May 11, 2019
Wind Surfing
Culbertson to Williston, ND
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Jackie’s average speed: 8.8 mpg
Scott’s average speed: 11 mph
Weather: Blustery, overcast, 45-50 degrees
Wind: strong, north/northwest
A cool front with strong north-by-northwest winds blew in overnight. We made our usual breakfast of coffee, tea, oatmeal, plus yoghurt for variety. Knowing we had a mere 45 miles ahead, we felt no urgency about getting on the road early. We dressed for the cold wind and were in it at 09:30. No gazing off in the distance on this day, we would have to “ride intentionally” and steer within our narrow lane on the highway.
We paused after 90 minutes for coffee at a gas station in Baineville, a small town on the easternmost edge of Montana. The north facing door was locked so a gust of wind would not blow it off the hinges. So we entered on the south side and stepped into a nice little café that served hot food. Eleven o’clock was too late for pancakes, Scott’s first choice, so we had cheeseburger soup, chicken strips, and French fries. And coffee. An hour later we were back on good old Highway 2 headed for North Dakota.
Days of riding in the wind presented some fascinating empirical data. While spending all day outside, our minds were analyzing what nature was doing. When pedaling east with the wind coming from the north and northwest, trucks passing from behind could pull us along in their wake, often up hills. Knowing this, we anticipated it and enjoyed it, like a surfer does the wave. Trucks that passed us going the opposite way created a tangle of turbulence that just shook our bikes where the awkward weighty panniers were strapped on. Scott noticed that trucks with snub nose cabs and heavy loads created much more wake than trucks with empty trailers.
During a pause just before the Montana-North Dakota border, I rolled to a stop where Scott was waiting. He saw my grim face and said, “This is hard, but it could be worse. You could be writing talking points.” (I had a job in public relations before retiring). He always knows how to make me laugh.
The first few miles of Highway 2 on the western North Dakota border is less than ideal for cyclists. The six foot shoulder has two feet for the rumble strip, two feet for cycling, and two feet of pavement cut at a 45 degree angle for good drainage. Keeping within that two-foot strip is tricky in the high traffic, windy conditions. On the plus side, Scott and I both thought the drivers were courteous and when it was possible, they moved left to give us space.
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But the most dangerous places in this day’s ride were the bottoms of the long hills outside Williston. The slantwise winds came out of something like a wind tunnel, powerful, unpredictable, and destabilizing. At one point after a break, I was so frustrated, I walked my bike along the side of the road. Scott pedaled around me, knowing that in a few minutes I would conquer my fear and get back on. We had almost 2,500 miles ahead. I had to make it through the next 10 one way or another.
That determination to carry on is essential. However bad the conditions might be for part of the day, the road and conditions invariably change. Eight miles west of Williston, the road turned into a four-lane highway with a wide shoulder. Financed no doubt with proceeds from extracting oil and gas in the state. No more concerns about being knocked down by wind wake with plenty of room for everyone.
We got to Williston (aka “Boomtown USA”) a little after 16:30 and stopped at the annual Band Day festival in the city park. It’s billed as Williston's biggest local celebration, highlighting live performances by professional guest bands, student bands, and bands from neighboring towns. It’s a huge community shindig with a foot race, parade, food, and crafts. It was chilly, but fun to hang out with the locals. We bought two huge bags of kettle popcorn, wondering how on earth we would ever eat it all. I talked to a woman who looked like a teacher and she said that some years it’s been 100 degrees, sometimes it’s been rained out, so cool weather is not a huge concern.
Since the next day would be a down day, we treated ourselves to a Microtel, so we could rest in a little more comfort.
Today's ride: 46 miles (74 km)
Total: 529 miles (851 km)
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