Bourg-Saint-Maurice to Moûtiers

June 8, 2025

via Col du Petit Saint-Bernard and Col du Tra

An epic day! In fact, two days in one!

Yesterday was the day we had planned to do an out-and-back ride up Col du Petit Saint-Bernard. But the weather was abysmal and we didn’t.

Today, however, the weather was forecast to be improving, with no rain. The peaks were still shrouded in clouds, but the clouds were beginning to lift.

What if we left our bags at the hotel, rode up and down Col du Petit Saint-Bernard, and then carried on to Moutiers? There were 3 options to get to Moutiers: our planned route over Col du Tra (intended to be more interesting than the flat route along the Isère), the relatively flat route along the Isère, or the train. And tomorrow was planned as a rest day in Moutiers, with an optional outing to the Thermes in La Léchère. Let’s do it!

First, though, a plug for Hotel Arolla. Despite the “old French hotel” bed, you know, the one with the longitudinal sag in the middle, we really liked this place. Good location, decent breakfast, friendly and helpful proprietor. No problem with storing our bags in the ski room (where our bikes had been), and there’s a separate washroom with shower for checked-out guests to freshen up after their day’s activities before heading off. Nice!

The main road through town was dug up for a couple of blocks in the direction we needed to go, but it wasn’t a problem to get through on our bikes on a Sunday morning. Then it was 31 km up and 31 km back down, all at a pretty steady grade of around 5%. For me, the longest continuous climb and the longest continuous descent I think I’ve ever done.

I didn’t take many photos on the climb because the peaks were still hiding and I figured they’d look better later, on the way down. Of course, on the way down, I was first too cold and then my hands too numb from braking…

It was reasonably warm going up as far as La Rosière, the ski station on the French side of the pass. Then the road makes a 90° turn to the northeast and you are in thd wind. A tailwind today, if you’re going up towards Italy. Cyclists coming down, though, looked very cold. Most had only a windbreaker, but one large, probably supported, group, all had Goretex jackets, leg coverings, buffs or toques, and warm gloves. They still looked cold!

We aren’t going to Col d’Iseran but this is the last opportunity to take a different route if you need to get to the other side. Amazing when I think about how many roads there are in these mountains.

Typical view on the way up. The road looks wider because there’s a short pullout here.

The mountain was in view when I decided to get out my camera, but the clouds were moving fast! Just past thd 90° turn after La Rosière.

Almost at the top! Or so it looks. Maybe 4 km to go.

Getting closer! People have gotten out of their cars to take photos of themselves against the snow. The pass opened May 28, less than 2 weeks ago.

Al had all his layers on by the time I got to the top. We continued to the hospice on the Italian side but didnt feel like eating. I found a sheltered spot to put on my layers and we headed down, stopping for a few photos and then for the snack we’d brought in La Rosière. We saw only one café open in La Rosière; everything else was closed but the clean washrooms in the TI were open.

Al took this while I was still warm from the climb.

Crossing into Italy but no gelato today!

A little chapel and a statue of, presumably, Saint Bernard.

I had all my layers on for the descent too and the windy part at the top was still chilly.

Just above La Rosière is a plan d’orientation in a roadside playground for little kids.

Back in Bourg-Saint-Maurice, we had a late lunch at a restaurant near the Gare SNCF, where almost every outdoor table was occupied by other cyclist and motorcyclists. Then back to our hotel to collect our bags. While we were loading our bikes, two motorcyclists rode up, saw the “hotel complet” sign, said “merde!”, and rode off. Glad we’d booked ahead as the 11-room hotel seemed pretty full every night of this Pentecost weekend.

Lunch. I had a giant salad with slices of diot (the local sausage), hard-boiled egg, Beaufort cheese, greens, and some other stuff. Al had a burger. We both treated ourselves to small beers.

Both of our potential cycling routes to Moutiers started with the voie verte as far as Aime (which is as far as it goes). At Aime, we’d make our decision.

Unfortunately, before we got to Aime, I had a little crash. I must have looked away, I don’t know, but I suddenly noticed that my front wheel was very close to the edge of the paved path. I tried to correct but the wheel slid off the edge of the path, a drop of about 8 cm, and I went down on the asphalt. Just bruised and a few scrapes, luckily. My gloves did their job and got ripped in the process, and my new jersey is ripped at the elbow. (I’m not crying about that though, because it was a custom order for a group I’m a member of and one of the colours is wrong—so we are all being sent replacements free of charge. This one will be converted to short sleeves when I get home.)

Nevertheless, I decided I could still do Col du Tra since it was my elbow that got bruised, not my leg. It was a pleasant climb, though a bit much on top of our day so far, but it kept us off the valley highway and showed us the pretty village of Longefoy. After the summit at Notre Dame du Pré came another long descent with lots of tight hairpin turns. At the bottom, Les Plaines, we turned onto the Route des Nantieux, which took us past a little trout farm and kept us off the highway until there was no other option.

On 25 July 2025, Stage 19 of Le Tour will start in Albertville and YVR route includes Col des Saisies, Col du Pré, and Cormet de Roselend before finishing with a climb up to Plagne Villages. well above this point and not the wsy we are going today.

A spiky-looking flower seen on a rest-the-hands stop on the descent.

Chapelle Saint-Jacques, as seen from Les Plaines.

We only ate about half—the rest will be tomorrow’s lunch. Nice to have a fridge.

Our little apartment in Moutiers I’ll describe tomorrow. For tonight, it was pizza and (more) beer at a little place that was both close and open this Pentecost Sunday evening.

Heart

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Today's ride: 104 km (65 miles)
Total: 628 km (390 miles)

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Scott AndersonThat's scary about your fall. Thank goodness you bounce easier than us old folks do!
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6 days ago

Jacquie GaudetTo Scott AndersonI don’t bounce, sadly. But my mind has a tendency to wander.
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6 days ago

Kirsten KaarsooGlad that the injuries were minor. That was a big day of climbing. Well done.
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6 days ago

Jacquie GaudetTo Kirsten KaarsooMy ego hurts the most! But I thought I’d forestall any questions about my ripped jersey.
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6 days ago

Rich FrasierOuch! Glad you were able to keep going!
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6 days ago

Margie AndersonGlad to know you're ok and keeping on after your crash. Pizza is great comfort food!
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1 day ago