Poitiers to Saint-Pierre

June 10, 2018

I got off to an early start today, leaving before Anne and Sebastian were up. A quick detour up to central Poitiers for coffee, croissants and a sandwich for the road - and I was on my way. I was headed southwest in the general direction of Périgueux, which I planned to reach in two days. After a big overnight storm, the day started bright and sunny. I passed through a Sunday market in Nieuil L'Espoir, where white asparagus was prominently featured. Soon thereafter I came across a sign marking a more recent time in French history: the The French Demarcation Line. The Demarcation Line was established by the Armistice reached after the fall of France in 1940 and denotes the boundary between Nazi-occupied France and the Free Zone. In 1942, Germany invaded the Free Zone and occupied all of France.

Asparagus season in France, where white asparagus is greatly appreciated

The French Demarcation Line: Remember you who pass by that here was the start of Free France

The route continued through mostly open farmland and small French villages. I stopped at Saint Laurent de Lourdes for a snack and soon rejoined the Vienne River south of Breux. About a mile after crossing the river, the planned route directed me onto an unpaved cycle path running parallel to the river. I was hesitant to take the path due to the recently abundant rainfall and likely muddy conditions. Using the bike mode of Google Maps, I found what appeared to be an alternate road heading in the same general direction - and I set off. The road climbed steeply above the river, offering some nice views of distant villages. After about 1.5 miles, however, the paved road ended at a large house where the owner was working on his car. I continued past him with a friendly Bonjour, but was almost immediately faced with another unpaved tract through the woods. I went back to ask the gentleman for help with directions/options. After some thought, he directed me down a footpath, which he said would lead to a good surfaced cycle path. Seriously, a footpath. Undaunted, I led Vivien George carefully through the underbrush and down the muddy path, which eventually intersected with the original unpaved cycle route I had shunned not more than an hour beforehand! The cycle path did provide a passable surface, but at times resembled a single-tract mountain bike route more than a touring bike route. After dodging mud and water puddles for more than two miles, I took a short break for water and noticed a paved road paralleling the wooded tract. A quick look at Google Maps indicated the paved road would intersect with the wooded tract a couple of miles ahead - so I jumped on it and was soon in Moussac and heading south. A few miles later, I cruised into L'Isle-Jourdain and found a delightful spot for a proper Sunday lunch.

Snack stop in Saint Laurent de Lourdes on a quiet Sunday morning

New friends at Le Louky restaurant in L'Isle-Jourdain

I lingered a long time over lunch, enjoying conversation and camaraderie with the couple at the adjoining table and the restaurant owners. The couple live in a castle in Queaux, about 8 mile north of L'Isle-Jourdain, and they invited me to come visit any time. By the time we all left, the day had clouded up and a storm was threatening. France has been deluged with rain and floods over the past two weeks, yet I had been relatively lucky in skirting/avoiding getting in a downpour. It was not to be today. It began to rain in earnest when I was about 7 miles from the B&B. It had stopped raining by the time I arrived, but it was good to get out of my soggy kit and enjoy a nice dinner and cup of tea with my English hosts Tia and Robert.

Today's ride: 47 miles (76 km)
Total: 448 miles (721 km)

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