...train to Bamberg and bike to Eltmann am der Main
Today we leave Dresden and will be travelling by train. Over the course of our trip, cycling has been our sole mode of transport, apart from ferries to Sweden and back. We are happiest when our trip allows us to be on our bike as much as possible.
This will be the first step in our return journey to the Reitz farm before we fly home. It is bittersweet, but we are looking forward to once again exploring some of the Main River by bike
It will be a bit of a shock to the system to change from our normal routine of riding for almost 3 months, to taking the train with our fully loaded bike and trailer, and all that goes along with that. The love/hate relationship we have with taking the train is that we must be prepared for the possibility of being denied access to the train as well as the potential of a train car that could be challenging for our big rig in terms of space and access. We have learned to take the train at off-peak times and choose only Regional trains which allow bikes on board and hope that they let us on. Officially, a tandem bicycle is not allowed on the train....not to mention a recumbent tandem. So, we do our best to be super fast and efficient at getting our bike on the train so that we don’t look intimidating or overwhelming to the conductor. If possible, we also choose train routes that begin and end with our journey. The extensive DB train system in Germany is a phenomenal resource for cyclists enabling one to get to far flung destinations.
The first train from Dresden to Hof was good without any challenges.
Easy, same level access and a space for Seavo. So far so good.
The problems began with the second train. Carrying our gear up and down the stairs to the next train platform for the train to Bamberg was not fun with a wheezing, coughing stoker carrying the back of the bike. As usual we got to the train early and embarked before the crew or passengers were onboard.
The elevator on the next track (the black small room) is great for avoiding the stairs. Seavo doesn’t fit...but it is great for all your gear and single bikes. Unfortunately, it was out of order today.
Unlike our preferred type of train with a generously sized bike car and access through wide double doors on the same level as the platform, this train had a single narrow door with 3 steep steps leading to a narrow 90 degree turn into a space which was smaller than our bike. We made it however, with the only casualty resulting in one of our mirrors getting knocked off, as well as the usual bruises to us. The good thing was that there weren’t many bikes and the crew were very mellow and unconcerned about Seavo or the space he took over in the entrance. This section of the train journey is known for its rough, jolting movement around corners and during the journey our poor bike fell over. Oh well, now Seavo has some bruises too!
Taking a deep breath after our exertions. We feel a bit like the fellow who is passed out at the other end of the car.
Barry had a great visit with Michael, a Bamberg resident. Michael has been on an around the world cycling trip and had to interrupt his journey due to family reasons. So far, he has been in South America, Europe and Africa. He will be leaving again soon and will be heading to South Africa. We wish him well and safe travels.
Due to our train being late, we didn’t reconnect with Bamberg as much as we would have liked. As our Pension in Eltmann has limited hours at reception, we decided to head out after a few hours and ride the 25 km to get checked in. It’s funny. As much as we appreciate the train and the distance that we are able to cover in less time, we are usually more tired from a day of train travel than after a day of hard riding.
Bamberg is a city that we really enjoyed when we visited here years ago. There is much to love from its picturesque setting on the Main and Regnitz Rivers, its stunning medieval buildings and of course its unusually high number of excellent breweries dating back centuries. On this July day, there were many tourists, cyclists and groups from River Cruise Boats here as well. With ME not feeling well and having accommodation booked 25 km ahead, we cycled around to see a bit of the Old Town, bought some Bamberg beer to take to our Pension for later and headed out. We’ll return here one day in the off season, perhaps for a Christmas Market.
In the village where we are staying, there is one place to eat, and we are so lucky that this Gasthof, which serves traditional German food, is directly across the street. We couldn’t resist. A local Weissen tastes good after a long day, as well as the schnitzel and roast pork with onions and sauce. Yum!
We went for a walk after dinner to explore Eltmann, the village where we are staying. This sleepy village is charming with historic touches.mThere are limited facilities here for tourists, yet it is situated directly on the Main River, and as we have discovered, there are a couple of places to stay and a skukum place to eat a fine German meal.
Of course, as this is Germany, this village has a historic brewery and their pub had a simple approach which is appealing- good, cheap beer.
Now this is a simple and effective approach - all pints cost the same: €1.90. Weissen, Dunkel, Pils, Radler, alcoholic free.... Whatever you want, they’ve got it.
