that might attract tourist dollars, Sveta Trojica v Slov. Goricah was a small settlement in need of a little sprucing up
The final run to Maribor began with a five mile stretch to Pernica along Hwy 449, a regional highway that runs closely alongside the A5 autoroute. This theoretically should divert most of the traffic off Hwy 449, and indeed traffic was not too bad today, a Sunday. However, there were enough cars and trucks to suggest it might not be the best route on a normal weekday. After Pernica, I was once again on my favored local roads for the final climb before Maribor. Partway up the hill I stopped to look around and savor what Slovenia had offered me these last three weeks – a wonderful mix of green and yellow fields, hills, and mountainsides punctuated with spired churches and red-tiled roofs. As I was about to continue upward, a dad and his two daughters went whizzing down the hill, he offering a little cautionary advice to avoid the pile of horse manure – but nothing strong enough to slow them down. I watched them go, wishing that all young girls could have a parent to guide them down life's perilous roads, giving them the know-how and confidence to take calculated risks, and sharing in their success and the thrill of the ride.
The final five miles into Maribor were fantastic – first on a small road that wound up and down through the woods, weaving beside and under the autoroute. At Malečnik, I joined a spur of the Drava Velo Route, a dedicated cycle path that took me into my hotel in the heart of Maribor. The cycling part of my Slovenian adventure had come to a close.
After checking in and freshening up, I walked over to the Maribor train station to see about getting me and Vivien George to Ljubljana – the online website was a bit confusing and I was hoping to get a direct ticket. No problem – the ticket counter was open and we booked two tickets on the 11:45 train, one for me and one for Vivien George.
I had read great things about Maribor on CycleBlaze and was looking forward to seeing a bit of the town. I headed toward the central part of the city thinking I might grab an early dinner, but the unusually high temperatures dampened my enthusiasm for a meal outdoors. Instead, I strolled slowly through the sparsely populated tourist section and watched with a bit of envy as young girls frolicked joyfully in the fountains. I eventually made my way over to a Jack and Joe’s, a popular restaurant specializing in American style steak, burgers and barbecue. I must admit that the pulled pork sandwich was quite tasty, maybe not up to Carolina barbecue but a fair approximation. After dinner I crossed to the shaded side of the Drava River and joined the many folks out for an early evening stroll or bike ride along the Drava Cycle Route. It seemed the perfect way to close out a wonderful day and an extraordinary tour.
