Day 2: Tour Halifax, then get out of town

August 31, 2003

I got up at 8 AM (6 AM in Chicago), had a leisurely breakfast and a long talk with the California touring cyclist. I stored my panniers in a coin-operated locker in the basement and walked out of the hostel at 9:45. The weather was totally sunny and the temperature was very pleasant already. I walked down to the waterfront and headed north towards the downtown attractions. I passed the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic which has several old tall ships moored along the waterfront.

Tall ships at the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic.

The waterfront passes through the middle of the Halifax business district. At one point I looked up a street and saw the town clock in the distance halfway up Citadel hill.

The Halifax town clock was built in 1803.

Then I walked a short distance to Cable Wharf which seems to be the main tourist area with souvenir shops, seafood markets, and tour boats. Then on to the Historic Properties which is a bunch of tourist shops in renovated 200-year-old warehouse buildings.

I went back to a seafood market in Cable Wharf and had an excellent lunch of broiled haddock, spinach, carrots, potatoes, and corn on the cob. After lunch I walked up the hill to the Citadel and paid the $9 admission fee. It's not very impressive from the outside because earthworks obstruct the view of the stone walls. But it has tall stone walls and lots of cannons on the inside. The Citadel has been the site of four different British forts since 1749, when the British established Halifax as the military headquarters of Atlantic Canada.

Guard in early 19th century period dress at the Citadel entrance.

After leaving the Citadel I walked to the nearby Public Gardens. It was fairly crowded with local people enjoying a beautiful sunny Sunday afternoon. But it was very nice to walk around and enjoy the intricate landscaping.

Then out of the public gardens and through the Spring Garden Road shopping district to a big church.

Spring Garden road is the main shopping street in Halifax.

Church at the bottom of Spring Garden road.

Awesome stone house in downtown Halifax.

Then I went back to the hostel to retrieve my stuff and change into cycling attire. I got away from the hostel at about 4 PM and headed to the ferry terminal. I had to wait 20 minutes for the ferry but enjoyed the view while crossing the harbour to Dartmouth.

Downtown Halifax from the ferry to Dartmouth.

I got on the road in Dartmouth at 4:30 PM and followed highway 207 through the city. The traffic was fairly heavy and there are some big hills getting through Dartmouth. It took more than an hour to get out of suburban Dartmouth and into the relatively flat coastal area. I took a rest stop at Lawrencetown Beach Provincial Park which had a lot of surfers in thick wet suits. I later learned that this is the best surfing spot in eastern Canada. Then about 1 km later I turned inland and rode 10 km to camp at Porter's Lake Provincial Park. I arrived just a few minutes before sunset. Most of the 156 campsites were occupied and there were many screaming kids, too much traffic, and mosquitoes. But it got fairly quiet after 10 PM. Hopefully places won't be so crowded when I get farther away from the big city. The weather was sunny all day with light wind and a high temperature of about 22C (72F). Perfect. I felt pretty good except that I pulled a muscle in my back while setting up the tent.

Distance: 37.0 km (23 mi) (4km on gravel)

Average speed: 19.2 km/h (12.0 mph)

Maximum speed: 59.8 km/h (37.4 mph)

Climbing: 263m (868 ft)

Hiking: about 10km (6.2 mi) walking around Halifax

Today's ride: 37 km (23 miles)
Total: 90 km (56 miles)

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