Day 22 - Wehringen to Kaufering ... then Fussen - 9 1/2 Weeks - Copenhagen to Lecce 2019

October 10, 2019

Day 22 - Wehringen to Kaufering ... then Fussen

How About A Little S&M?

Thinking back to our namesake movie, about three weeks into their affair, John started to take a dark turn. Elizabeth recognised what was happening, but it was subtle, at first, and she was intruiged. She kept going.

We saw the movie. We know how it ends. We decided to pull the pin early.

The forecast for today wasn't good. Less rain, but more wind. When we got up, there was some blue sky, and we could see the trees thrashing back and forth against it. Ummmm...

We set of to the east to hook up on the southern part of the German D9 cycle route, aka the Romantic Road. We stumbled upon and rode the northern half of this route at the end of our 2017 European tour and it was marvelous. Perfect trails, gingerbread house villages and bucolic countryside. The southern half gave the promise of the same with the grand finale being Fussen / Hohenschwangau and the fairy tale Schloss Neuschwanstein (that's a mouthful ... think Disney Castle).

This was one of the main places we wanted to visit on this trip, recognising that it is in the same vein as all the folks who show up in Canada and flock to either Niagra Falls or Lake Louise. But everyone does that for a good reason, they are all beautiful places.

Back to this morning. About 3 km east of our pension we come to some major construction on the road we are on. No way to go through so we back track. Into the wind. This was a sign.

We find another bike trail that will connect with the D9. Wet gravel... and into the wind that's blowing at a steady 25 - 30 km/hr. After about an hour we've gone a little over 10 km. Then the rain started.

Scheisse.

At this rate we will get to Fussen at, oh let's say 7 pm, totally thrashed. And the castle and anything else we may want to see will be closed.

Time for plan B. We are about 300 m from a rail line that runs to Fussen. Another 10 km of so of riding will get us to a town with a station where we can get on one.

Forcing Kirsten to continue cycling would be sadistic. Continuing on myself would be masochistic. We're not into that.

As soon as we've made the executive decision to get on a train to Fussen we spot a bakery, and it's about 10 am. In we go for coffee/ tea and cakes and the world starts to look a whole lot better.

We rode on to Kaufering putting in 30 relatively miserable km's today, then it was a nice warm train for the remaining 70 km's to Fussen. Beautiful countryside and the Alps just seem to start immediately upon reaching Fussen.

We made it up to Neuschwastein and got booked in for a 5:45 tour. It's pretty regimented and controlled, being Germany there are also a lot of rules. However, over dinner as we were reflecting on this Kirsten pointed out that all of them are needed to cope with the crush of people they get here. It's clearly low season here now, but there are still lots of tourists. August must be crazy.

It was definitely worth going though. Although there is certainly a Disneyesque feel to the place the setting is truly beautiful and we treated to some spectacular light as the clouds started to clear as the sun was setting.

I'll let the pictures do the rest of the talking. Great dinner at a lively stylish Italian place. Tomorrow it's Austria and the Alps for the next week, and the forecast is looking good (hope this does not continue the 'curse'.)

Song of the Day, You Want It Darker by Leonard Cohen.

This morning when the rain started as we were grinding into the headwind, this song, and the S&M theme popped into my head. It just fit. I will note though that the day ended with rainbows and laughter!

We pulled the pin at Kaufering and boarded the train to Fussen. You can't fight city hall ... or the wind!

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Starting the day outside the our very nice pension in Wehringen. Still fresh. This didn't last long

... fast forward to Schloss Neuschwanstein. Everyone has seen pictures of this, now we get to see it for real. The setting is stunning.

... and a little photographic evidence that I am not always holding a beer!

As we're waiting outside the castle for alloted tour time (I did mention it was very regimented!) it rained a bit. However, we were treated with this magnificent rainbow. We hope that this is our new portent

... the 'waiting gate'. Time the picture right and it looks like we are the only ones there!

incredibly stunning setting. I can see why old Ludwig built this pile here

... since it does have a Disney feel to it, here's a few cartoon themed images

Strolling back to our hotel after dinner, we stumbled across a few very nice sculptures honoring the working trades

I told you the day ended with rainbows and laughter!

who can resist a Bavarian duck armed with a pretzel

our traditional end of the ride bevy ... drinks were accompanied by some traditional Bavarian music ... remember the Shmenge Brothers from SCTV (John Candy and Eugene Levy at their best!)

Today's ride: 30 km (19 miles)
Total: 1,423 km (884 miles)

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Rachael AndersonGreat choice on taking the train. Sorry you’re having such lousy weather. We’ve been very lucky. Today it’s raining but we have a day off the bikes.
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