A spectacular but challenging ride across northern Izu Peninsula
It kind of feels like we have moved in to Dormy Inn. In our travels, we occasionally stay 2 nights, but 3 nights is a luxury. Today the sun is shining, the temperature is mild, Barry feels ready to push on….so that makes it a good day. We just have this pesky mountain to climb, but first we will head south for about 20 km before we turn onto Route 19 to make the climb.
In Japan, Dormy Inn is a good place to stay. We like the free Ramen that the chef makes and serve s every evening in the dining room, the Onsen which provides ice cream and beverages and the good hospitality we enjoy here.
Heading south, we passed this incredible bike store and of course we stopped to check it out. What a great store with incredible bikes and run by this fellow and his wife.
Barry has a frustration with small bike pumps that we take on rides and trips. We have tried more than one kind but none are great for us. We were very intrigued by this miniature, relatively light pump that inflates quickly with an accurate PSI gauge and is made in Japan. We are now the happy owners of one of these pumps.
We stopped at this Lawson’s Konbini and two of the workers had been checking us out and our trikes and finally came out to visit. They were cheering us on for our ride today. When we told them our route they were worried for us.
11 km to go on this road before we turn off on route 19 and the pass. We don’t love this road as there is little shoulder for us and the traffic is heavy. Note the blue painted arrow on the road. This is how we follow the Pacific Coast Cycle Road Route, when they are there. Otherwise we follow on Google Maps.
In Japan, children are taught and encouraged to be independent from a young age. At preschool, two year olds can put on their own shoes, tie them and be an active participant. As well, we see few school buses as kids of all ages walk home with their friends. Here are some older students walking home from school.
We are really enjoying being here in the spring and early summer as strawberries, melons etc are in season. The strawberries have been so good. Every day we buy a pint of strawberries to have with breakfast or just as a yummy snack.
The other huge problem of riding route 19 is that most of the ride (about 25 km) is on a narrow road with no shoulders. There are so many big trucks using this road which is pretty scary. It will be a relief that we will have a 3rd climbing lane as the climbing increases.
Translation…Don’t throw away trash. In Japan, subtlety is valued to make a point rather than threatening messages. The character’s tears encourage you to take this seriously.
Yahoo…we have made it to the pass. Here is hoping that the downhill will be ok. The downhill stretches for about 16 km and takes us to the Pacific Ocean.
As we came around a corner we were shocked to see this ship (formerly a restaurant) positioned right at the road. We screeched to a halt and looked on in wonder. It is clearly abandoned and a rust bucket. We got out to take a look and were surprised to see behind us a temple in the hills. We will investigate.
As we walked towards the Buddhist Temple, Usami Kannon-Ji, we couldn’t believe what we were seeing. Here, in this what feels like an abandoned temple in this out of the way location, sits the largest seated Buddha statue in Japan. It is a compelling sight.
Despite its impressive impact, beautiful buildings and spacious grounds filled with statues, etc, we could see that it was looking neglected and abandoned. No one is around. We read that it is open only on weekends and no one lives here full time.
This temple used to be open every day and was a working temple. We read that it was open only on weekends. However judging from the rot and the decay it appeared that it permanently closed. There is no mention of it on the present map of the city.
We are mystified as to why this Temple is no longer fully functioning. It was originally built to pray for Global Peace. It is a shame as this Temple and its grounds filled with interesting statues is remarkable and unlike anything we have seen in our travels. In researching our route, there was no mention of this Temple.
The view from the temple of Route 19 and the ocean in the distance.
The other mystery for us is how did the ship get here, and why is it positioned at the gate of the Temple. Like the seated Buddha, this ship is visible from a distance.
I love going downhill especially on my trike. However, this descent was so challenging with continual sharp turns, car and truck traffic, little space for us as the extra lane is in place for the ascent and it was very steep. We both agreed that it was preferable to climb and that a downhill like this is harder and more perilous.
This is the sign for Gogo Gorilla Laundry….eyecatching.
We now at the bottom and happy,to see a tunnel. Our ride to our accommodation is just 8 km away but the coast is hilly, so our climbing isn’t over yet. First stop when we get in is the Onsen.
To celebrate our incredible day, we are going to a neighborhood Izakaya for dinner. An Izakaya is a small local eatery with great food and seating for maybe 10 people.
We are enjoying a cold, freshly poured pint of Asahi beer and they brought us a complimentary appetizer to start. Tofu with shrimp, chives, seaweed and a dressing…..delicious.
We are always impressed with how simple items are presented in Japan, like these handmade envelopes to hold your toothpicks. We see so many creative uses of paper crafted into a functional design like small boxes.
The Izakaya had 3 tables and 2 seats at the bar. The couple who own and run this place share duties. He does most of the cooking and she serves. It is a wonderful and intimate way to enjoy locally made food nestled in a neighbourhood.
This friendly painting on the road reminds you to look both ways before crossing. We see these signs often and there are always a pair of cute animals on the sign.
