A Change of Scenery - East Glacier to Eastern Maine - CycleBlaze

May 10, 2019

A Change of Scenery

Wolf Point to Culbertson

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Jackie: 11.6 mph
Scott: 13.9 mph
Weather: Sunny, 50-60 degrees
Terrain: a few short steep hills in beginning and end of mostly flat 
Wind: westerly
57 miles

Happy birthday to our oldest son Yuri! We dedicate this blog to him for bringing us good luck on a day with favorable weather, pleasant surprises, and scenic views. I often think about his consistent positive mental attitude, a good model to emulate. (I can hear Julian saying, “What about me? I have a PMA.” Yes, but this was Yuri’s birthday.) This day we felt especially connected to loved ones present and those who have passed on.

After Scott made an adjustment to my handlebars, it was 09:50 and warm enough for just a windbreaker over a long sleeved merino knit top, plus fingerless gloves. Still riding east on Highway 2, we were heading into the territory where Scott’s maternal grandfather had homesteaded along the Missouri River. All her life, his mother Margie (soft g) loved the open prairie where you could see for miles and miles in the dry air. I thought about her as we rode through, wishing I could tell her what it felt like to be in that area where she was born and lived for a time as a child.

With the wind at our backs, we paused in Nashua in search of coffee before braving what a road sign said would be an 11-mile stretch of construction. No coffee, but a really nice surprise was in store. The construction was basically done, the crew was putting in the guardrails. So we cruised along on smooth, seamless asphalt in a 35 mph speed zone. Yay!

We were in Poplar at 11:30, a little early for lunch, but not too early for ice cream and coffee. The middle of town was torn up to put in a new roundabout to slow traffic through town. We paused briefly at Frostee’s and exited onto a short bicycle path (yes, a bike path in tiny Poplar) that led us out of the construction and onto another paved road, BIA (Bureau of Indian Affairs) Route 1 that runs parallel to Highway 2 and the railroad. The surface was cut with frost heave seams, so we kind of lumped-lumped along, like some less traveled farm roads in northeast Germany made from concrete blocks. Riding in the middle of the road diminished the bumps a bit.

Scott’s maternal grandfather homesteaded in country like this near Brockton, on the south bank of the Missouri.
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This back road led back to Highway 2 just a couple miles outside Brockton. Dark blue clouds were piling up in the west behind us. While Scott was pausing on the road for me to catch up, a man in a pickup stopped and asked if everything was okay. Scott explained our situation and the driver wished us well. He warned us to get to Culbertson before the storms hit. We took his good advice to take another BIA 1 just over the hill east of town.

With a smooth surface and few cars, we could take in the scene without thinking about shoulder width or traffic. This is a beautiful ride for any vehicle. You can see the ochre and red shale striations in the hills on the banks of the Missouri off to the south. And close up gumbo hills that come into view when you go around a corner. We made it to Culbertson, Margie’s birthplace, by 16:45.

BIA 1 that runs between Brockton and Culbertson has stark and wonderful views.
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Scott AndersonSo beautiful!
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4 years ago

Culbertson lies just outside the boundary of the Fort Peck Reservation, the home of the Assiniboine and Dakota (Sioux) nations, the Sioux being famous for defeating Custer at the Battle of the Little Bighorn. (My grandfather homesteaded a ranch that turned out to include the territory where the Battle of the Rosebud took place, 50 miles south and one week earlier than the more famous Custer’s Last Stand of June 25-26, 1876. His former ranch is now a state park). The two-million acre Fort Peck Reservation was created in 1888 and named for Colonel Campbell Kennedy Peck, who established a fur trading post with his partner Abel Farwell. The original Fort Peck Indian Agency on the site was flooded out by an ice jam in 1877 and then moved to its current location at the mouth of the Poplar River.

Memorable vistas of the fabled Missouri on BIA 1 between Brockton and Culbertson.
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Culbertson is currently experiencing the trickle down benefits of resource extraction from the Bakkan Formation, an area rich in oil and natural gas in northeastern Montana, northwestern North Dakota, southern Saskatchewan, and southwestern Manitoba. According to Geology.com, since 2007 horizontal drilling and hydro-fracturing have made it possible to extract the previously inaccessible oil and natural gas trapped in rock. The formation has boosted the economy of northeastern Montana and turned North Dakota into the #2 oil producer after Texas. 

Sixth Street (aka Highway 2) is lined with new curbs and fresh pavement. We stayed at the Hi-Line Inn and Suites, a fairly new motel offering spacious rooms, kingsize bed, kitchenettes (no cookware), and a free laundry facility. Alas, the cable TV selection did not include ESPN, so we missed the Rockets last stand against Golden State. The thunderstorm hit about 18:30 when we were preparing Mountain House Lasagna (after a very heated discussion about how much hot water to add). Scott was out by 21:00, I read the news for a while longer. 

Today's ride: 57 miles (92 km)
Total: 483 miles (777 km)

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Comment on this entry Comment 9
Julian WaldoHow much debate can there be? The instructions are written on the package!

And I'd like to say that your preemptive response was baseless, but you quite accurately anticipated my protest. I don't want Yuri's PMA to become family lore like his supposed map reading prowess!
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4 years ago
Andrea BrownI'm enjoying hearing about your family history in this area. My grandmother's family homesteaded near Fort Benton and I'd love to ride around that area and find the cemeteries where uncles and great-grandparents are buried.
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4 years ago
Jackie McKennanTo Andrea BrownWe’re glad the info we share is useful. Scott and I both loved Fort Benton when we drove through a few years ago. We still remember the statue of Shep on the bank of the Missouri. Pretty cool memorial.
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4 years ago
Jackie McKennanTo Julian WaldoOur camping cups are metric and do not correspond neatly to the measurements specified on the packaging. Which is kind of weird for dehydrated meals for campers.
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4 years ago
Andrea BrownFun fact: my high school band (The Libby Loggers!) was chosen to represent Montana in the Bicentennial Parade in 1976. That same summer we played for the dedication of the Lewis and Clark and Sacagawea statue in Fort Benton. That is the only time I've been there and I thought it was a wonderful place. There was a WWI memorial with the names of soldiers killed, including one from "Graceville" which was named after my grandma Grace Brown. Graceville is no more but it was amazing to see it memorialized that way.
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4 years ago
Susan Cooper Cooper(My grandfather homesteaded a ranch that turned out to include the territory where the Battle of the Rosebud took place, 50 miles south and one week earlier than the more famous Custer’s Last Stand of June 25-26, 1876. His former ranch is now a state park)
Jackie, I remember you telling us this last summer when we were enjoying time with you. Cool fact! Your trip so far sounds very interesting.
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4 years ago
Dixie CannonLacy worked on a rig out of Poplar in 1952 or so.
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4 years ago
Jackie McKennanTo Andrea BrownI’m just now getting caught up on the feedback from readers. Wonderful story about “Graceville” and your participation in the 1976 bicentennial parade. BTW, Scott and I really loved the ride past Libby Dam last year.
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4 years ago
Andrea BrownTo Jackie McKennanAnd you just saw the surface of what is up there in those parts. It’s a huge county with a lot of back roads, hidden lakes, jeweled streams, and beautiful views. But don’t tell anybody, it’s our little secret.
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4 years ago