Donolavy: A long slow climb in the rain

August 26, 2015

I left Besenova promptly after breakfast, with the idea that I wouldn't dawdle and waste any time today, as rain was predicted in the afternoon and it was already overcast.

I headed to Ruzomberok, where I would pick up the highway heading south. The ride there was mostly bike path and pleasant. Ruzomberok is a good-sized city. The initial approach was not impressive, passing a huge dump.

I allowed myself a stop for coffee, as the coffee with breakfast barely passed for coffee. Then I found myself in front of an Orange store. Orange is one of the big names in wireless here. I had decided to pass up a SIM card for Slovakia, but since it was right there, I went in. I bought a SIM card for 7 euros. It has a 7 euro allowance with it, and I've already forgotten what rate internet is charged. Oh, well. It should last me the few days I still have in Slovakia. I actually don't have service now, and I hope that's just due to coverage on the mountain top where I am.

After buying the SIM, I found my way out of the city. I was worried about riding on a main highway, but my Garmin did a good job of keeping me on the cycle path that roughly followed the highway. It was still cycle route C! I need to look it up. Maybe all cycle routes are labeled C.

The route was sometimes paved, and sometimes double track.

It took me psst some beautiful spots I would have missed on the road. I would have lingered at this picnic spot if I wasn't worried about the rain.

Picnic spot along the cycle path. It's on a river, too.

Sometimes it became just single track.

It's hard to make good time on this path, but it's still cycle route C.

It went through some farms

and rejoined the highway just before the town of Liptovska Osada. I had a quick snack there. Heading out of town, there was a police blockade. Fortunately the policeman spoke English. He said the road was closed, but a bicycle could get through. I asked whether it would be difficult, and whether he thought the rain would be a problem, and he just shrugged. I asked where the next hotel would be, if I need a bailout option. He said it would be Donolavy. Since that's where I am, you can guess that I needed the bailout.

Liptovska Osada is the start of a climb to nearly 1000 meters, with a total gain of somewhere near 800 m. It started off quite gently. I pedalled along, thinking that I shouldn't have been avoiding the main highways. Of course, traffic was light because the road was closed ahead. It was sprinkling lightly. After a couple of miles, the road got steeper and the rain got heavier. Traffic also picked up, looking like the police block below had been released. I pulled over to let a long line of vehicles go by, and then kept riding. The road got even steeper, and I got even wetter. I didn't get out my rain jacket, because I was working up a sweat and was warm despite the air temperature dropping to 60 F. About 2 miles from the summit, which is at Donolavy, I hit my limit. I got off and started pushing the bike. I pushed most of the remaining distance, and took a room at the first penzion I came to.

Penzion Damisport is a nice place, despite the lack of research that went into choosing it. Its over a sporting goods store that does ski rentals in winter and bike rentals in summer, and a restaurant. My room is all wood, and feels like a ski chalet. There are 2 beds, plus a loft with 2 more beds. I think I'll use just one.

Donolavy is a ski town. There are some hikers about, but I'm sure the weather is keeping the activity level low today.

For my sister. Some kind of annual sled dog competition. The US is not represented in the countries listed.

View from the balcony of my room, looking in the other direction.

I'm looking forward to the descent tomorrow. I'm out of the High Tatras, so I *think* this was the last of the big climbs in Slovakia.

Today's ride: 42 km (26 miles)
Total: 1,569 km (974 miles)

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