La Spezia to Vernazza

May 19, 2022

Are we crazy?

A relatively short but intense ride. We got underway after breakfast and missed a turn early on. As we were discussing how to get back on course (go back a block and make the turn or turn right here and go the wrong way up a one-way street for a block), two local fellows who were nearby asked if we were heading for Cinque Terre. To Vernazza, we said. They then explained that the way we were planning to go was really steep and it would be better to go left here and take the “Litor…” As this conversation was carried out in French and English (me) and Italian (them), it wasn’t until later that I understood that they were telling us to take the “Strada statale 370 Litoeanea delle Cinque Terre.” We thanked them, turned as they suggested, and checked their proposed route when we were out of sight. It made sense, included local knowledge (I’d planned the other way for fear of traffic), so we went with it. It would merge with our planned route at the first high point, just before the first tunnel. I knew about this tunnel, had checked that it was okay for cyclists (and gently downhill in our direction) but until these fellow mentioned “tre gallerias” I didn’t realize there would be two more. Just like yesterday, when I only knew about the longest one.

Riding up SR 370 was just fine. The grade was manageable, the traffic not too bad, and the distance only about 1500 m further.

The cruise ship dwarfs La Spezia harbour (and fouls the air too).

Al waited for me at the top of the climb and we got our light on for the tunnel. We could see straight through to the other end so it didn’t look too long, but that view was deceptive. The Galleria Biassa is 1023 m long!

Once through, we were in the Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre. The road was fairly wide and we descended until the turnoff for Manarola. Then it became narrow and tilted up. And continued up. Finally it started gently descending.

These brown signs do *not* mean you are about to enter the town. This one means there’s something interesting ahead (but there was still a fair bit of climbing until the turnoff for Vernazza).

I found Al waiting for me at the turnoff for Vernazza and then it was down, down, down. I couldn’t help thinking about up, up, up the day after tomorrow and wondering if we could take our bikes on a train or boat. We will see. Riding back up this (realistically, we’d be pushing our bikes) would be crazy.

The road down to Vernazza starts with a switchback below the road we were on.

It’s down there somewhere. From here, where I stopped to admire the view, it was quite a bit more descending. Even though the sign at the turnoff indicated 4.5 km, it felt like further. Concentration was required.

Vernazza’s main street was solid with people from the train station down. We were already walking our bikes as there had been a sign instructing cyclists to do so a bit uphill from there, at a spot where we actually saw another cyclist and who pointed it out to me. Although we had seen several other cyclists on SR 370, he was the only one we’d seen since we left it. I wondered if he was riding back up, but he was on a light road bike.

We connected with Barbara, our host, and settled into our apartment for the next two nights. Only two because this is the most expensive accommodation on this trip! But it’s a very nice apartment and quiet, though it’s just steps from Piazza Guglielmo Marconi and the beach and port.

After cleaning up, we ventured out for lunch (sandwiches eaten on a bench at the port) and an explore. It was hot and muggy so we didn’t go far, deciding to postpone any hiking until tomorrow. After a short nap, we went for a swim and then for dinner followed by an early night.

Poster in the train station. We saw several cyclists on the main road but only one other in Vernazza (and there’s no way to know if he rode there or came on the train). We learned later that bikes are free on trains in Liguria.

View from the coastal trail to Coniglia. We only walked as far as the ticket booth. It was too hot for us to consider walking all the way there.

Image not found :( — Drying our laundry the Italian way. We noticed other tourists taking photos of our laundry!

We enjoyed the wine our host left for us.

Heart

Comment

Link

Keith AdamsNow THAT route looks like a scribble!
Reply to this comment
1 year ago

Jacquie GaudetTo Keith AdamsAt walking pace! If only I could show a 3-dimensional version.
Reply to this comment
1 year ago

Today's ride: 26 km (16 miles)
Total: 703 km (437 miles)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	11
Comment on this entry	Comment	5

Scott AndersonI can’t believe you biked to Vernazza, and with loaded bikes! Impressive, but I’d take a hike and take the train out.
Reply to this comment
1 year ago

Jacquie GaudetTo Scott AndersonWe are a little crazy, but not crazy enough to ride, I mean hike-a-bike, back up. We will take the train to Levanto tomorrow and ride from there.
Reply to this comment
1 year ago

Margie AndersonThis is all very impressive Jacquie!
Margie
Reply to this comment
1 year ago

Jacquie GaudetTo Margie AndersonThe descent? I was glad to have hydraulic disc brakes and I hope I still have brake pad left. They were fresh before we left home.
Reply to this comment
1 year ago

Margie AndersonNot just the descent, the whole darn trip! Well done!! M.
Reply to this comment
1 year ago