Along the coast to Berck sur Mer - Riding In My Grandfather's WW1 Footsteps - CycleBlaze

July 23, 2016

Along the coast to Berck sur Mer

Today was a better day of riding. We have found that riding along the coast is quite beautiful and it is becoming less hilly than around Boulogne sur Mer.

The beaches are full of people swimming, wind surfing, sunbathing...and ice cream cones are melting everywhere! The feeling of people relaxing and enjoying their holiday is infectious.

As well as this, we stopped in Etaples at the war cemetery. It takes your breath away due to its enormous size of over 10,000 graves. We were approaching Etaples and before we reached the cemetery, we could see grave stones covering acres and acres of fields. As we didn't know that it was located here, it had quite an impact on us. Etaples, during WWI was the largest British military base in the world and this area was the base for hospitals for the allies. This cemetery has been designated for both men and women who served here, as well as over 660 German soldiers. These cemeteries are sensitively cared for with flowers and thoughtful landscaping, yet they are somber, reflective spaces and you need to take your time to absorb the significance of what you see.

Etaples,the town, is a nice place to spend some time. The fish market and the design of the city make it easy to navigate by bikes.

France is so full of campgrounds that we are constantly surprised at how frequently they pop up while riding. Some communities along the coast may have 5 campgrounds, and even in the height of summer, we never have a problem getting a pitch for our tent.

Our French neighbours at the campground in Condette. We loved their labrador dog, Belle, who also clearly loved her people.
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Belle is off for a walk and bathroom break. We enjoyed chatting with them.
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Our first cycle path in France and we thought it deserved a "selfie thumbs up" from Barry. We have discovered that this cycle path is a joint effort of (Kent) England and France to provide safe cycling in this area. It extends for 70 km. It is a great start.
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Interesting history board about the cemetery and the significance of the military hospitals and the base in Etaples.
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Etaples Military Cemetery - the impact is always profound.
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Knowing that Barry's grandfather fought near here for 4 years keeps him in our thoughts. How did these men, who survived the horrors of this war, come home and carry on with such stoicism?
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In Etaples, by the marina and fish market, a historic walkway of lifesize photographs from the war were on display. This photo shows the men lining up for the lending library.
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These soldiers looked happy enough for the photographer, but we wondered how they managed in such a tight space in their subterranean quarters. Being cat lovers, we can imagine that the cat must have given them comfort, or perhaps it was the other way around, as they probably fed and cared for it.
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Such a haunting photo of the men from the front who were early victims of the mustard gas.
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A side by side tandem. We can tell we are approaching the sea when we see a fun tourist bike like this.
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The English Channel - it is such a beautiful day.
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Mary Ellen couldn't resist getting out of her cycling shoes and walking barefoot in the sand to test the water.
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It's true - the water is warmer than the air temperature. It is at moments like this when you wish you didn't have more km. to cycle as it would be nice to dive in and relax on the beach.
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Today's ride: 47 km (29 miles)
Total: 1,412 km (877 miles)

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