As we prepared for breakfast the sun was shining directly into our room. Although there were plenty of clouds around and the temperature a bit on the cool side, it was going to be perfect weather for cycling to Alessandria today. Breakfast was simple breads, jams, fruit and coffee which suited us just fine. Neither of us was very hungry this morning. Wanting to get an early start before traffic began to pick up and the desire to finish before any afternoon rush, we were riding by 09:30.
Today our ride was mainly on long stretches of flat 'straight as a poker' asphalt. Yesterday, riding into Vigevano on SP206 suggested that maybe a review of today`s routing would be worthwhile. It is a bit surprising, but most of the roads on this flat delta are long straight SP (Strada provinciale) numbered roads. There is not really any way to avoid them except for farming track roads, and they are not really suitable.
Today we rode SP183 and Sp193 and a bit of SS494 which is a state level road. They were all fine, but it was many kilometres without shoulders. For the most part traffic was light but road noise from cars is tiring. The ride today could be characterized as getting from A to B with highlights being the short sightseeing spins through several small Italian towns.
Vigevano seemed to go on until we reached the next town of Gambolo - we were there before we realized that we had left Vigevano. Like most of the small towns you will find a nice square around a wonderful historic church. They are amazing buildings considering the time, engineering and wealth necessary to construct them.
Much of the ride is through the agricultural areas that Piedmont is known for. This time of the year most of the fields had been cut or plowed under but the smell of farming was frequently close by.
These little pop up markets are great. This one was just as we were entering Lomello. You will usually find a cheese, meat and fish stand. This one was perfect to pick up some cheese for lunch. After a sampling his parmesan, we had to have a chunk of that cheese too.
Main square in Mede. We travelled through at exactly noon as the bells completed their mid-day chimes. The sound of the large bells in these towns is wonderful.
At a level crossing the barracades were down so I crossed the road to take a picture of the on coming train that I could see in the distance. This train absolutely flew by at full speed so I was really surprised to see how well timed the shot worked out. This is the front of an older model regional train.
For lunch we stopped in a very small town, Costellaro de Giorgi, at the park in front of a church. It was a quiet spot except for the local dogs who likely do not see many people. After lunch we continued along SP193 before joining SS494 to cross over the broad Po River. Although the SS494 was not really busy we knew that was not where we wanted to be for our final push into Alessandria. Riding through Valenza there was a smaller tertiary road above the town that that took us over the ridge and then down into Alessandria. It was great to leave the main roads and add some hills to the mix.
Alessandria is quite a large town and was busy with traffic leading into the town. It seems the towns that we have been to in Italy have minimal separation for cyclists. Upon arriving we began to seek out a plaza for a beer. After a lengthy search and seeing various parts of Alessandria we could not locate any place that sold draft beer, just many many coffee shops. We decided to give up the search and find our hotel. But just before checking in, Scott found a bar around the corner where we each enjoyed an excellent locally brewed beer.
SS494 bridge crossing the Po also has rail tracks on one side. As you can see there is very little traffic here right now.
¨The Po is the longest river in Italy. It flows eastward across northern Italy starting from the Cottian Alps. The river's length is is either 652 km (405 mi) or 682 km (424 mi), if the Maira, a right bank tributary, is included¨. From the web
Entering Alessandria. There are what appear to have been two large plazas that are now parking lots. The town did not seem to have alot of character or maybe we just missed it.
In Alessandria we stayed in a large, old school, business type hotel. It was a good place to stay, but like the town, not exactly bursting with character. Our dinner spot though, was actually quite special. Not far from our hotel was Hop - Mangiare Di Birra - a craft brew house in this city where we had spent a good hour searching for our post ride refreshments! It had a number of local beers on tap. Scott had the interestingly named ¨Fuck you that`s my name¨ an American styled IPA brewed by the Wyatt Brewing Company in Milan and Pat tried a blonde ale from the local brewer, Canediguerra. The menu was hamburgers by candlelight. A nice way to finish the day in Alessandria.
Tomorrow, we will begin moving west to Asti and again having to watch the weather as some rain has been forecasted for the area.
Today's ride: 65 km (40 miles) Total: 582 km (361 miles)
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Scott AndersonGood luck with the weather! The Piemonte is gorgeous but it can change quickly - overnight it turned grey, cold and foggy on us, and stayed that way. Reply to this comment 1 year ago
Scott FenwickTo Scott AndersonGot us today big time. Neive to Cherasco. Great route in the hills turned into 35 kms of low cloud and rain. Tough day for sure. All good weather forecasts going forward though! Reply to this comment 1 year ago
Scott FenwickTo Jacquie GaudetYes we agree! Stayed in Neive yesterday and it is a wine drinkers paradise. Had many samples and some glasses of great local reds. Lots of fun. Will be looking more closely at the Italy section of the LCB when we get home. Reply to this comment 1 year ago
