The morning is cloudy but dry and I set off from my B&B in Ramberg towards Moskenes; not too far. The weather is still too dismal to get good photos, however, I do pause at pretty Reines to admire the view again. I've plenty of time to get the 2pm ferry from nearby Moskenes to Bodø, on Norway's mainland.

The ticket is 153K - roughly 15 euros - but my bike travels free and there are a few others cyclists waiting. One guy is telling most of the others he's riding from the very top to the bottom: Nordkapp to Kristiansand. He makes it sound like he's the first to ever do it, or even think about it. 

My priority is quality rather than quantity and I wonder why I haven't seen crowds of two-wheeled tourists on my fabulous trip so far. Maybe it's the expense. I did see a number of bulky RVs and one Norwegian said many locals don't really like the occupants, as they don't spend much money during their trip - obviously sleeping in their own vehicles as opposed to paying for a robuer. Some, he muttered, even bring all their food with them.

Once the ferry arrives in Bodø, I linger around for the 9pm overnight train south to Trondheim, at first sitting in the cafe above the station, using its wi-fi, later chatting to an American cycle tourist also waiting for the train. 

The fare costs 965 Norwegian K plus extra for my bike - 50% of my seat price. However, there's a ceiling of 175 krone for bikes (a rule then just implemented) so that's what I pay: a total of something like 100 euros. I suppose I'm saving on a hotel room.