Going to the Sun Road - Northwest Trails - CycleBlaze

June 3, 2023

Going to the Sun Road

A photo gallery

I remember punching through the clouds on Going to the Sun Road in Glacier National Park 35 years ago on a trip with my family. We were astonished at the scene of towering mountains, glaciers, waterfalls and forested valleys. Completed in 1933, it took more than two decades to plan and build the road. It spans 50 miles from the west to the east end of the park and ascends more than 4,000 feet to cross the Continental Divide at Logan Pass.

There’s a short window in the spring when the 16 mile section from Avalanche Creek is still closed to cars but open to bikes on the west side up to the pass. When we saw that we might be able to ride it in early June with no cars at our elbows, Glacier became stop #1 on our tour of the Northwest. 

We’ve been training for this ride for months, climbing every ridiculous hill that we could find around home. As our departure date got closer it started to look unlikely that we would get to go all the way up this early in June. The snowplows have been working to clear the road and getting close to the top, but for weeks the park website has shown the “Avalanche Barrier” sitting around Bird Woman Falls, about 5 miles short of the summit. It was still there the last time I checked the site two days ago. 

So we’re stunned when the ranger at the west entrance tells us the road just opened all the way to Logan Pass. It’s Saturday, the crews have finished up their work for the week and it’s now safe to ride.

Enough chatter, let’s go see it.

Starting out from the west entrance less than a mile from our motel in West Glacier Village. Yippee, we get to climb all the miles!
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Our first stop is at Apgar Village to rent a can of bear spray for the day, recommended for hiking and biking in the park.
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A more effective deterrent than a firearm. If a bear is charging you, you don’t have to be an expert enough marksman to hit it between the eyes, you just have to spray it at the bear.
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Morning mist on the southern end of Lake McDonald at Apgar Village
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Most people biking on the road drive up to Avalanche Creek where the car-free section starts, or catch a shuttle. Regrettably, we are not most people. The 11 mile section along Lake McDonald is scraped off for repaving this summer. It’s a tedious slog, dodging cars, potholes, ledges and gravel. Drivers seem patient. Many of them are carrying bikes so we figure they are cyclists on their way to the parking lot at Avalanche Creek. Still, do not recommend.

Pretty views along Lake McDonald, but we’re fixated on the road.
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Scott AndersonUgh. Makes for an interesting photo though.
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1 year ago
After 8 or 9 miles of the grind, we take a break at the Lake McDonald Lodge. Looks like a great spot for dinner on the way back.
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You can rent a boat, fish, take a tour or just wander from the dock at Lake McDonald Lodge
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After a couple more nasty miles, smooth pavement at last!
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Along the Middle Fork of the Flathead River above Lake McDonald
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This sweet-faced Mule Deer paid me no mind
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We’re 16 miles and almost 2 hours into the ride when we get to the Avalanche Creek parking lot where the smart people are starting.
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Bikes only past the gate
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Ahhhhh
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At noon there are lots of people going in both directions. I wonder how many of them been all the way to the top and come down already.
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A few miles past the gate, Barry takes off. Ride your ride!
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Massive tunnel
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Hairpin turn at the Loop, 7 miles from the gate
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I love this photo of Barry. He waited for me at the Loop, but not for long.
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It’s been cloudy much of the way, but the sun is starting to break through here and there
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Zoned out on the scene as I chug along at 3 mph
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Bird Woman Falls from a distance. I passed what appeared to be the dismantled avalanche barrier before I got to the falls.
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Bird Woman Falls above the road....
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...and flowing out from under the road
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Mount Cannon on the left, Heaven’s Gate to the right
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We saw tons of people with their children, even going up to the top - in trailers, on bike seats, on Tagalongs, on their own bikes. Two people were towing children on their own bikes with a leash. Much respect to them all.
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Triple Arches Bridge
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One gorgeous scene after another
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It’s getting colder and snowier, I can’t be far from the top
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Four hours, 16 miles and 3,200 feet up from the Avalanche Creek gate, I see the sign for Logan Pass!
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Rachael AndersonCongratulations! When we climbed the pass on June 23, 1990 there were 30-40 feet high snow drifts on the side!
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1 year ago
Together again at the top of the Road. He’s been here almost an hour, waiting patiently, as he does.
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As we start back down, the clouds are parting and more water flows over the road
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Coasting down past all the beauty again
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While stopped I saw the two kids in front fly past me whooping with maniacal faces
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Further down, a sunnier, warmer, beautiful cruise
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At 5 pm as we get closer to the gate, plenty of people are still heading up
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I have no words
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Past the gate and past the paved part of the road we’re back to the slog. Is it dinner time yet?
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Yes, yes it is dinner time. We’ll let the traffic clear out for awhile and hang out here. We get a table at the Lodge right away and have a proper meal, finished off with huckleberry pie.
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Nine more miles gets us back to the smooth road and a last look at the southern end of Lake McDonald.
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We started our ride this morning at 8:30 am and got back to the room 66 miles later at 8:30 pm. What an absolute thrill. Unforgettable.

Last pic! My friend Paula MacMann wore this awesome jersey one time when she biked up this road. When she heard we were coming here she gave it to me. I’m ready to pass it on to the next lucky rider. If you’re going there, hit me up.
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Genny FoxHi, my friend Kelly Iniguez sent me a link to this pg of your journal. Stunning! And I am hoping to ride Going to the Sun on June 13th, if the stars align correctly and it is open to bikes only on that date. IAC, I would be interested in your Jersey if it is a women’s M or L and, of course, would then pass it along to the next lucky gal. Let me know. Genny
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8 months ago
Janice BranhamHi Genny. I'm so excited for you. It's an amazing ride. The jersey is a M or L, can't remember which but I can check when we get home in a couple weeks. Email me your address to jbranham99 at gmail.com and I'll be happy to send it to you.
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8 months ago
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Today's ride: 66 miles (106 km)
Total: 98 miles (158 km)

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Comment on this entry Comment 6
Scott AndersonThat’s so awesome. Congratulations!

I didn’t realize they open it for bikes only at the start of the season now, like they do in Oregon at McKenzie Pass. We were lucky enough to cross over on the first weekend it was open 33 years ago, but it was open to cars too and we had to be off by 9AM so we started biking while it was still dark. We were the only bike on the road.
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1 year ago
Rachael AndersonIsn’t it an amazing going down! It feels like you coast forever!
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1 year ago
Gregory GarceauWell done on conquering Logan Pass. When I rode up and over the pass ten years ago, I didn't see a single bike rider and not many cars either. Of course, the trade-off for such peace and tranquility was that I had a cold rain all day long. I didn't take a single picture, so it was nice to see yours to help me remember it.

I do, however, have pictures of scenery along much of the rest of your route in a couple of my Cycleblaze journals. I think you're going to really like the Palouse. Yes, it's farmland, but it's nothing like the farmland we know in Missouri and Minnesota. And the Wawawai Road down to the Snake River and beyond is AMAZ . . . well, I better not spoil it for you.

Have fun.
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1 year ago
Janice BranhamTo Gregory GarceauThanks Greg! I'd love to see your pics of the Palouse but lack the secret code to sniff then out. Any help is appreciated
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1 year ago
Gregory GarceauSorry, here's the link I should have provided in the original comment. This page, and the next few have Palouse and Snake River pics & info.

https://www.cycleblaze.com/journals/holyland/they-already-brought-in-the-sheaves/
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1 year ago
Janice BranhamTo Gregory GarceauOh wow, I think we're going past all those places. Thanks for the peep show. Can't wait to see it!
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1 year ago