To Chippewa Falls - The Road to Rome, Part One: America - CycleBlaze

June 6, 2021

To Chippewa Falls

It’s cooling down slightly and we anticipate an easy ride today, so we feel safe in waiting around until 7 for the complementary breakfast at our motel.  It was well worth waiting for - some scrambled eggs, gravy (bypassed), some colorful kiddie cereal (likewise rejected), and a waffle.  And coffee.  It was a shame that the Feeshko wasn’t around to offer something more exciting.

It is nearly 9 when we finally get underway.  Warm already - at least 75 - but comfortable due to a brisk southwest wind that by midday will amp up to a steady 15-20 mph.  Ideal for us, since we’re generally headed northeast.  We anticipate having an easy time of it as we leave town and immediately hop on the Chippewa River State Trail, which we’ll follow for almost the next thirty miles.

Leaving Durand, in the right direction. We’ll have the benefit of that southwest wind all day.
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Kelly IniguezThat looks like an old movie theatre. A little google research showed it closed in 2013 . . . . they probably couldn't afford the change to digital. That's a guess. I couldn't find much info.
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2 years ago

The Chippewa River State Trail is a 30 mile long rails-to-trails conversion of an old Milwaukee Road line abandoned in 1980.  The grade is uniform and virtually flat, gaining only a few hundred feet for its entire length. It roughly parallels the course of the Chippewa River, alternately passing through shaded woods and clearings.  For much of the way we bike through a relatively straight tunnel of green with limited views but abundant protection from the sun and the heat - perfect for a day like today. 

Today the trail is very quiet.  We pass perhaps a dozen bikes going the other direction in three hours.  Rachael sees a doe and fawn, a variety of ground squirrels and chipmunks dash off the trail, and a muskrat or marmot lumbers away in the distance as we approach.

The Chippewa River State Trail starts right at the edge of downtown Durand.
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On the CRST. Except to cross a rural lane every mile or so we don’t have to watch out for cars for the next 30 miles - or for much of anything else either.
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A bit of artwork on the CRST. Tempting, but we’ve only been biking about a half mile so far.
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The view looks pretty much like this the whole way, with minor variations. On a hot day like this we think it’s a pretty good look.
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After 7 miles the smooth pavement ends and we come to 13 miles of somewhat rougher asphalt before returning to a smoother surface at the eastern end.
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On the Chippewa River State Trail.
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On the Chippewa River a State Trail. Every now and then we actually get to see the river.
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Around noonish we approach Eau Claire and Rachael spots an ice cream and sandwich shop right beside the trail.  We’re out of the trees again and it’s feeling warmer, so this feels like a good spot to break up the ride.  I choose well, and my fishwich and pint of milk hits the spot.  Rachael orders an ice cream and small salad, and looks distressed when a chocolate coated ice cream ball the size of a grapefruit arrives at the table.  I help her a bit, but still it’s all she can do to finish half of it by the time her salad arrives - and the salad too is enormous.  An embarrassing amount of food.

Say aah!
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The CRST continues on for another few miles, crossing the river once on the way into Eau Claire and then again on the other side.  The trail ends under that designation at Phoenix Park, but seamlessly transitions into another rails-to-trails conversion, the Old Abe State Trail, which continues on for the final eleven miles to Chippewa Falls.

The Old Abe has a different character than the Chippewa River Trail.  It’s still flat and straight, and it’s well surfaced the whole way.  It’s also much more open, and there is virtually no shade.  And, most importantly, today we’re biking virtually straight downwind.  We’re blasted along effortlessly the entire way, and arrive at our Chippewa hotel at about 2. 

The Chippewa River State Trail crosses the river and enters Eau Claire on the old railway bridge.
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Entering Eau Claire.
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Leaving Eau Claire. Same old river, different bridge.
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In Phoenix Park, a riverfront park at the confluence of the Chippewa and Eau Claire rivers.
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In Phoenix Park.
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Banbury Place, a commercial/residential/retail complex in Eau Claire, is the latest incarnation of the former Uniroyal tire factory. For much of the last century this was one of the largest tire manufacturers in the country.
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The Banbury Place Guard Swan. Now that’s definitely distinctive - I’ve never seen a guard swan before.
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Bruce LellmanThat almost looks like tinfoil. There was a restaurant here in Portland that was famous for wrapping up leftovers in tinfoil in animal shapes. Are you sure it's not someone's really big doggie bag they left there by accident? Because, as you said, I've never seen a guard swan before.
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2 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Bruce LellmanOoh, or maybe it’s filled with chocolate, like a giant Hershey’s kiss.
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2 years ago
Jen RahnTo Bruce LellmanMonteaux's! I had frog legs there one time.

Also .. I think the swan is a good choice for a guardian. I've heard stories about them attacking kayakers .. a group of people that are known to be more Hostile than cycle travelers.
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2 years ago
Bruce LellmanTo Jen RahnOh so close. It was Bistro Montage. Sadly they were a Covid casualty.
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2 years ago
On the Old Abe State Trail that connects Eau Claire and a Chippewa Falls. Today this was an effortless ride, pushedalong by a 20 mph tailwind. Our biggest challenge was to try to keep pace with the shadows of passing clouds as they raced away from us.
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Video sound track: Aeolian Tale, by Oregon

Our room wasn’t available yet when we arrived, so we sat around the hotel lobby for an hour and kept cool until it was.  Then we relocated to our room and just kept loafing until dinner time.  It’s Sunday, and with most of the interesting eateries in town closed we walked up to the West Hill Bar & Grill. It’s noticeably cooler this evening, and almost pleasant to be out walking.  Maybe the worst of the hot weather is behind us for awhile.  And a Chippewa Falls itself, at least in the historical center of the town, is quite attractive and interesting.

The West Hill Bar & Grill is a lively place with a very blue collar feel.  We enjoy our meal, keep our political perspectives to ourselves, and then walk back to the room.  

The Farm Store, Chippewa Falls.
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Anybody need a used car?
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Kelly IniguezSpeaking of used cars - you bought the Raven just in time, with all of the COVID shortages. A friend in Brians Head, Ut said he spoke with a fellow whose 2018 Ford F-150's engine needed replaced under warranty. six months. No problem, they would just turn it in and get a new truck. They made the trek to St. George to the dealership. There were four new trucks to choose from. Four. Jacinto said that's plenty - they only wanted one!
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2 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Kelly IniguezYou’re right, Kelly. We were really lucky. The Raven was the only likely candidate we saw within driving distance of Tucson, and it was right at the same dealership I’d taken the Jetta to. Kismet.
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2 years ago
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Chippewa Falls is the home of Leinenkugel’s Brewery, established by German immigrants in 1867 and still operating under the sixth generation of the family.
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Chippewa Falls is livened up by colorful vintage bicycles placed prominently on downtown street corners.
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In Chippewa Falls.
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In West Hill Bar & Grill. I look forward to the day when I can look on a scene like this without thinking of the likely political persuasion of everyone I’m seeing.
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A deluxe combo pizza, and a Leinenkugel dark ale. And I still haven’t lost my glasses!
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Rachel and Patrick HugensLooks like a great trail!
Racpat
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2 years ago

Ride stats today: 42 miles, 600’; for the tour: 244 miles, 6,100’

Today's ride: 41 miles (66 km)
Total: 243 miles (391 km)

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