Day 5: Orderville to Panguitch

May 12, 2022

During summer tours I try to get on the road before 8:30. But it's not summer yet. There's a cool spell, and the elevation is high. The temperature was 30F/-1C this morning. It was still chilly when I got on the road at 9:35.

The day starts along the Virgin river, gaining 1000 feet elevation with long but gentle grades. Through Orderville, then the smaller town of Glendale.

US 89 has relatively heavy traffic, but mostly has a wide paved shoulder. One section near the summit has an extremely narrow shoulder, but no rumble strip.

US 89 climbing to noticeably greener high elevation.

I had a gentle northwest headwind all day. No worries about overheating. The high temperature was 62F. Clouds build late in the afternoon, but don't threaten rain.

The grade is steeper after US 89 turns away from the river, with two mercifully short 6% grade pitches leading up to the summit.

Final view of Virgin River as US 89 climbs away from the river.

This campground has a view similar to Bryce Canyon National Park.

I pedaled this route in the opposite direction 30 years ago in May 1992 during my first trip in Utah. It was pouring rain from Bryce Canyon to Mt. Carmel Junction, so I couldn't see very well. This time I have blue sky and the sun behind my back. I can see very well.

There is no summit sign at the US 89 summit, but there are many other signs. It's rare to have a highway intersection and gas station at a mountain summit. I have climbed a lot today but I would have to climb much more if I turned left and pedaled up to Cedar Breaks National Monument. That road goes above 10,000 feet elevation.

The 7482 foot (2281 m) elevation summit is the intersection of two scenic byways.

At the unmarked summit I leave the Pacific Ocean watershed and enter the Great Basin. For the next 13 days, not one drop of water I will see will go to an ocean. Instead the water evaporates in the basin.

The descent is long but quite gentle. Not as steep as the grade I ascended. I quickly started following the Sevier river downstream. I will follow the river for 3 days. It's a major basin river, bigger than the Virgin river.

I also started seeing impressive red cliffs to the east. They looked great in the afternoon sun.

Benjamin Myerson informed me that these are the Sunset Cliffs, the western slope of the Paunsaugunt plateau.

I thought these red cliffs are in Bryce Canyon National Park but Benjamin Myerson says it's Dixie National Forest. Bryce is farther east.

The red cliffs were behind me as I approached Panguitch. I'm traveling out of red rock country.

Once again, I see that Panguitch is a Mormon Pioneer National Heritage Area.

Panguitch is bigger than Orderville, actually has a downtown strip. It's a charming and interesting town. I felt miserable when I arrived, but two Advils helped immensely.

Dinner was at the 1882 Smokehouse Cafe only 1 block from my motel. I like towns that have all the necessary services close together.

This is a good evening for neon signs. A sign says that the 1928 GEM theater played the first "talkie" movie in southern Utah.

GEM theater is also a rock shop and cafe.

Blue Pine Motel is one of several motels in Panguitch, which functions as a gateway town to Bryce Canyon National Park. They are all old and rustic. The $79 room has a fridge, microwave, and A/C that wasn't needed.

Today had the biggest ascent of the tour, taking me to the highest summit of the tour. Panguitch is the highest overnight destination of the tour at 6624 feet (2002 m) elevation.

The remainder of the tour will have more valley riding and less mountain climbing.

Distance: 47.2 mi. (75.5 km)
Average Speed: 8.1 mph (13 km/h)
Ascent/Descent: +2497/-1270 ft. (+761/-387 m)
Miles 103-149 on the route map

Today's ride: 47 miles (76 km)
Total: 172 miles (277 km)

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Scott AndersonI’d forgotten how high up Panguich is. Ive always thought of it as a valley town. I’ve biked through it twice, both times after dropping 4,000’ to it from Cedar Breaks.
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1 year ago

George HallSimilar to Scott's comment; I stayed at Panguitch after first climbing to Cedar Breaks from Cedar City on the Western Express route. The climb up from Cedar Breaks is substantial, but the descent to Panguitch is fantastic! We stayed at the Canyon hotel, 1 block north of your hotel. I remember it well - your journal is bringing back memories.
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1 year ago