Monday 2nd September Rolling on Through Upland Meadows and Forests - Plana Luznice to Jindrichuv Hradec - Retyrement on 2 Wheels - CycleBlaze

September 2, 2019

Monday 2nd September Rolling on Through Upland Meadows and Forests - Plana Luznice to Jindrichuv Hradec

One of the delights of cycle touring is the way an unpromising day can develop into a pleasant and comfortable ride despite one’s negative expectations. Such is today- at 7:00, the group gathered at the bus stop outside hold unfurled umbrellas aloft and wear coats against the strong downpour.

By the time we leave, well fortified by Luznice Hotel’s breakfast, the day, though overcast and cool, is at least drying. And once we find trail 32, though on a local road, there is minimal traffic and it’s an open, quiet and a rolling road. There are a few climbs, but also several long sections of gentle downhill runs that enable us to reach a good speed. We ride with lights on   and wear hi viz vests over our rain jackets and any cars that do pass mostly give us a wide berth and some even slow down.

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The landscape is interesting. We are high up and pass pasture, glide through forests and sweep alongside small lakes. There’s even a castle on a lake near Destina. At Cervena Lhota we stop for an energy burst of chocolate. Towards lunchtime, in one small town square, the farm machinery are already parked up in front of the tavern at 11:30.

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Before we reach Jindrichuv Hradec we have one last climb through a forested road. It’s long, but the gradient is manageable. It’s also one of those hills which has a final steep blip, just when you think you’ve reached the top- to show who’s boss. 

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From here, it’s downhill all the way to the pizza restaurant in the centre, where we devour two large margaritas in a little place that’s doing great business - the pizzas tell us why. By now it’s become colder and slightly wetter- apparently they call this area The Czech Canada because it’s colder, wetter and higher than other places. We’re also interested in some of the museums and buildings in Jindrichuv Hradec and decide to stay and explore.

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Pension Mika comes to our rescue, in a town brimming with pensions. It’s a delightful place looking out over a green treed square with a statue of Jan Hus standing at one end. We are welcomed by the owner’s mother whose English is on a par with our Czech. Sign language seems to work well though. There’s no problem with the bikes, which go in the hallway and the small kitchen diner is perfect for what we need. Which for a start are cups of Earl Grey.  

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It is notable that we have email in this little penzion, yet could not get any at last night’s three star hotel. ( other travel blogs have recorded this phenomenon:the more stars the poorer the internet service). Always good to find one has mail, especially the “first self propelled roll-over” video of little Alexandra. 

We take a walk around the town and notice the buildings with very decorative facades, in a city that was, in the 17th century second only to Prague in size. We miss the Textile Museum which is not open on Mondays but hope we might see it in the morning. We walk past the lake where rowers are skulling and past the bars where another type of skulling is being enjoyed. Then it’s a small climb to the large castle.

Back at our pension, it’s a light tea- our late lunch margaritas are still with us. Ann cooks up our “windfall” apples for a desert with thick yoghurt.

Today's ride: 38 km (24 miles)
Total: 1,626 km (1,010 miles)

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