To Lecce

April 13, 2022

The destination today was Lecce, known as the Florence of the South it is city renown for its baroque architecture. It was a short day, and with few exceptions was fairly unremarkable. The first ten miles were inland, initially on cycle roads and then on a low traffic state provincial road. There was one brief sea sighting along the way, at Ponte dei Laghi Alimini, where the waters of the Adriatic flow into Lago Alìmini Grande.

Wonderful small cycling roads to start the day

I've come across may cyclotourist roadsin the Salento - some paved, some not.

Where Lago Alìmini Grande meets the Adriatic Sea

I finally reached the coast at Torre del’Orso, a fairly lively town with a nice sandy beach along the cove. Although I’d been layered up most of the morning, there were several young boys splashing about in the sea. The scene called to mind the two cyclists I’d met this morning who’d gone for a morning swim before checking out of the hotel and heading to Lecce. And just like that, there they were - Helena and Edmund, young Brits from Winchester on a 5-day self-guided tour of Puglia. Along with the usual topics of conversation, Helena pointed out Albania, it’s snow-capped mountains barely visible on this partly cloudy day. And she shared the interesting fact that snow was once brought over on ships from Albania to Puglia. Indeed, a later google search affirmed her story - in the 18th century snow was shipped over, stored in cisterns, and used to cool medicines.

Chiesa Santi Angelì Custodi in Torre dell'Orso

A 24-hour pharmacy - the doctor is not in.

Squint, and you might spot the snow capped mountains of Albania

The next seven miles stayed close to the coast and then turned inland on a car-free road through the Oasi Le Cesine nature preserve, a WWF-protected wetland. It was a magical stretch, alone with a stillness broken only by the buzzing of insects or the cheeps and caws of birds. There were several walking trails along the way, as well as a small shelter where I stopped for a rest and a bite to eat. I thought about taking a nap, but instead got back on the bike, left the nature preserve, and turned west for Lecce.

Roca Vecchia, with Madonna of Roca Vecchia on the right

Curiously, there were a number of grave sites in the nature preserve. Some were here before the preserve was established in 1977 - but I did not check out all the headstones

Olive trees awash in wildflowers in the Oasi Le Cesine nature preserve

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Today's ride: 30 miles (48 km)
Total: 215 miles (346 km)

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