April 7, 2023 to April 21, 2023
Mangystau
A pilgrimage into the emptiness
Aktau
Landed in Aktau mid-afternoon with a round of applause from everybody on the plane and excited to start cycling again. Kazakh taxi drivers watched Sebastian and I constructing our bikes before we set out on what was admittedly a underwhelming start to the trip; a busy highway for 30Km in the rain. We rode through deep puddles full of grit which ruined our newly cleaned and serviced bikes into the city where we got lost in an industrial estate trying to find our hostel (it was £4 though so no complaints). Found an amazing restaurant and ate Azerbaijani pilaf and mutton to make up for skipping out the country (this still counts right?). The heating was on full blast throughout the hostel, clearly showing off the cheap price of gas over here, hard to sleep but our laundry dried in no time.
Tried to do a little tourism in the city, hauling our freshly stocked up luggage down to the beach-front and back, it had a feel of the Mediterranean and was pretty unexpected for the country. Many errands and a few Camcas later (a samosa/Cornish pasty?) we set off with intention to cover some miles before sunset and camp out on the steppe. Moments later we were pulled over by a local man, Jauat, who was determined to help us in any way, we were a little relieved with this as it was forecast rain in the night and cycling out of the city in rush hour was not fun at all. It was Ramadan so he couldnt eat with us but he invited us over to his house to meet his family, we waited until sunset drinking milk tea and then feasted on a calorific meal including Kuurdak (a local dish made from lamb lung, meat, potatoes and copious amounts of fat), horsemeat sausages (also very common in Kazakhstan), dried fruits and nuts. I really wished I could speak Russian hearing Sebastian have an in depth conversation with Jauat about the history of the country and culture, need to step up my learning a bit. Felt so grateful for this encounter, it was a perfect first impression for Kazakh people and the country. It might be a little different travelling over the steppe for the next thousand kilometres, but fuelled on Kuurdak and with our gift of fruits and horsemeat sausages we felt ready for it. Was back to the £4 hostel for the night to avoid camping on the flooded steppe during the rain.
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Visually the ride wasnt so exciting; we pedalled for hours with no change in scenery from the flat planes and electricity pylons into the infinity. Was pretty surprised to find out we were going downhill a lot after a completely flat ride from the sea, turns out we were cycling though the largest depression on the earth at 132m below sea level. People gathered at the top to take pictures of the vast dried up lake but then found taking pictures of two bicycles more interesting. After taking a photo of me one man insisted that I take one of him for myself, so here you go...
Rode until sunset and travelled out onto the steppe to find a heard of camels and horses. Ate the remainder of the horsemeat sausages in a stew hoping they wouldn't know, we later found out that they didnt actually contain horse at all, the label stated "cow and bird". Wanted to sleep under the stars but after reading about scorpions and tarantulas in this region we thought it would be better not to.
2 days after our first experience cycling though the steppe Bourzhan from ustirttravel welcomed us in to stay with his lovely family. We tried more new food including fermented camels milk (an acquired taste) and krut (salty kefir balls, also not a fan). He, like many locals here works on the oil rigs but has a side business doing tours to the mind blowing Bozhira.
Shopan Ata
Felt fortunate to visit the pilgrimage site, Shopan Ata during Ramadan with our host Bourzhan. Arriving after sunset, we joined a large group of pilgrims who had travelled long distances to visit this memorial to the sage Shopan Ata. Groups of men and women sat together to eat beshbarmak out of a common pot, despite the language barrier and difference in culture they welcomed us to join for Iftar and to stay the night.
The next day we werefaced with 50km/h headwinds, causing a sandstorm. Not in any rush to startcycling we enjoyed the peace walking around the graveyard and accepting moreinvitations for food and tea. Joined for a ceremony in the cave, again couldnttake any photos but felt very special to be in there. Persian rugs covered thestone walls and two large branches, wrapped in colourful fabrics stood on aplinth to an opening above. The elder wore a traditional fur hat and spoke inKazakh about Shopan Ata.
The next day we were faced with 50km/h headwinds, causing a sandstorm. Not in any rush to start cycling we enjoyed the peace walking around the graveyard and accepting more invitations for food and tea. Joined for a ceremony in the cave, again couldnt take any photos but felt very special to be in there. Persian rugs covered the stone walls and two large branches, wrapped in colourful fabrics stood on a plinth to an opening above. The elder wore a traditional fur hat and spoke in Kazakh about Shopan Ata.
Bozhira
At 2pm we decidedthings aren't getting any better and hit the road. Cycled 8km in an hour withthe terrible headwind whilst being blinded by sand and regretted not staying.Eventually realised 60km more wouldn't be possible before dark and we decidedto hitchhike in a van with a group of young locals who were driving to Bozhira.We jumped in the back and sat in darkness whilst being gassed by leaking petrolfrom the generator along the bumpy road with no idea what was outside.
The van doors finally opened to reveal the beauty of Bozhira, huge rock formations stood through the dust from the sandstorm. We watched in awe and the locals braved the narrow pier through the strong winds to take photos.
Unfortunately due to being at the top of a huge dried up sea we were very exposed and with the van leaving we rode back down to find some shelter. Much easier heading the other direction, we didnt even have to pedal as we rode with the wind (and sand) on our backs down into the lower levels where we found a dried up river to camp in.
The next day riding in the morning light, more and more formations appeared out of the mist as we rode through the dirt track of the dried up sea. On the way encountered a sea of obsidian and fossils scattered around. Encountered no one all morning and enjoyed the peace, there is such a big potential for tourism here but very few people know about it yet.
Beket Ata and the Steppe
20km more to Beket Ata, arrived dehydrated. Wandered down to the monastery first thinking we might find water there but it was a huge walk and people chat along the way making it slow and painful in the heat. Back at the top we joined for milk tea, preparing our self for what was to come.
Fuelled on many biscuits and some horsemeat we rode off into the steppe through a maze of dirt tracks. There was nothing around as far as the eye can see but I loved it, I felt very alone and immersed in the vast nothingness. Riding just after sunset we passed a huge heard of 50+ camels and not far after a large group of horses. It was fascinating being alone in the steppe with these magical creatures. Camped behind a section of wall we found to shelter from the wind and was worried after the rain started that we would be stranded here pushing the bike through mud for days with limited supplies. Luckily the next day the track was rideable and we could make good progress towards the road. Was extra careful after I almost ran over a huge snake on the path, knowing there was no hospital for a long way after traveling 100km into the steppe. Kissed the tarmac after arriving on the road and carried on for an extra 50km with the beautiful tailwind and slept behind a truck stop.
Beyneu
More 50Km/h winds and rain the next day which fortunately were on our backs. 130km flew by pretty effortlessly, the hard part was stopping anywhere, instantly getting cold and wet, rushing to get back on the saddle. A group of cyclists from Kyrgyzstan were passing the other way on a pilgrimage to mecca, pushing the bikes gruellingly into the rain, felt very sorry for them but no time to stop. Arrived into Beyneu and proceeded to ruin a freshly cleaned floor of a hotel as we dripped with mud upon the marble floor. Here we met a couple from Germany cycling a similar route and a French man traveling the other direction (into the wind).
We planned to cycle to the Uzbek border and catch a train from Karakalpakstan, making use of the last bit of tailwind before a week of heavy headwinds. For some reason there were no spaces available from the later station but there were spaces for the full journey from Beyneu. This made no sense at all but we decided to book the tickets from Beyneu. We were told by multiple bike travellers that this 500km section though the steppe should be skipped, even with good weather 5 days seeing nothing but desert doesn't seem appealing, never mind with 30Km/h headwinds forecast for the next week.
Quietly relieved to have a rest day after a long few days of riding we could explore what Beyneu has to offer, it turns out not so much apart from a small bazaar where I clumsily knocked down a stand of diapers with the rear of my bike. Was led by a local to a small local tea house around the back of the bazaar. Two truck drivers, Mishka and Misa bought us some local fish from the Caspian to eat and we sat around drinking milk tea.
Spent the rest of the day editing photos until my mind went numb and needed a break, I wandered around in the main square enjoying the golden hour when I noticed some children playing over the monument. I really wanted to get a photo of them with the perfect light but they were being super shy and ran away, peeking around the corner to see if I was still there. What commenced was an epic game of hide and seek, chasing the giggling kids around and grabbing some great shots. It was so much fun and I loved their innocence, having no electronics to play with, just having fun out on the streets.
Boarded the train at 2:30 for a couple of hours of security checks, It was more relaxed than expected though. Military guards wanted to look though my camera, I am not sure if this was a professional thing or not as when he was looking though the photos he was laughing and showing his friends. They also seemed surprised to see tourists on the train and generally just wanted to chat. Although at 4am with no sleep yet we weren't so chirpy Finally got to sleep when I was awoken by another military officer wanted to check my passport. I was lead to the end of the carriage where he would scan my passport and photograph me with a large menacing black box. Was finally given the clear and could get 2 hours sleep before going through the whole process again on the Uzbek side.
The journey though the steppe was much more enjoyable on the train. It felt like travelling back in time being on this old soviet locomotive. Strangers sat together drinking tea and talking to eachother, children ran up and down the carriage playing and vendors came offering fresh homecooked food (I really kicked myself for not having any cash for this).
On a long stop in one station we were invited to see one of the two goliath engines, pipes and dials clustered the room, as the engine started up in the next locomotive we got a sense of its power. Despite seeing the two engines the train was still extremely slow, it took over 16 hours to get to Nukus (500km away) with all stops included. Plenty of time to edit some photos, learn some more Russian and catch up with writing.
Today's ride: 515 km (320 miles)
Total: 2,945 km (1,829 miles)
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