To Ales, France

June 17, 2025

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It was a bald lie that our room would cool off at night. I was miserably hot. A fan would have made a world of difference, but they didn't have one. I couldn't wait to get out of town this morning. A hiker breakfast was 13 E. We had asked yesterday if it included eggs. Breakfast was served at each table. I noticed that everyone got the same breakfast - bread/croissants and jam, a container of yogurt and one of applesauce. Apple juice. Coffee. That was it. No meat or cheese. We did get hard boiled eggs. I'm glad I asked last night. I asked for four extras, which we received. The breakfast room was packed. There was a group of ten motorcycles (they shared the garage our bikes were parked in), and also several hikers. I read that this area is considered the Grand Canyon of France. I wonder if there is a camino to hike here, or if it is general hiking that draws people. We've seen all sorts of hikers. Lately we've been seeing mostly bicycle tourists, typically couples, and few road cyclists. Almost everyone has Ortlieb panniers.

We were out the door at 9:25. It was reasonably fresh (60 degrees?), but would warm up quickly. It was 89 when we arrived in Ales.

First we were on a big D road with lots of traffic. It was fine, but not what we've been accustomed to. I got behind Jacinto, and then got really behind when we went through some road construction. I had two different workers give me directions that I couldn't understand. So sorry! One man in a van while we were waiting at the flagger said something nice to me out the window (with a big smile). But darned if I know what he said. Language is a handicap here.

I was really trying to catch Jacinto, but we had rolling climbs, which are not my strong point. Then I passed a turn. It said sharp right. I went right! But, no - not this sharp right, the next one.! Jacinto asked me why I get so worked up, just turn around and go down the right road. I told him with my big bike, turning around isn't so easy, plus I'm already behind him, and finding my way makes me even later. He has been waiting for me a distance down the road we turn on. I told him it would be most helpful if he waits at the turn, so I can see where it is. His reply is to keep up. If only it were that simple. To add to our confusion, we thought there was basically one route today, so we didn't check it mile by mile. I downloaded RWGPS, Jacinto went with Komoot. It turns out I had a side trip Jacinto didn't. I climbed up to a little town and back down. Which delayed me more.

Mile 18 was our second moment of confusion. Because I passed the intersection, I saw the col sign. Jacinto did not miss the turn, but missed the sign. Small consolation. From mile 18 to town was wonderful riding. It was a no center line road that was occasionally extremely skinny. We didn't see a single car, which was a good thing. Once we hit the top and started down the other side, it was extremely steep. There was a giant blob (three feet diameter) of cement in the center of the road. I imagined that it was so steep that a cement truck delivering a load had that blob leak out due to the angle of the road. In this area we saw a male rider with a bike packing set up heading up the pass. He was having a much steeper climb. I'm thankful we were headed down. Jacinto stopped once so we could check our brakes. We lost 2,000 feet elevation in 12 miles, but it was almost all twisty turny roads that we could maybe go 5-7 mph.

The Patio Hotel was easy to find. I don't think it's a good part of town. There are weeds in the sidewalk all over, trash in the street, and some graffiti. Jacinto said what did I expect for such a cheap room (90 E).

We had quite an experience at the McDonald's. I wanted something cold and wet. Jacinto replied that our hotel was only .37 miles away. Cold and wet - right now, please! Everyone was ordering at kiosks. I ordered one meal, but couldn't figure out how to order a second one. We went to the counter to order, and the clerk came back and helped us order a second meal. On the kiosk, there was a limit of one ketchup packet per meal. We sat and waited and waited. Finally Jacinto went to the counter with our receipt. We had clicked pay at counter, but never paid. Ugh. There I was wanting something cold and wet, and we could have been in the hotel and showered by now. Plus, they didn't have lemonade, so I had to get a soda pop. I did get ice in my water bottle. That was cold and wet, but long finished before we got our food.

Then there was the misadventure trying to get in the ladies room. Who would think going to McDonald's would be such an experience?

When we got to the hotel, we were offered apple juice at the reception. I said no, Jacinto took it. I wondered later if I was rude. The lady was Muslim. I don't know if that was a factor or not. Our bikes are in the courtyard. Our room is on the third floor. We have AC. It turns on in the hallway, and blows lightly, but it does work. I anticipate sleeping better tonight.

Jacinto has mentioned multiple times already that we are out of the climbing. I've replied every time that wind is going to be a factor for the next few days. Heat will be an issue. We are headed down to see the flamingos and the camargue horses and cows. I believe we are done with the Pyrenees. Next are the Dolomites!

oh - tomorrow we have one route from Komoot. I've already loaded mine to the Coros Dura GPS. I need all of the help I can get, and I still get lost. Side note on our new Coros. They have solar charging. We've been riding almost two weeks. My unit was down to 48% yesterday, so I charged it. I think mine doesn't charge as well as it could, because I have it angled more vertically. Jacinto's is horizontal and catches more sun. There's a learning curve to having a GPS, but over all, I think it's a benefit. If it would only specify that I should take the second sharp right, instead of the first one!

Our departure photo. The rooms on this side of the hotel had doors onto balconies. Possibly they cooled off at night?

My first little stone house for the day.

The first Col of the day. I accidentally passed our turn, and my reward was the Col sign. Jacinto missed it, but made turn just fine.

Jacinto rode right past this col sign and didn’t see it. There were many road signs with arrows and the named Col along the way. It must be notable? From our direction, I had to put the brakes on for the photo. Which makes no sense why a col is on the downhill and not at the top.

There was a tiny path of lavender with all sorts of butterflies. That was my best sight for the day. I would have watched them flutter around for a bit, but I didn’t want to lose Jacinto.

I’m suspicious of too much greenery, especially if ferns are involved. That means it rains often!

We stopped at McDonald’s. It was open! Their cups and French fry containers were of regular plastic and it appeared they were washed and reused. There was a dishpan for those items.

At McDonald’s I can’t enter the bathroom code correctly. My solution was to wait for someone to exit. Jacinto took this photo because he likes the door illustration.

Notice that the in door is skinny, and the out door is much wider. Do people really gain that much weight in one trip to McDonald’s?

Our room is on the third floor, with AC! It’s probably our most basic room of the trip.

From our window, I can see my bike parked in the courtyard. Notice the ceramic granny sitting on the roof.

We did go for a real dinner. I was impressed with the gardening skills. These planters are narrow and line the patio dining area.

Our starter choices were carpaccio (raw beef), or watermelon and cucumber soup. We both went for the soup. The cucumbers were pickled and added a little zip to the soup. There was a scoop of sorbet in the center. Jacinto was not impressed. He said that should be dessert.

Jacinto asked for ice cubes. This is how they were served.

Today's ride: 45 miles (72 km)
Total: 435 miles (700 km)

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Scott AndersonJacinto's right, you're basically out of the mountains now - for the next four or five days anyway, until you start climbing toward the Alps and the Italian border. A couple of corrections on your geography though, just to give you a little more context about southern France.

First, you left the Pyrenees several days ago, really ever since Lagrasse. The mountainous country you've been in ever since Carcassonne is a separate formation that covers most of the middle of southern France, the Central Massif. You're just leaving it now and dropping toward the Rhone River, one of the largest rivers in Western Europe.

And as dramatic as all these gorges are, they're not the Grand Canyon. That's further east in the foothills of the Alps but south of where you'll be going. And it's totally amazing and deserves its reputation in my opinion. We've biked it three times now, but the ride ten years ago on the quieter north rim was the best: https://www.cycleblaze.com/journals/geneva2015/to-castellane-traversing-the-grand-canyon-of-the-verdon/
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1 month ago

Jeff LeeThe difficulty of obtaining ice on demand is one of the main reasons I will never do a bicycle tour in Europe.
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1 month ago

Jacquie GaudetAl and I almost always ride the same route but rarely together unless navigation is tricky, as in through cities and bigger towns. He tells me his policy is to stop and wait in a good spot (shade, lately) if he hasn’t seen me for 5 km. There is no way I can keep up with him and it would drive him crazy to slow down to my speed.

We just started using LiveTrack on our Garmins this year—we’ve had Garmin Edge devices for 12 years. It’s nice; we each get an icon showing where the other is on the map screen. Before that, we used the Apple FindMy app when needed or communicated on WhatsApp (messages show up on the Garmin screen). I expect Wahoo has similar features.
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1 month ago

Kelly IniguezTo Jeff LeeIce can make all of the difference for me on a hot day.
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1 month ago

Kelly IniguezTo Jacquie GaudetI lobbied for the Garmins exactly for the live tracking feature. We ended up with the Coros Dura units for the amazing battery life. We don't typically ride together. I like to leave early to beat the heat. Jacinto likes to get his money's worth out of the room, and leaves when they kick him out. I don't mind navigating on my own in the USA, but I'm too uncertain in Europe. It's a learning curve for both of us, for sure.
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1 month ago

Kelly IniguezTo Scott AndersonThere's nothing wrong with your memory concerning geography! Impressive. Thanks for the detailed clarification.
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1 month ago