Randazzo to Troina - Sicilian Circuit - CycleBlaze

April 18, 2023

Randazzo to Troina

Let’s start with last night’s dinner. On our walk around town yesterday, we came across the former San Giorgio monastery.   I took this photo about its history but didn’t include it in my post but I will now. Why?  Because it’s on the wall by the door of a restaurant that wasn’t open at the time but which was emitting very good odours. We couldn’t see its name but we found out by its location that it’s called Ristorante San Giorgio e il Drago. We came back at 7:30 for dinner and enjoyed every bite!

History of the monastery and how it got its name.
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My primi: orecchiette with flowering zucchine. Fantastic buttery sauce! Al had a pasta Norma dish.
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Shared secondi: veal(?) steak, the best steak we’ve ever had in Europe, I think.
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We had ordered roasted potatoes to go with the steak but they weren’t available so we were given these delectable little potato pancakes instead.
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Shared dessert: almond tiramisu
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The older part of the monastery, we think.
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It was drizzling throughout the evening and the streets were wet, so still no regrets about not riding yesterday. 

This morning the streets were still wet but the sun was shining and, despite threatening clouds, we stayed dry all day. 

It was a pretty ride to Troina but sadly not as colourful as when Team Anderson did it in 2016. One thing we noted that they presumably didn’t see was all the flattened toads on the road in the last 5 km approaching Cesarò.  They were fairly large, up to maybe 6” nose to tail. Why?  No idea. No, I didn’t take a photo. I did take a few scenery photos:

Actually, Al took this one as we left Randazzo
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Etna with her (self-generated?) cloud
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Scott AndersonThat is so amazing. Even better than squashed toads!
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1 year ago
Bob KoreisYes self generated. A lenticular cloud. We see them all of the time over Mt. Rainier. Well, at least when the mountain is out.
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1 year ago
Patrick O'HaraLenticular cloud....Bob beat me to it!
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1 year ago
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Every time we look back, Etna is peeking through her clouds
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Scott AndersonI dunno. This seems at least as spectacular as when we rode it.
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1 year ago
That’s Troina up there.
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The two climbs, to Cesarò and then Troina, were quite manageable, one of the advantages of SS 120. The other advantage is the smooth road surface.  Once we reached Troina, though, it was a different story!

My RWGPS route had us on a street that was one-way in the opposite direction, though it looked like it had only recently been changed to one-way. That was okay, we just went carefully because it was wide and had almost no traffic. But then the route took us up some very steep switchbacks and then… stairs!

Up
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And up
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Scott AndersonI love it when a shot gives you a real feeling for how steep it is.
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1 year ago
Patrick O'HaraWhoa. That's a nasty grade!
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1 year ago
Margie AndersonIncredibly steep!
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1 year ago
Jacquie GaudetTo Margie AndersonStupid steep! I kept thinking about draft animals who would have had to pull carts up this.
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1 year ago
And up some more
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We unloaded the panniers and portaged; Al carried the bikes and I took the bags.
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At least there was a distracting view!
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When we finally reached an actual street again, our accommodation was right there. Our host had been watching for us and when we explained we had come up the stairs, he seemed to indicate that Google Maps often did that to his guests. 

Where we’re staying. Up the stairs and left.
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Some pics from our afternoon explore. Troina, at least the historical centre where we are staying (basically one street and a lot of stairs) is the cleanest town we’ve seen in Sicily. It’s very proud of its status as one of the most beautiful villages…

In Troina
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View looking north
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In Troina There were many painted tile panels like this, illustrating scenes from Troina’s heyday, when it was the first capital of Norman Sicily
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In Troina
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In Troina
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There’s a Robert Capa museum. Apparently he was here for a while during WW2.
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In Troina
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In Troina, the Cattedrale Normanna
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Looking closer at the cathedral, we see San Giorgio again.
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Panel about Conte Ruggero
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Keeping up appearances
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If you copy this route, that’s fine, but I strongly suggest you find a different way into Troina!
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Today's ride: 48 km (30 miles)
Total: 1,270 km (789 miles)

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Margie AndersonWill definitely mark Troina as a place to see! Thank you for your great touring stamina! M.
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1 year ago