Volterra to Massa Marittima

May 9, 2022

Another hilltop town!

We left our very nice (and inexpensive) apartment without breakfast because nothing had been open in Volterra last evening (and stopping for supplies on our way to our accommodation was not on our radar—we just wanted to get somewhere dry). We’ll eat these little packaged pastries and stop for coffee and something else on the way, we thought. We did see a café in Saline de Volterra, at the bottom of the hill, but the only seating was outside in the shade and, at that point, having just done a fast 10 km descent, we wanted sun! So we passed it by. It was the only café we saw all day.

Our apartment included this little garden but it was too wet during our stay. The bikes were stored in the doorway alcove behind Al.

Looking back up to Volterra. With all the moisture in the air,this was as clear as it got.

From Saline de Volterra, we turned onto SR 439 which we could take all the way to Massa Marittima, our goal for the day. But we didn’t. At the base of the hill leading to Pomarance, we turned onto a much smaller road. Steeper too, it turned out, as we climbed up a ridge across a valley from Pomarance to approximately the same elevation. I don’t think SR 439 had grades exceeding 12%. Yes, I did some walking again. But it was both quiet and beautiful until we popped back out on SR 439 again.

At this point we were getting hungry and decided to stop at the first food opportunity we saw. Other than that shaded café, we hadn’t seen anything yet. Then, as we were zooming through Montecerboli, we saw what might have been its only business: a little bakery/deli. The proprietor had no English, we have very little Italian, but he did make us a couple of sandwiches which we ate on a bench outside his shop. We’ll get something more later, we thought.

This area we were passing through seemed very industrial. At first, we thought all the towers were nuclear energy plants but no, it’s geothermal! Or at least it is now.

We turned off SR 439 again and had another scenic route, especially if one ignored the big pipes going every which way and the cooling towers in the distance. We eventually arrived in Lagoni del Sasso where there was, of all things, a brew pub! We were in the middle of the fourth of six climbs so no beer for us, but Al had a coffee and we bought some cold water.

Near Lagoni del Sasso. This hot spring was fenced off with danger warning signs in multiple languages.

A km or so further on, visitors were invited to climb up to this fumarole.

Before we’d even completed the climb, we were back on SR 439 which we now followed almost all the way to Massa Marittima. Almost all the way because SR 439 goes around MM’s hill. Did I mention this is another hilltop town?

I’ve been seeing this sign occasionally since we left Florence but always in a bad place to stop for a photo. Ali’s wondering what I’m doing.

We found and settled into our B&B and we’re glad to see that we beat the rain. There was no rain in today’s forecast but it was threatening for the last couple of hours.

After the rain ended we went for a wander and to have dinner. We ended up in a pleasant restaurant run by a friendly, hardworking couple. The food and service were very good. Massa Marittima has been a pleasant surprise.

In Massa Marittima. What the floral frame is for, I’ve no idea.

First course, giant ravioli. Mine with butter and sage, Al’s with Bolognaise

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Today's ride: 65 km (40 miles)
Total: 241 km (150 miles)

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