Portneuf to Cap Rouge - Exploring the Route Verte in Quebec, Canada by Recumbent Tandem - CycleBlaze

August 4, 2010

Portneuf to Cap Rouge

We decided to stay at this family run motel in Portneuf instead of the Panorama RV Park - 100's of sites for RV's and a few tent sites placed in the back and very expensive. Once again, a motel seemed to offer better value. The rooms at the back of the motel were very small and cheaper, but would not have had room for our bike, so we went for the bigger room which also gave us room to hang laundry from every available spot.

Having our breakfast at the motel in Portneuf
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We got an early start to try to beat the humidity and to make time.... and as usual we didn`t get very far before encountering a village that required a lengthy stop The village of Cap Sante has taken its historic value very seriously and each home had signage explaining its significance centuries ago. Once again we felt like we were in a living museum - unlike our home province of British Columbia, whose history is relatively young, the homes and buildings can date back 3 centuries.

Upon entering the church square, we discovered a theatre, church, rectory and cemetry. Young members of the parish were eager to show us around and the cleric also gave us a lengthy tour. They were very proud of their community and church.

The small village of Cap Sante was a highlight for us. We enjoyed visiting this very old church
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Inside the Cap Sante church
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The church deacon gave us an amazing tour of his church
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We enjoyed meeting the church deacon. He was eager to share his stories about travelling to British Columbia with us.
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Cap Sante church from the trail
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Like our experience at the mill in Trois Riviere, we felt that we were privileged to have such an intimate glance into life in Quebec. Like other Quebecers we have met, they were equally intrigued by our lives, where we are from and more importantly our bike. The hospitality in Quebec has been outstanding.

We met this puppy and his owner in the village square.
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Passed through rolling fields and large dairy farms.

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The firewood is in for the winter
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On this section of the Chemin du Roy there are many farm stands
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Dairy farm
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Corridor du Littoral is a newly finished bicycle path that goes all the way to Cap Rouge and into Quebec City.

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We met this woman at the base of the really steep hill. She was also riding to Quebec City. She was from the U.S. and is riding a Dahon folding touring bike
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A very,very,very steep hill. I rode up and Mary Ellen walked.
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That was a really hard hill!
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A much needed stretch
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At Cap Rouge (just before the hill!) we got stranded at an Esso station by a sudden and violent thunder/lightning storm. The rain was so heavy that the streets soon filled with water.

We were stranded at this gas station during a severe thunderstorm.
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A local woman, Linda, took us under her wing and was determined to find us accomodation. Before we knew it, she had the phone in hand and said to us that we needed "cheap and easy". I asked about B&B's or motels and she said no, you must go to the old Seminary, the campus at Notre Dame de Foy where it would be clean and cheap. She phoned and arranged everything. We were grateful as the storm was to last through the night. Knowing that we had a warm, safe (and cheap!) place to sleep we didn`t mind having to backtrack 10 km up some hills.

At Notre Dame we were given a "couple's" room with a double bed and a lovely view of the St. Lawrence R for $51. The cafeteria was across the square and provided inexpensive, basic food.

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The Chemin du Roy is also a favourite ride for large groups of motorcylists.
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Lunch at Le Coq Roti.
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In Quebec we saw very few of the stores that we have seen in the rest of Canada.
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A maple shack
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Today's ride: 55 km (34 miles)
Total: 653 km (406 miles)

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